I have an 06 Silverado Crew 4WD 5.3L. The issue is, if its daylight no issue. Dark, photo turns on the headlights, the cruise don't work. If you use the master switch during the day, it somehow knocks out the cruise. So day time= cruise works, night= no cruise, use the master switch in the day to turn headlights on= no cruise. Only have crusie if its light out, havent touched the master switch. Dark time or touch that switch its curtains for the cruise. My understanding this issue is like their intermediate shaft clunk, its in 1000's of their vehicles. A guy at work has an 04 Sierra LB 4.3, same issue. My 06 Suburban does not have this issue. Any tips, or info is appreciated.
Im not locked in as far as oil? Suggestions, I have used all major brands and didnt think Mobil was a fufu oil. Its literally within $2 of all other major Dexos approved oils in my town. I have followed GM's BS advice after seeing what you wrote. I use the oli life monitor, they claim that is fine. I used to do every 3,****** religiously. Any input?
Ok, Well everyone seems to agree my pressure is good at op temp with 217,****** mi. I use seafoam as a rinse. I use mobil 1, everyone has an opinion on it, lotta ppl say its bad. What is good oil then, I aint running royal purple. I guess I am just going to leave it, change oil, clean air filter and hope for the best.
I have a 2006 Suburban 1500 4WD Lt. is not lifted. All OEM, no add on's. I noticed a sound radiating from the driver-side yesterday ( FRONT Driver side). I was in 4 "Auto". My impression is 4 Auto, you can drive in this mode without damage, the system activates when it detects rear wheel slippage and engages the front drive. We have roads here that are mostly snow covered. I had it in 4 Auto, the sound was a low slight rumble sound. ( Best I can describe like when a Wheel bearing goes bad and running out of grease driving straight). I hit 2 WD, the sound goes away, pressed 4 HI, the sound returns. No noise turning, if I accelerate, the noise increases, decel- same, noise fades. I can feel it through the steering very slight. Its more audible...Whats the chances its a WB? I replaced one when I bought the vehicle but I think it was front. pass. side. Weird its in 4 Auto when the drive isn't engaged? Any ideas, I am open to anywhere to start, I was going to jack it up, loosen hub nut, do the 6 and 12 shake, 9 and 3 shake, try to determine bad WB first. I feel its not the WB because the 4 WD has to be on to hear it. I will take any solid advice. Thank you all
I have a 2006 Suburban 1500 4WD Lt. is not lifted. All OEM, no add on's. I noticed a sound radiating from the driver-side yesterday ( FRONT Driver side). I was in 4 "Auto". My impression is 4 Auto, you can drive in this mode without damage, the system activates when it detects rear wheel slippage and engages the front drive. We have roads here that are mostly snow covered. I had it in 4 Auto, the sound was a low slight rumble sound. ( Best I can describe like when a Wheel bearing goes bad and running out of grease driving straight). I hit 2 WD, the sound goes away, pressed 4 HI, the sound returns. No noise turning, if I accelerate, the noise increases, decel- same, noise fades. I can feel it through the steering very slight. Its more audible...Whats the chances its a WB? I replaced one when I bought the vehicle but I think it was front. pass. side. Weird its in 4 Auto when the drive isn't engaged? Any ideas, I am open to anywhere to start, I was going to jack it up, loosen hub nut, do the 6 and 12 shake, 9 and 3 shake, try to determine bad WB first. I feel its not the WB because the 4 WD has to be on to hear it. I will take any solid advice. Thank you all.
Ok, the truck says 5/30 I'm sure you know that. I use 5/30, I also run usually a fram or Wix. TG3506 Fram, I use Mobil 1 full syn. I have started using a 1/2 Qt. Lucas oil stabilizer ( standard white bottle). I know when I first started driving I ran 10/30 in everything I owned. As I got older I followed the cap. 5/30 seems pretty thin to me, I know govt. wants more mileage so 5/30 is supposed to pump easier like the whole 0/W20 thing. Is if ok in an 06 to try 10/30 for an oil change? I don't want to tax the system and mess anything up trying to pump thicker oil around. If 10/30 is ok, should I avoid the Lucas in that oil change too? I don't want to go experimenting and mess up something. I do use 5 oz of seafoam every oil change. Typical per directions, pour in amount based on oil (qt's) 5-6 oz, run to op. temp, (Do not drive). Shut off drain. I like seafoam. I use it to clean instead of motor medic or trans fluid. Let me know what you think. Maybe I am just worrying too much. I will here in the next month drop the diff in the suburban and redo the pump and the dip tube seal. I think it couldnt hurt with 217,****** mi. My driving pressure is good, I feel it could be higher at op. temp at idle than 27.5 lbs. thought about high vol. pump, don't want to mess up tho. read recently about difference in high pressure, high vol. High vol seemed way to go, thoughts on that? If it's trouble, I def. wont do it, I'll use standard melling replacement. Thank you again, Bigvern.
ok David, this is where I am confused by the charts/ manual. On the above, it looks to me idle in my vehicle is around 750 rpm's. So it runs at lowest 27.5 lbs at idle (750) rpm at op. temp. I am not sure how to use the above scale unless I am driving? I am what I would call a little more advanced than a weekend mechanic or oil changer. I hope this post makes sense. I am not sure how those numbers work for me? Thanks in advance.
I have two GM's. 06 Silverado Crew 4 WD 5.3L LT model FFV 194,000 mi. 06 Suburban 4WD 5.3L FFV 217,****** mi. Suburban runs 27.5 - 30lbs oil pressure OP. temp (in drive) Foot on brake- Not driving Silverado runs 38-40lbs op temp (in drive.) Foot on brake- Not driving I wanted some input if these are acceptable or the oil pump needs replaced? I don't like the Suburbans oil pressure but if its good I can live with it. I feel like I should be able to get 325,****** mi out of the Burban. The Silverado's pressure is more what I would like to see. I wanted to some input if these are OK. 27.5lbs. in gear warm seems low. I don't think these are AFM engines. I had a problem with one of those. I don't want excessive bearing wear, I am trying to get into the 300's as far as miles go on both of my vehicles, thanks in advance. I know a lot of ppl put n here their truck has many miles and runs 45psi warm in gear and off the charts on the gas, that is what is making me ask.. are both my Silverado and Suburban too low? I found a blurb from www.carautoportal.com that says a 5.3L in good working order will run 20psi to 30 psi warm in idle condition ( guessing not in gear Loaded) and 45 psi to 75 psi driving.
It was the ebcm and mod valve. They installed it. The DIC doesn't say "Driver Stability" anymore and the ABS light is off. The combo was new, unused. Tech has notes today that the piston in each side (one of the two) per side is the problem. So would this still give me the sound from the master cylinder on the firewall? I think if the pistons seized or slow moving the fluid woulddnt return right hence the sound? Any help is appreciated! I bought the calipers and have to install them with new hoses. Let me know what you all think.
So, how do account for the dtc and the abs not working before?? We replace the modulator valve, code goes away, DIC doesn't say "Driver stability " dealer explicitly and expressly says what's wrong, all I do is supply the same part he has....Abs modulator wouldn't power up before. Do I need to explain it again?. Bottomline, abs wouldn't pulse pistons (wheels). DIC gave "Diver Stability ". Brakes worked fine, except all the code BS. Pedal was stiff, funny ASE guy says GM recommends replacement of all fluid. That's the only thing in two trios that wasn't done???? Anyone think rust or something small like dirt full into system and is impedance to abs modulator? I don't want a bunch of " you did this", the vehicle had a problem, the dealer has a $10,xxx machine that said modulator valve and EBCM. I did bot but the actual labor myself. Is it possible a hack did half ass work?
I have an 06 GMC Yukon XL 1500 2wd. I took it to the dealer on 2/22/16. No issues with my brakes except DIC on dash says "service stability". They scan it, " Hey dude, you need a new ABS modulator valve" service guy says. No problem, they let me buy it $400 cheaper than they have it. I cross reference it to make sure it's right part, it is. Take it to them, they install it. Now my pedals soft, goes almost to the floor. Take it back, 3 bleeds later pedals solid no, not as much as before. I have a noise when I let off brake by firewall that's coming from "I believe the master cylinder". They say they don't know why the pedals soft and it feels like my front brakes " stick" for about 5 seconds when pedals released and MC on firewalls making a noise. Noise stops, front brakes aren't hanging up, vehicle moves. The dealer says well" we will need more $ and time to figure it out". Wtf, all worked fine, they replace the part that they diagnosed bad, brakes hang up, pedal slow to return to start position and master cylinder making a weird noise while front brakes hang up briefly (5sec). Any help would?be GREAT!!!! I noticed they didn't evacuate all old fluid and replace with new. My brother thinks one of the pistons in the ABS mod may be have some dirt or something impeding it from operating the front wheel properly that's probably why it hangs up and MC makes weird noise. MC is waiting for fluid or pressure at wheel to return? Hope someone can help. Thanks!!!
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