Thanks for your response. I, too, suspect bearing/hub/ABS sensor intermittent failure. I've ordered new hub assemblies and will replace both this week along with left front caliper, rotor and pads (they're due - 160K on the clock). Unfortunately, my Actron scan tool doesn't read CXXXX codes, so I'm gonna replace everything except brake lines and ABS control module. Winter road salt is a be-atch. Nice El Camino BTW.
2006 GMC Canyon SLE Crew Cab, 4WD. Right front brake was sticking causing premature pad and rotor wear with low, spongy pedal. No ABS problems noticed. Disassembled the brake and hub, replaced pads and rotors, test drove, and all seemed fine. After 20 minutes of driving, ABS and Brake warning lights illuminated, and right front brake started dragging and burning/smoking. Replaced caliper (piston and caliper pin sticking), bled brake, and tested. ABS and Brake warning lights went out, and all seemed fine. 20 minuted later, after backing up from a post office stop, ABS light re-illuminated (no Brake warning light). Haven't started diagnosing yet (started raining and didn't feel like getting wet). I have a new rotor and pads for the left front, but I want to determine which wheel is tripping the ABS Fault light. Any suggestions on how to proceed from here? Thanks in advance.
I decided to be a good doobie and change the spark plugs on my 06 Canyon 4wd crew cab with the 3.5L 5 cylinder and 150K miles. Cylinders 2, 3, and 4 all had oil in the cavities below the coil packs. Has anyone else noticed this problem? If so, what did you find as the source for the leaks, and how did you correct it?
Driver's leather seat "bun warmer" on my 06 Canyon failed a couple years ago. Passenger side works fine. Haven't bothered with it since wife still stays warm. Me? I don't really mind - got me some extra padding on the backside to offset the cold.
My 06 Canyon 4WD SLE Crew Cab has 150K on it. Had a head oil/coolant mixing problem at 30K, but the head replacement was totally covered under a TSB. I'm now on my third power steering rack - original failed (seal leakage) at 80K, replacement failed (seal leakage) at 140K, new one installed at 145K with addition of a filter on pump return line. Hopefully I can get a decent life out of this one. Other than those problems, it's been a great truck.
Well, after yesterday's failure, I went to a trusted shop to schedule the rack replacement. The owner (a really good guy) looked up the process on Alldata and told me that on a 4WD Canyon or Colorado, you have to support the front axle carrier and unbolt the driver's side axle bracket from the frame. Then, shift the bracket position forward to give enough clearance for the old rack to slide out. So, if anyone else tries this repair, keep this tidbit in mind, and you won't go through the hassle that I did.
Sooooo, has anyone tried replacing the power steering rack in a 4WD Canyon or Colorado? Today, a friend and I tried to do just that in my 06 Canyon SLE 4WD Crew Cab. It took less than an hour to disconnect everything from the old rack. Then, we tried for over four hours to get the old rack out with no success. It appears that part of the front suspension and/or the transfer case and front axle have to be removed in order to slide out the old rack. Ended up re-connecting the old rack. Any ideas anyone?
My '06 Canyon 3.5l had a similar problem a few years ago. Turns out there was a known head problem allowing coolant/oil cross contamination. Check with your dealer because mine was completely covered under a Technical Service Bulletin. They replaced the head, flushed both the oil and coolant systems, and it has been fine ever since. Good luck.
I have replaced the rack and pinion in my '06 Canyon SLE Crew Cab 3.5L with Z71 option. It's been only three years since the replacement, and the rack and pinion is leaking again. Has anyone else experienced this type of problem?
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