AFournier

I just installed a set of the 674-495 and 674-496 on my 2017 L83 motor, and they were thicker than factory GM manifolds that I pulled out. Much heavier. The exhaust ports looked smaller. Are these better, worse, equivalent to factory manifolds? I also installed all new Walker exhaust system including new y-pipe catalytic exhaust system. The truck sounds "throatier" at startup and seems overall just a touch louder (which I like!), not sure why as it's all supposed to be equivalent to OEM. There is no flapper on the Walker system. I do get V4 drone now. I also replaced the motor mounts with AFP mounts, which vibrates more at idle - like a schoolbus - but I don't mind that either. Anyhow, just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the Dorman manifolds! Cheers!

(Apologies for the multiple post - my other one was posted in the wrong year) Alright this is a long one so I'm trying to keep it brief in point form in hopes that there's a mechanic out there that can point me in the right direction: 2016 Silverado True North Edition - Z71 5.3 crew cab with 6.5' bed - bought new - no accidents or odd events like floods that I can recall. 60,000km starter failed 125,000 battery failed and replaced 150,000 second battery failed and replaced (was told had a bad cell) 140,000km Running tail light out - can't figure this one out - bad harness somewhere - possibly due to truck cap installation using "splice" connector when truck was new 150,000 second battery failed and replaced (was told had a bad cell) 150,000km AC control button LED light out on feet+window defog button 155,000km transmission failed and rebuilt by Mr Transmission - a shop that does these weekly 155,000km after transmission rebuild I got multiple codes - had to replace O2 sensor 165,000km trump went in to limp mode and then it went away the next day 170,000km P0420 codes - exhaust definitely smells stronger now so this may be unrelated 175,000km P2101 + P0420 - started up yesterday and super rough idle - "Reduced Engine Power" on dash - turned off, cleared codes and went away. Now the P0420 comes on more frequently as I'm driving on the highway. 175,000km transmission has been acting up since rebuild - has been in shop over 45 days in past year - torque converter replaced again - TEKM board replaced multiple times - programming has been altered - solenoids replaced multiple times - shift reset adapt done over 5 times - multiple symptoms persist: shifting erradically "bumping" when slow acceleration at 70km/hr - 90km/hr+ - shifting hard and "lunging forward" at 15km/hr going slowly downhill - and generally shift hard (might be due to "shift kit" they installed as they've told me. Battery tested this morning and reading consistent 14.30-14.5 V after idling for 5 minutes. Is this the only way to test the alternator or is there something else I can test for? Is it possible that I'm just having bad luck and none of this is related?

I live in a big city and we've got speed bumps and pot holes everywhere. The ride is currently jarring. I occasionally offroad. I'd like a new 2" lift strut + coil combo, with matching rear shock. The choices are endless and I have no idea what to get for a smooth ride. I don't want anything adjustable. Any recommendations? *I currently have Bilstein 6100 and they were nice and smooth for exactly 1 month, and after that they got really stiff and uncomfortable like my old stock Ranchos.

My truck suddenly gave me a stabilitrack error, check engine light, shift indicator stopped indicating which gear, backup camera stopped working, engine seems to be in limp mode. I had the transmission rebuilt 10,000km ago and they had difficulty with it. An O2 sensor went back. Truck has 155,000kms. Change spark plug #5? Not sure what this could be.

When the taillights are on at night (headlights on), they don't illuminate on the driver side. I changed the bulbs out and that didn't work. I figured it must be the wiring harness so I changed that out today. Still not working. The brake lights work just fine. It's the night-time taillights that don't illuminate. I checked the fuse box but didn't see any blown fuses. But if I knew which fuse to change out I would just replace that. Anyone have any ideas which fuse this is, and also what the problem might be if it's not the fuse?

Yessir they had to replace the TECHM and have a programmer who came in the shop to program it.

Just had a full rebuild on a 2017 - they took a 2016 core and swapped out with my 2017 6L80. They gave it the works - shift kit, billet torque converter, new TECHM, etc.Now have 14 engine codes (saw mechanic plug computer in). I don't know what the codes are. Just wondering if anyone has any experience or insight - ie. is the ECM fried? What could cause so many codes to go off? They let me drive it home and want me to drive for a few hours and bring it back in but I'm wondering if anyone has any other advice. Thanks if advance.

Ok so I'm getting faulty oil level signals on the dash display. First thing I'd like to do is unplug and plug it back in. If I still get the message, I'll order part number 12639127. Problem now is that I don't know how to unplug this thing, or to remove it. I don't see any nuts or screws. Looks like a circlip. I've attached a picture that shows the sensor in question (hope that's the one). There is a red tab on top that slides back and forth. I'm guessing that sliding it out is the first step. Then I don't know what to do from here. Any tips appreciated! Cheers, Alex

Does anyone have any knowledge on the performance of a 116 load index vs 122 on a winter tire? I can get a 116 load index tire for much less than a 122 in the same brand, model & size. I can imagine there is a reason why it's so much cheaper, and wonder how performance will be affected. I have a 2017 1500 CC that is always carrying 1000lbs+ of tools and the roads are rough here in Vancouver Canada. Potholes and cracks all over. There doesn't seem to be much info on this particular subject, on such a subtle difference in a tire's load index. My best guess is that a 116 tire will "sag" or look flatter more than a 122 load index, as it's rated 600lbs less than the 122.

Hey everyone, I need some help figuring out what to do with my truck: 2017 Z71 CC 90,000km Installed Airlift 5000 at rear last year Front end now looks stupid low, and front suspension feels dead. Rear suspension feels just fine now with the air bags. It seems like the 5100 will be the best bang for my buck. Should I install a full kit on all 4 corners, with new coils up front? Can I just get away with installing the 5100 up front?