GrumpyGhost

Something else I never shared is that I have halfway started putting blue led lights in my interior lights, I did the window switches but I couldn't get my camera to focus on them for a good picture. anyhow I think im going to order some more Leds and slowly work on making my interior lights blue. I'm also going to replace the ones currently in the speedo as they were super cheap ones and now they occasionally flicker on and off, I think they get too hot and go out, then they magically come back on. They are fickle, but it hasn't bothered me much until recently I spend an awful lot of time in my truck driving for work these days and all the little crap that never bothered me while I was in college are starting to eat away at me. I used my truck to drive pretty much back and fourth from home during college, so i didn't spend the time in it that I do now. Don't get me wrong, I took care of this truck, but I never planned on keeping it this long, so now I'm just trying to make it more to my liking since I'll probably never get rid of it. Also I have Cheap HIDs 10,000k in my low beam headlights and my fog lights. Which the dogs lights I just fixed like 2 years ago, before that they didn't even work for like 4 years prior. They are the original fogs lights that came with the truck, the lens fell out on them and burnt up the bulbs. I decided I wanted fog lights after my friend got a light bar on his truck. So I figured I'd just install Hids and they're be just as bright as his light bar. Long story short, I removed the fog lights from truck, washed them, spray painted the long gone chrome reflectors with a chrome like paint. And bought some silicone and acrylic sheeting for $20 bucks. Cut out the acrylic and siliconed them into the housings and 2 years later they still haven't gotten condensation or fallen off the truck. Also my lights ended up being brighter than my buddies light bar. So I saved like $200 and just used what I had and got better results. The hid kit was cheaper than buying new halogens too. As for the trailer brake controller, I decided I'm not towing the trailer with my truck anymore unless absolutely needed, I have drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads, my stopping power sucks even if I do add a controller, I need to swap my pads over to semi metallic and get air bags for the leaf springs as the trailer makes my truck sit ugly because it's leveled. Also need bigger rims so I can go to pull a part and get some bigger front cailpers from an 05 or newer truck. I just can't justify it right now when I have pretty much brand new tires, and a full front end rebuild in the trucks future, I'm also gunna swap over to electric fans and bigger radiator. My next post will probably either be about more led lights, or I ordered new knock sensors as I still have the originals sitting in mine, also new intake gaskets and spark plugs and wires. Sorry for the essays, been awhile for me, but I'm slowly getting to the goal of junkyard turboing Grumpy. Just gotta get everything else right before I go and throw some power at her. Plus you know even a junkyard turbo setup is more money than I should spend on a almost 200k engine. Knock on wood I can't believe my trans is doing so good still. I need to drain it here soon and add bigger cooler. So much to do, no time or money to do it all at once. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So I decided to test a theory I've had tonight, my door locks no longer will lock with the power locks, so for last few years ive had to lock my truck manually. They did still have enough juice to unlock so it didn't bother me to much. In order to replace the door lock actuator with a vehicle that has vats, keyless entry, and so on, you have to replace the entire door latch assembly which costs like $200! Crazy!! I decided that there has to be a way to just swap out the motor as it is only thing wrong with my current ones and i wanted to try just buying a cheap door lock actuator from Amazon for $30. I took tons of photos but I can only post 9 at a time so I skimmed them down to major parts of the parts swap. Basically I broke open the original door lock actuator after removing the door panel and entire door latch assembly from my truck to remove the locking mechanism from the latch. In the photos the original part is all black and the new one I bought has a white motor. The only thing I had to do was remove the top covers from both door lock actuators and swap them over. But I ran into a snag. There is a sensor that is plastic welded onto the outside that is for unlocking the door with a key and not setting off the alarm. Also I should note I only did this on the passenger side as a test. My thinking was that if it works I won't have to reach over to lock the door anymore before exiting my truck. To remove the sensor from the old actuator cover I grabbed my soldering iron and melted the plastic. Then I saw there were no holes for the sensors connectors to go through on the new cover, so I melted some holes with the soldering iron and made it work. Then broke off some plastic from old actuator and melted the sensor onto the new cover. I then hot glued the new cover onto the original actuator mechanism followed by some melting of corners with soldering iron for good measure. I bolted it back into the door latch mechanism and reinstalled. So in my very messy late night essay of a write up I did here, the outcome was only halfway successful. The door lock functions great with the key fob, and I can definitely tell it has plenty of power as my driver side door lock actuator sounds tired compared to the new one. The only problem I ran into is that I still have to lock the dang door manually because I've had an issue where my truck thinks a door is open and automatically unlocks the doors if I push the lock button with key fob. My interior lights are also on constantly and I've just been using the dome override for about 5 years now ha-ha. Basically if you want to save $170 dollars, buy the crap cheap door lock actuator and swap over the new motor to the old mechanism. Now I just have to get my wiring issue figured out so I can lock my truck with the key fob. Also still need to order the driver side and do the same mod. This was easier than you think, it took me a couple hours but I didn't have a back up and if I broke something, it would have been very hard to close my door lol I seen other people cut off the door ajar part and superglue it onto the new lock door actuator, but I didn't like that idea and have never seen someone do it the way I just did. Also I may have to buy a new door latch assembly for my driver side anyhow as I'm pretty sure it is the one causing my interior lights to stay on, as I said before, the driver door was almost ripped off the truck and I dragged it along before actually fixing it and I'm pretty sure it wore out or broke the mechanism. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Anyone have a recommendation for a brake controller for my truck, I pull this trailer maybe once or twice a week and my stock disc brakes don't do to well with it. I know the newer 2005 front cailpers are in this trucks future, but not until I invest in new rims and tires. The trailer has electric brakes that have never been used since new. They looked in good condition when I had to replace the wheel bearings a couple months back. I have tons of tread and really don't want to invest in rims and wheels yet. I found some sweet tow mirrors on Amazon but I'm honestly not to fond of the tow mirror look and blind spots they create, but backing this trailer up with these tear drop mirrors is more of a pain then having big ugly ears on Grumpy. I'm Also considering buying an Android double din touch screen radio, it will involve some modding of interior dash but I think it's doable since this truck only supports single din radios. Idk though because I can also just buy a mount for my tablet which has 4g and use it through the Bluetooth on my current aftermarket radio. As for the vinyl wrap, I cancelled the order because right across the street from my shop is a wrapping business, actually it is the building behind the trailer in the photo. They said they could do what I want for about $600 or so. I'll probably go that route in the end as I'm sure I can do it, but I don't really have the time for it. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Better shot of what the truck looks like currently Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Painted my front bumper and side mirrors! See photos! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Painted my rims! Took about 4 hours. Idk if I like them yet, thinking I should have maybe went with matte black. Too late now though! See photos! Cheers! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Nothing much has been going on with truck lately, I did get around to replacing the rear ujoint with a Moog brand one. My vibration came back and that when I noticed the half of a fix job I did on the rear joint was the cause. Anyhow all weird vibrations are gone in the truck. I also changed my oil and rolled over 190,000 miles. On another note I did notice that one of my spark plugs wires was rubbing against my steering linkage and almost ate through the coating, I have noticed a weird noise occasionally and I'm wondering if the truck was/ is miss firing. I'll put my scanner on it this weekend and check it, it is probably coming on on needing new plugs and wires, last time I did them the truck had 116,000 miles on it. Yes I got photos this time! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Oh and as for an update on the vinyl wrap, I've decided to go with carbon fiber and will be doing the roof and about half way down the sides of the truck. I will be installing it myself and have it ordered but it's back ordered. I didn't buy it on Amazon as I didn't want to risk getting a second hand crap that I read in a lot of reviews. Ordered 3m brand. I went with carbon fiber look because well, I don't see any other trucks roaming around with it. I see a lot of 2 tone trucks but never black carbon fiber. I may end up doing the hood as well, but not right now. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Finally got a chance to work on the ujoints for Ol' Grumpy. She Shure did put up a fight with me this evening. I went and rented a ball joint c clamp/press from O'Reilly's. No photos cause I was pissed most of the evening. I started with the front ujoint by the transmission figuring it would be the hardest so get it out of the way. The old ujoint came out with a bit of muscling and the new one went in almost seamlessly. Except for one bearing that decided to fall inside of the ujoint and I didn't notice it until I heard it pop while pressing it in. Broke one bearing! I checked them and put grease on them so they wouldn't do what they did. So as a quick fix I pulled off a cap from the other new ujoint and problem fixed. Then I broke the grease zirt and had to drill it out and replace with the one from the now spare parts new ujoint. So 2 hours into it now! Did I mention it's hot in Florida yet! Anyhow I ran to O'Reilly's and bought one of their cheap $10 ujoint for the rear. Of course it didn't fit so I decided for now I'll just replace the caps that have to be bolted down And pressed back in the old ujoint. I threw some grease in the caps and called it good for now. Now for the best part! I was in such a hurry cause I spent my entire evening doing a "quick job" that I forgot to put in the c clips that go inside of the caps. I take it for a test ride and my vibration it is completely gone. Clean up the shop and head for home. I got about halfway home when I hear a big pop and a major vibration. That's right, the rear ujoint caps popped off!. Its dark now, I left my tools in the shop. So I pull off to the side off the road to see the damage. One cap was gone and the other was still stuck inside which is the only reason I could move the truck to side of the road. To my amazement, it didn't damage anything, driveshaft didn't fall out or anything, just missing the one cap. I happened to have the size 11 wrench to pull off the hold down clamps for the caps and the spare parts new ujoint. So I pulled the other two caps off of the ujoint that is the wrong size cause and installed the c clips with my crappy emergency wrench on the side of the road. I drove home with no issues and am considering leaving it alone!! I probably won't cause I need my truck for work, but I'm tired of these stupid ujoints! Fun times living in Paradise!! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I use Tapatalk on my android phone, it'll host all the photos you want. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Put a new badge on Grumpy Today! #yukongear&axle First new sticker since I tore all the old ones off when I started the resto. Also worked on getting the 18 year old 3m adhesive from the old side trim off. I finished the passenger side, but still have to finish the driver side. I just used my fingers and gave up because they started hurting. I can see lines and will have to get some goo gone and a quick buff to get a clean finish. Truck needs a wash as well. Still haven't got around to replacing the ujoints, but I also haven't driven the truck for the past few days either. I'm getting antsy to paint the front bumper and rims black to finish the black on green look I'm going for. I'm also looking into getting some black vinyl wrap to put on the roof and top half of the truck. Basically stop the line with the bottom of the windows. My clear coat is starting to peel on the roof and it won't get any better being in the Flordia sun. Will also hide my fresh paint lines much better. So stay tuned for that! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

More photos, the old spider gears look okay from afar, but if you zoom in, you can scarring which is why I replaced them. I need to invest in a toolbox, one pic is a pile of most of my tools, doesn't look like much, but I jam a bunch of crap into those tool bags. I also have lots of air tools, but Don't have a good compressor to run them yet. I also put in all new seals, again! Lesson here is I should have just invested in new parts when I had the rear diff open the first time. Only cost me like $150 in diff oil when I add all the times I'll filled it up now. I did take photos of the diff being open, but they were all dark so I only included one. I was going to get some high heat spray paint and paint the brake calipers, but I forgot, was also gunna paint the rims, but again, it was hot!! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Well, I had a half day today so I decided to tackle my rear diff today. Took me about 4 hours to do, but only because I had to run and get diff oil. Totally forgot to buy some when I got the tools from O'Reilly's. It really wasn't too bad of a job, just sucks having to lay on my back. Really missing the car lift. Also it was 90°f and the real feel was like 101°f. Brutal!! I didn't get the bearing and seal driver tool set. Instead I used a giant screw pulley puller that was used one time because it only works on Polaris forewheelers. I use it as a punch for a lot of things, its come in handy many times and I keep it in my tool bag always. The new Yukon spider gears fit great and I could definitely tell they had less play than the original spider gears. I could have probably keep my original spider gears, but I don't want to open the diff ever again. I ordered ujoints for the driveshaft but my vise isn't big enough to do the job. I did find that the front ujoint is bad and the cause of my vibration issue. I decided to spin the driveshaft 180° to see if it would change anything, now the ujoint is squeaking badly. Tomorrow I will be going to rent a ball joint c clamp to replace the ujoint. My clanking noise is gone however! The old axle bearings still looked fine to me but as soon as I put the axle shaft into the new ones, I could tell a major difference in shaft play. No pun intended lol. Sorry my photos suck, it was hot, my hands were very greasy, and it started to rain and i lost the sun for good lighting. Oh yeah, and check out my new quiet exhaust that I absolutely hate. It's not quite as quiet as a stock exhaust, but I can't really hear it, I'm thinking of ordering a mbrp black exhaust tip to see if it adds any sound, at least make it look better. As always, keep calm, time to party!! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Just waiting on the wheel bearings, haven't driven truck in a couple days. Will try and tackle this project Saturday morning pending a hangover lol Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I decided that it has to be my passenger side wheel bearing that is making the noise. I'm guessing a piece of the bearing came off and is now rattling around in the housing. Also explains why it seems the noise moves location. It won't go into my ring and pinion part of the housing because the spider gear is keeping it sealed in the actual axle part of the housing. Did I feel or spot anything wrong with the bearing when I had the axle out, not at all, but I didn't take the time to look down into the housing either. Even if this ends up not being the issue, it is still a good idea for a truck with 190,000 miles. Anyhow, I just ordered a new spider gear set from Yukon axle, new axle bearings, and seals, and new u joints for my driveshaft. All from Amazon for $210. I'm going to rent the tools from O'Reilly's auto parts, I couldn't justify buying all the tools for what will probably be the one time I use most of them. Like $250 worth of tools to do this job. Anyhow, won't have time to do it until next weekend, but I will be sure to take pictures. Yeah I'm still gunna drive the truck, just not gunna put any weight in it. If I have to replace an axle, that's my burden to bear. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Update: sorry didn't take photos! I got some tools from a few new friends and pulled my rear end apart. Kinda sorta. I dropped the driveshaft, drained the fluid, and took off the cover. Low and behold everything looked exactly the same as when I cleaned up the rear diff a few months ago. I went ahead and took of the wheels and brakes, removed the 8 mm bolt and took out the carrier pin and pulled the axles. Everything looked in tip top shape besides a few scared "spider gears?" Which were that way the last time I had it apart (Correct me if I'm wrong on the name). The fluid was still pretty clean as it was just replaced a few months back and the magnet only had minimal metal "dust". Nothing seemed suspicious. Anyhow all looked well, so I put it back together and left the diff cover off and hooked the driveshaft back up. Started the truck and put in gear while truck was on jack stands. Still heard the popping noise but it wasn't coming from the rear end like I had previously thought. So I buttoned up the rear end with new fluid and took for another test drive. It sounds like a piece of metal is stuck in something and bounces up and down while driving, it only makes noise when driveshaft is moving. So I decided to see if I still had 4 wheel drive thinking perhaps the chain broke on the transfer case or something or anything at this point. Everything is all good there as well. Also there is nothing in the rear brakes or inside the ebrake disc hat or any missing parts. I'm at a loss for what is making this noise. I decided to go for a ride and see if I could "shake loose the noise". Now the popping noise only occurs occasionally or if I hit a bump just right or take off just a bit faster than normal, but it soon goes away. Also the axle bearings looked fine, axles didn't budge when put back on, my pinion nut and driveshaft yoke were tight, for both sides of driveshaft. I'm at a loss here. So now that the noise is intermittent, I'm just gunna drive the truck till either it goes away completely or something break's, I can't pinpoint where the noise is coming from exactly, but my only other guess would be my transmission. I'm saving money to invest in a new one anyhow, but a 4l80e swap is not so easy for me to do with my current situation. I really wanted to do the front end first, maybe even get rid of the crappy rough country lift. It's an okay leveling kit, but really stresses out my suspension. Im thinking of doing a readylift 4 inch lift. Also would like to get some more tools and equipment before I do any transmission or engine work. All this work and I still didn't change my oil! I'm just gunna take it somewhere tomorrow for an oil change, and maybe "talk with the mechanics to see if they have any ideas for the noise" lol As always, sorry for being so long-winded. If any of y'all have any ideas or an inkling as to where is should look next, please do tell, it is annoying to hear the noise going down the road. It is coming from the driveshaft/rear end area. Possibly from the transmission, but the transmission is shifting fine. Transfer case working properly. I repeat, nothing is broken on the rear end from what I can see, unless it has a hairline crack that cannot be seen by eyesight. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I Know it's been a minute, but I just moved to Florida! Anyhow I had to evacuate to the panhandle of Flordia because of Hurricane Irma. Only been here for 3 weeks and I already got to experience a hurricane. That was about another 700 miles round-trip. I haven't even had a chance to change my oil from the trip down to Florida. Its all good however because mileage wise its right at 5000 miles, so its due, I was just wanting to change it early because it sat all summer. Now for the bad news and next part of the build. I loaned my truck to my sister for one day because her sunroof busted out and I went to a pick a part place and got an entire new sunroof assembly for $200. This is all because insurance wouldn't cover it and the body shop quoted $3000 to fix it. Anyhow i spent most of the day doing that crap -a** of a job and she brings my truck back with a nasty popping sound coming from the rear. She proceeded to tell me it started making a sound about half way to her work which is an hour drive. She said she also went out for lunch with it, and drove it an hour back. Didn't even cross her mind to call me and ask about the weird very loud annoying noise. (Insert crybaby emojis) mehhhh! Why me!!! You know we just got power back in the house like 2 days ago. Still have not had a chance to get to normal life or as normal as can be for being in a new location. Like come on give me a break, we just had a hurricane. I'm pretty sure the rear diff pinion ring is broken. It makes a popping noise about every 6to8 feet moving forward. Last thing I need is for my rear diff to blow up on me when I don't have the tools to fix it myself currently. I was planning on doing a 14 bolt swap in the future but not right meow when I haven't been working because of hurricanes! A lot of crap has been going awry since I have moved down here. Had to replace all my wheel bearings on a tandem axle enclosed trailer with drum hubs. That was a job without having a race punch and other tools. Also it only a temporary fix as I used emery cloth on the axle because it was completely scared and scraped. Gunna have to replace an entire axle, but I slammed a bearing over it with my bfh for a band-aid so I can use it for the time being. I could go on and on with other crap that has been breaking on me. (Incase your wondering, I do not have a trailer brake controller on my truck yet. Future upgrade.) I only pull this trailer occasionally with my truck. So now that my rant is over. I found a guy local who will swap me a rebuilt 10 bolt for my entire diff as a core for $600. Seems like the best deal I'll find in a pinch. Truck is currently parked at my shop. Got my motorcycle in the meantime. I haven't had time to open the cover and look at the diff, maybe its just an axle bearing but I doubt it.(insert lots of crybaby emojis) regardless I don't have an axle bearing puller, not an expensive tool, but just a big paper weight to spend $100 and use it once. Sorry for the Harry Potter book, peace be with yall! #saltlife #comeswithaprice Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I'll post photos another time, but I took my truck to a muffler shop and had them install a stock like exhaust with a quiet muffler. It is a single aluminized 3" from the cat back exiting behind the rear tire. So it looks completely stock again. Cost me $192 with tax. I call that a steal! It will take some getting used too to have a quiet truck again. The reason I went back to stock is because I will be towing a tandem axel enclosed trailer occasionally and I wanted my low end torque back. Anyhow, my next investment will be front end suspension parts like new lower control arms and ball joints from Moog. I'll also replace the inner and outer tie rods, idler arm and idler arm bracket, the other wheel hub, pitman arm, and sway bars links. Probably about $800-$1000 dollars worth of parts. The vibration is not a big deal, but it is starting to annoy me! Gotta get the suspension right before I invest in offset rims and meaty tires! I'm looking at getting some 18" fuels paired with nittos. I still haven't removed the gunk off of the door were the old trim was, but I'll get to it eventually lol As always, sorry for the essay! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Of course haha. Just sucks now cause I don't have access to as many amenities/tools as before to do all my own work on my truck! Now I either have to invest in the tools or try and develope a new network of friends that can help a guy out haha! I still have more than most, and a shop to work in, but its still a different ballgame when it comes to doing stuff. For instance, my exhaust fell off, so now I'm debating if I'll just go to a muffler shop or buy a kit online and doit myself, I don't have access to a lift anymore! So it will be a bit harder to install than before Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So I up and moved from northern Indiana to South of Tampa Bay Flordia! Like I literally just put the truck back together less than a week ago. I didn't even use half a tank of gas before I went and rented a uhaul trailer and packed up for my move. My family keep asking me if they thought my truck would make it over the 1000 mile trip without having a mishap. I just said it'll be fine Even though I had a small gut feeling that it was really a 60/40 chance nothing would go wrong. That being said let me tell you how much weight I put in the truck, or as close as I can estimate. Motorcycle: 700 pounds more or less Empty 5x8 uhaul trailer: 900 pounds Loaded trailer: 1600 pounds My weight: 220 pounds Stuff in truck cab and bed: 400 pounds Estimated weight 3,120 pounds give or take! Supposedly my little 255hp truck can pull 9,000 pounds. I would never torture a little old gas truck with that much weight! For a diesel truck 1 and half tons ain't nothin to shake a stick at, but my old truck has had a easy life more or less. My little 4.8l and 4l60e tranny didn't like it! I've never towed anything this heavy for that long of a distance in this truck. Like I've pulled fiberglass boats and car trailers! With this truck, but have never needed to push the tow haul button. Also Indiana is relatively flat!! I haven't even driven the truck long enough to know if there are any kinks to work out after building it like I did. But by golly OL' Grumpy motored through the 16 hours drive like a champ! I couldn't use cruise control very much and I never shut off the tow/haul button. I cruised between 65 and 75 the whole way. This trip couldn't have made me happier in terms of investing money into fixing Grumpy! That being said the truck does still have 188,000 miles on it and I probably cut my tranny and rear diff life in half from this trip. I wish I had a trans temp guage. On interstate 24 towards the border between Tennessee and Georgia I think its called beaver hill. I could hear my tranny screaming bloody murder at me for the 4 mile hill climb! I did have one mishap, a semi truck had a tire tread rip apart in front of me and I had no time to dodge it. It luckily landed in between my front tires bounced up and broke my rusty exhaust I patched up that I put off cause I was moving. It broke the exhaust right where I used to have a muffler, so I grabbed some gloves and pulled what was left of my exhaust off the hangar and put it in my bed. The exhaust now ends between the end of the cab and the beginning of the truck bed. It was a loud last 5 hour drive. I kind of like it though haha, I might just put a down pipe on it for now until I have time to buy a new exhaust. It won't hurt anything for now! Gunna be swamped for a bit with the move and all. I also adjusted my headlights because of the 2 inch lift, well I think the weight in the bed pointed them back up more because I could see just fine, but the other cars may have got a little pissed at me from all the flashes I got on the interstate! The first pic I have already unloaded the trailer, my truck bed was squatting pretty good before unloading but the trailer still pulled really well. Anyhow sorry for the short story but I just wanted to say my peace about how well and impressed I am that my old truck made a drive most people wouldn't! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Checked the rear lift blocks. They are tapered and in the correct position. One side is 2 3/4 inch, other is 3 1/4 inch. I'm not gunna worry about for now, it's not that bothersome for the time being. While truck was on lift I went ahead and seam sealed behind the inner rockers where they/I welded them to the truck. I then covered them with some spray can primer. Hopefully this will keep the rott out a bit longer. I also wrapped a few spots on my exhaust where it was leaking. Photo is me and my father's truck next to each other. I think he may have a thing for green trucks lol. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Truck is aligned, I have a vibration between 55 mph and 65 mph. I guess it doesn't go away above 65 but it is not as noticable. I need to replace my idler arm bracket. It had some play and I had to talk them into aligning my truck. It was technically within spec but they still didn't want to align the truck. I had them toe in the front tires in by 0.01 degrees to offset the play. I do not think that is the cause of the vibration however, I think it is my lift blocks on the leaf springs. I'm going to put truck on lift tomorrow and see if I put the lift blocks on wrong, it says in the rough country directions that the lift blocks are tapered. They didn't seem tapered to me when u installed but I did not measure them nor did I read the directions. I have heard that the taper lift blocks can cause a vibration, but I've only heard of this on bigger lifts than a leveling kit. They are tapered to offset the angle of the driveshaft. Who knows, lots to check tomorrow. I parked my truck next to my father's 2015 Chevy Silverado and I am about 1/4 taller than his stock height. Another culprit for the vibration could be the ball joints are worn out even though they seemed okay. But it was hard to tell for sure since the idler arm bracket was loose. I also had to replace my driver side wheel hub about 3 years ago and I didn't do the passenger side. So it could also be the passenger hub having play. Basically I'm going to drive it anyway because it's not that bad of a vibration. Im going to save up money to replace all of these parts anyhow and just need to get by for about 6 months. I do not think the vibration will affect the wear of the tires, but it will wear out the front end components faster. I may need to invest in a steering stabilizer as well. I bought some exhaust wrap to fix a couple holes in my "street legal" exhaust that will be replaced when I save up money for it as well. Lol Anyhow, I'm going to buff the rest of the truck tomorrow. I'm not looking forward to it! Probably won't touch the hood. Be awhile since I said this, but as always, sorry for the essay! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Been in mad dash mode. Reassembling and not taking many pics. The interior is covered in Bondo dust. I still have to seam seal the welds underneath the truck where I welded the inner rockers on. I finally got the brakes bled. All by myself too!! Haven't put on the front wheel wells yet. I gotta sandblast the trim sill mounts that are rotted. Gotta peel all the outside trim gunk off the doors. I went for a test drive and found that I have a vibration above 45 mph. The outside of my front wheels are hitting because the camber of the tires is off. Also doesn't help that I have all terrain tires. Truck has an appointment for alignment on Friday morning. Also figured out why my interior lights never shut off and I have to use the manual override button. But a that's something to fix in the future. Gotta fix my drl's (daytime running lights) as well. I won't post as often and I have been, but I still have quite a lot I'm going to do to ole Grumpy! Will update tomorrow with better photos! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Welp, you can definitely see the color difference lol. Oh well, my goal was mainly to get rid of the rust. I can live with mismatched paint that is almost as old as I am. (I got a few years on the paint) Now I need to save some money for those 18 inch rims and 33 inch nittos Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

One more coat of clear and she's donzo!! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk