GrumpyGhost

Finally got around to servicing the transmission, honestly doesn't look bad at all to me..... it definitely smelled burnt, still red and no real debris in the pan. ...the magnet had a layer of grease or felt like grease but i think the pan was way dirtier last time i serviced this transmission..... anyhow the exhaust manifold bolts came loose fairly easy considering...... In fact i cant believe how easy this whole ordeal went. I even had time to drill out the stock pan drain plug and install the new one ive had sitting in my tool box for over a year now. I have a severe oil leak going on though, definitely a rear main seal and probably the valley cover or somewhere up high... My driveshaft still has a wobble so and i have moog u-joints to toss in on the driveshaft, i also plan to take my truck to the tire shop and get the tires rebalanced and rotated and some better lug nuts installed as i think the cheap ones i bought from the part store are too short causing my wheels to possibly not tighten properly.......i broke one of the cheap lug nuts awhile ago and swapped it out for an open acorn i had laying around it made me think hmmm........haven't dont much to grumpy as ive just been using it to putter back and fourth between work which is only 4 miles a day. Plus errands but the miles have not been racking up since i moved closer to work luckily. Now thats it cool outside all thr parts stacked up in the corner will be installed over the next few months in my spare time. Tomorrow i may even scotchbright the roof, the clearcoat is gone but their is enough color left that I'm going to just clearcoat the roof and the hood and some of the body will be getting black vinyl wrap

Grumpy is down!!! Actually I was still able to drive home. (Grumpy has never not gotten me home besides the one time the fuel pump failed, 22 years old now)...Sunday evening I was cruising around 50 mph when suddenly I heard a "clunk/tink" kinda noise and then my steering wheel started vibrating horribly.....I could barely hold onto it until I got Grumpyghost woahed down to a stop. Long story short I figured it was a cv axle or something but found it to be one capped popped off one side of the rear ujoint. I was only 2 miles from home and was able to drive grumpy home at about 5 mph. It was not a fun drive but besides some bruising it looks like I didn't damage anything major. I did see my my rear diff cover leaking fluid and found some bolts loose on the cover when I got home. I'm pretty sure the vibrations from the high speed break probably caused them to come loose because there are no leaks on the driveway from grumpy anymore. (It leaks some oil but the skid plate catches it) Also I blue locktited the diff cover bolts over a year ago and I park in the same spot daily so I would notice a oil spot. This weekend I will replace the ujoint again....feels like I keep going through a ujoint a year. I had no idea it was going to blow! I ordered new hardware for the yoke and some moog ujoints and also bought a cast iron ball joint press off of Amazon for $52......its heavy but should never break. Finally just decided to buy one instead of renting parts store one...... which is usually bent slightly or threads messed up and missing parts. I haven't been posting because tapatalk doesn't work for this forum anymore and I haven't ordered the parts for the electric fans and bigger alternator. Im going to hardwire the electric fans with 10guage wire and not rely on the stock computer to control them.

Haven't touched Grumpy in a couple weeks so here's a little update. I took the "new" chrome grill off so I can start prepping it for paint and threw the original broken already painted grill back in with some zip ties to hold it in place for the time being. The hood and roof clear coat is almost gone. The $5 black spray paint job I did 4 years ago on the front bumper is chipping away. I plan to wrap the roof in carbon fiber black and I'm looking for a 2001-02 chevy 2500 HD Hood. The passenger side bed started flaking and I need to sand it down and primer it soon before it actually starts rusting. Its on the border of where most trucks that are two tone crossover so I may just paint the bottom half of my truck and two tone it. On the driver side the giant dent behind the driver door I filled with about 1/2 inch of bondo is totally cracked wide open. Gunna fill it with super glue and walk away for now. I checked the oil and its probably only about a half quart low since I did the the oil change. It also looks mighty dirty for not even 600 miles but I did carve out a lot of sludge in the oil pan and probably knocked a lot of sludge loose. I also added seafoam to the oil to help break up some of the sludge so I'll probably change the oil in another month or two just to drain out anything that may have been knocked down into the freshly cleaned oil pan. In news of modifications coming up, I picked up a radiator and electric fan off a 2005 gmc yukon at the local lkq junkyard for $88. I actually wasn't planning on getting the radiator or fans but instead saw a nice 2006 gmc sierra truck in a dark gray that looked as the though the doors were in great shape. I get there today and both rear doors were gone and from what I could tell the front doors had been repainted as I saw some paint runs and rust at the bottoms so I passed on them. I did find about 3 vehicles with the electric fans in them which I thought was odd because usually they get pulled out pretty quickly here in the Florida yards. I did not pull the harness as I am just going to order a relay kit for the fans and will also be upgrading the alternator and other things. I know full well the risk of running a used radiator but this radiator wasn't even properly drained at the yard and when I cut the bottom rad hose...... what looked like brand new rad fluid came gushing out onto the ground. I figured there might be a little radiator fluid but it was still full. I think they just sucked out the overflow reservoir and set the truck in the yard. The reason I cut the hoses instead of using pliers and saving the hoses for the next guy is basically because I didn't have the proper tools and only had a small socket wrench set and electric sawzall to cut the door hinges as I was going for doors originally. Plus the hoses where soft and no good anyhow. Also the radiator is already built for the electric fans and is actually like an inch or 2 bigger than stock. I could have probably used my current radiator but this new used one is in great shape and I feel confident it will serve me fine.(yes I know I said the same about the rear brakes but I'm hoping for the best and $88 is way cheaper than new. Worst case it fails and I buy a new one anyhow.) I am still amassing parts for Grumpys engine bay refresh. New belts, alternator, tensioners, now some electric fans and wiring, and possibly new battery cables. Exhaust gaskets/maybe newish gone over heads with new head gaskets and arp bolts, new intake gaskets, upgraded injectors. Hp tuners......Basically I'm going to make grumpy 100% reliable before I do cosmetic stuff. But if I'm honest I know that the trans only has a limited life left. Que the $1400 stimulus, I may use it to buy another 4l60e and then build it myself in my garage with all the upgraded parts for "high HP 4l60e" LOL its not a race truck so the trans will hopefully last like 20,000ish miles with a turbo. This way when my current one dies I can just swap in the built one. Also only part of the stimulus will go to that and the rest will go towards things I actually need so I won't feel to too sad about it. Yes I still intend to turbo Grumpy but I no longer want to go crazy with horsepower. I just want a fun high revving Grumpy Turbo truck at about 400ish wheel hp for a daily driver. Make the blowoff noises and stuff but also not watch the gas guage go down every time I get on it. (Gas is $2.89 at this posting) A nice "street ripper!" Im thinking next winter grumpy will be ready for turbo stuff. I know I say I am going to make grumpy 100% reliable before I do cosmetic stuff, but if I can get a set of doors which are needed now then I will. (Passenger window still doesn't work and my passenger side auto locks don't work.) I check Facebook marketplace daily and the junkyards that post photos once a week for a good set of not rusted doors. A lot of northerners have moved to Florida recently and I have only been running into rusty junk doors in truck part out posts. Im sure some will pop up eventually. Business is booming here in Florida and I have been working 6 days a week for awhile now. I planned to have most of the maintenance stuff done by the end of march before it got hot again but here we are. The good news is I should have the money set aside to finally indulge into my Grumpyghost street Turbo truck dreams this winter. As always sorry for the million and one grammatical errors and cheers for another day on this beautiful blue planet tumbling through space around a giant ball of fire that will blind you if you look at it too long. #facts Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Prepare for a three part book series I'm writing below on how much I hate brakes...... New rotors, new calipers, new pads, 2 new caliper bracket bolts, and red locktite on the old reused bolts after I cleaned them with wire wheel. I also discovered on the passenger side caliper I was missing one caliper bolt to the caliper bracket. The missing bolt was the bottom one so it never let the caliper lift but it let the caliper pull into the rotor which was causing what I thought was a stuck piston when hitting the brakes. The "loose" suspension feeling is gone now after my test drive and the pedal no longer pulses when braking. I also did the brake pad break in procedure. Basically get to 40ish mph then brake semi heavily down to about 10 or 15 mph about 3 to 5 times in a row on a "closed road" or in Mexico. To be clear I was missing 2 bolts total, one on the caliper mounting bracket in previous post which caused my wheel to lock up, and then on the passenger side the caliper pin guide bolt was missing letting it "dig in" to the rotor causing issues since pretty much new. Basically folks this is probably mostly or all my fault, the missing caliper bolt on passenger side was probably from me not using a wrench to hold the guide pin so I could tighten the bolt properly. If you don't holt the guide pin the caliper bolt will just spin and not tighten properly. If you look closely on my new calipers, there are blue (look green in photo) dash marks on all the bolts to show that they have all been torqued to spec and the line will show if the bolt has backed off during shipping. I feel bad that I used the warranty to "basically" get free new parts for something that was caused by my error, but its also on autozone for offering the awesome lifetime warranty on pads, and 2 year warranty on rotors. Lets see if I can make these last longer than a year. Yes they gave me grief about it, but its their policy and they tried to give me in store credit but I paid cash so I was like nope. They warranty procedure at Autozone works like this......I bought the parts a year ago and registered the warranty under my phone number on their system and then no receipt is needed. Then to swap out the defective parts, you either bring them in and pay nothing, or if their still on the vehicle, you buy the parts, then change them out, and bring the old parts back in the boxes and they will refund the money. Part of the problem was I got brake pads they no longer sell, so I had to get the elite brakes, and then it said I only bought one rotor the year prior even though I showed proof I had purchased both. I actually pulled up the old post on here. It was a big hassle but I paid cash and they were trying to give me in store credit and I said no and eventually got cash. I shop there all the time and know the manager but its Sunday evening and they weren't working and it is what it is. Its all fixed for now........I recently replaced the water pump, I now hear slight noise coming from the belt. I noticed when the old water pump was spraying water all over the engine bay, my idler pulley was soaked, I imagine I need to do the belt, idler pulley, and belt tensioner. Also I have never changed the a/c belt or tensioner for it. I wonder if its the original a/c belt that has lasted all these years!! So engine bay work is coming soon, as I still haven't touched the exhaust gaskets. (Still noisy but not knocking like when it was cold outside.) These used calipers from the junkyard are going to a metal scrap bin where they can cause no one else problems, lesson learned...others may have luck with used parts, so far I have nothing but problems with brakes and probably always will. Hope your all enjoying your evening. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

When in Mexico..... Once upon a time there were zip ties and vice grips to lock out a caliper so said someone could drive to the parts store real quick like,......cause the required bolts to secure said brake caliper was not on hand as previously thought.....when in Mexico....... In all seriousness I've seen guys do this to the rear brakes of old cars with leaking drum wheel cylinders and drive home 400 miles with kinda front brakes...... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I hate brakes, have I mentioned that before...... I have been super busy with work lately and have not had time to swap out the rear brake calipers with the new ones. The past few days I have felt like something is loose with my front end....but I looked and felt everything underneath and didn't see or feel anything loose. Kept driving it but I could tell something was off with the drive line.....then I had a hard stop because Florida.... Anyhow I stopped fine no accidents but the next time I hit the brakes I hear a rattle and then my left rear tire locks up. Luckily I was only a couple blocks from my house and was able to put my truck in reverse and it unlocked the tire and I limped home going 10 mile an hour because I could not use the brakes. It was late when I got home last night and I decided to wait till morning. This is what I found. I have an extra bolt from the junkyard set I took but I remember cleaning the brake bolts with a wire brush last year and I never put new locktite on them. Completely my own fault, anyhow I'm going to slap this back together, run to autozone and buy new rotors and pads, swap everything, and then return the old rotors and pads under warranty. The passenger side brake pads are almost gone as that is the side that has given me problems from day one, but the good driver side caliper decided to let a bolt fly and scrape up my rim. In all seriousness, I was very lucky and a best case scenario for something like this l.... I skipped a step as I was in a hurry. I gotta pull the fronts off too and put some locktite on them as well. At least it decided to warm up to a scorching 85°F today ... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

New Brakes are installed! Honestly this was the easiest time I've ever had doing brakes. Ill let the picture's speak for me this time. I just have to fix the rears now. I know for certain now that I have a warped rotor and it's from the passenger rear that is sticky. Luckily I have new calipers to match these coming in the mail. The rotors are under warranty with autozone, so are the pads. Callan brakes did a great job and I'll definitely buy from them again. The old clunky brakes are gone. Tomorrow comes more! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I cant upload any more photos this month because tapatalk wants me to pay for vip to upload large and unlimited photos and I guess their is a cap per month now. New brakes calipers came in today and I'm super impressed for the price I payed. They were remanufactured this year so these are fresh rebuilds and not some sitting on a self for years. Came with a fresh new silver paint job and honestly I think im going to leave the color alone and order the rear calipers to match the fronts. I already ordered the rears from the same Callahan supplier. Again these are an upgrade over my current factory brakes with 13" rotors and bigger front calipers. They are from a 2008 and newer truck. Im going to do my brakes this weekend and update in February when I can upload photos again. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Now that my trust in Grumpy has been restored with the oil pressure issue fixed. I have been driving grumpy normally and i have 45 psi at idle and then during normal driving it rises to 60 psi. Basically anything over 1500 rpm and it sits around 60psi. Honestly a huge relief. As for my exhaust gaskets, I have not found time to change them yet as I had planned. I did go through and tighten all of the manifold bolts and found 2 loose ones and the truck has quieted down. Its still noisy and leaking as some of the exhaust gasket is actually blown out and nonexistent. Its time to finally finish upgrading the brakes. These are the 13" front rotor and bigger front brakes from a 2008 and newer truck. I upgraded the rear to dual piston 13" rotors almost a year ago now! Wow! (We made it through 2020) To run these brake calipers a 17" rim is needed. I got the rear brake calipers at a junkyard and I think I'm going to order some news ones just to be safe. I did go through one of them but the remanufactured brake on the rear driver side has always given me problems and now its sticks sometimes. Anyhow I hate doing brakes, it's like my one pet peeve that I'll pay whatever price for someone else to fix it. However I'm going to tackle it once more. Anyhow I'm going to either do exhaust gaskets or my transmission oil filter and fresh trans fluid this weekend hopefully! Also my passenger window motor died! I may leave it as The bottoms of my doors are rotted. I may have found some doors off of a part out truck on Facebook marketplace and I'm sure those windows are fine or at least working. No rust being from Florida, but I don't plan to paint my truck until march or April but honestly it might be later than that (times are wild). I also don't have the room to store 3 doors so I'd need to swap them immediately and a mismatched truck will drive me nuts! I don't know if I should spring on them now or just wait as I have seen a lot of these trucks getting parted out because of the LS engine craze. New doors off of a newer year truck is the best option instead of welding patch panels because my passenger door has a nice dent, my driver door almost got ripped off backwards, and the rear passenger door is just plain easy to swap. A 2x4 and a hammer and the new door hinge pin kit will make the new doors line up perfectly. So much stuff to do, so little time to do it! I have to finish the big maintenance stuff before I get back to sanding the 20" rims. Gotta have the good bones to rock the flashy big rims and tires. Honestly though these rims are pitted and I'm going to paint them to match the truck. They are nice rims but also dirt cheap so if I Curb one I won't die a little inside like some of these guys rocking forces for $15,000. Respect to those guys because I just can't do it. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The most important photo didn't upload! Geeze! Check out the oil pressure guage now! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

GREAT NEWS! In this case i can literally say third times the charm! This is the third oil pressure sensor i have put in this truck. I guess I didn't know my own strength and broke the previous 2 senors on install. First off it took me 20 mins to do this and that was with me stopping, cleaning my hands and then taking photos. I did cut my arm on a fuel line but its a tight squeeze and i don't even care because i have great oil pressure! The first time i changed this sensor i remember it being dead of winter, i was outside and it took me like 3 hours of cussing. Only reason this one came out so quickly was because i used my earthquake braappp braappp ratchet. I took of the electrical connector, then i slid my oil pressure sensor socket on the oil pressure sensor and it immediately fell over. Then i pulled it off and out came the top half of the sensor with the socket. To clarify i did not put any pressure on the sensor, just put the socket on and then let go and it fell over. After the top of the sensor came off, i reached in with the socket again and got it to latch on the bottom half of the sensor still in the block. Then i proceeded with adding and universal joint and 2 extensions onto my brapp brappp. I hit the switch and the bottom half of the sensor came out easily, i actually lost it on top of the transmission so hopefully it falls out. So to reiterate that i didn't put tons of force on the sensor when i installed it, my earthquake ratchet cannot break a bolt over 25 foot pounds. Now 25 foot pounds is a lot, but this is also through a sharp angled universal bit and extensions. So i don't feel that i overtightened the old senors by much but just enough to crack and leak and over time it lead to failure. I hand tightened the new sensor as much as possible then i ever so gently tightened it with the socket and regular ratchet. Plugged in the sensor and start grumpy and BINGO! OVER 40PSI OIL PRESSURE!!!! As i was tackling this i was looking for extra oil leaks and found my pcv hose has oil all around it, and behind the oil pressure sensor i stuck a finger down there and found my oil leak that is coming down to the bottom and making it so my rear main looks like it is the culprit. I will keep monitoring the oil leaks but next project is Sunday for my exhaust gaskets which i can now confirm is leaking and causing the excess ticking noise that brought me on this whole operation in the first place. I feel relieved, i was starting to feel like i couldn't rely on grumpy as a daily driver anymore and my future plans for grumpyghost were in jeopardy if i couldn't find oil pressure i felt comfortable with. Now im thinking i should get some long tube headers and delete the stock original cats and do a mild tone dual exhaust like i once had on grumpy. Oh and maybe a cam swap and HP tuners by the end of this year if all goes well. I had a dad day at work, but after i got done working i somehow got a 2nd wind and decided to tackle this project and now im happy as can be!!! Hope yalls day goes well! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I plan to tackle the exhaust manifold gaskets this weekend. Got them off Amazon mahle brand for $19. Im probably going to write a whole book about all the crap going on with grumpy. Driveway is still dry but i crawled under and found oil after an extended drive today. Also my front turn lamp was full of water as i found out when i tried to change a bad turn signal bulb. the bulb sockets are completely trash and broke apart. I rigged it back together so i could drive safely but it felt like grumpy is getting a real crap personality and is now really pissed at me and just said (F you!) Basically i feel like i may be sinking lots of money into this soon. Why stop now? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Grumpy has zero oil leaks according to the driveway, i have not installed the skid plate and i haven't seen any oil on the ground and i checked today and see nothing underneath that is wet! I have yet to change the oil pressure sensor but it has also gotten cold here. The oil pressure is the same when cold. Also the sewing machine\ticking noise is gone at cold start up in the morning and does not come back until the engine is warm. By warm i mean at least 160°F as i only drive it about 5 miles a day. I ordered some stock multilayered exhaust gaskets as I can some carbon build up on the rear exhaust ports on both sides of engine. The bolts are broken and i couldn't get my welder in there to weld a nut on the broken bolts. So i ordered some dorman brackets to hold them down, but they were never tight at oil changes when i would check them so i removed them all together and it has ran for years with no leaks i think until now. When i tried to repair the broken bolts before i replaced the exhaust gaskets with cheap ones from napa. At the time i did not know about the inferior exhaust gaskets and that I could just reuse my stock ones. Originally i had 3 broken bolts and i replaced all of them with the gold number 8s off ebay claiming they wouldn't break. Anyhow i think my excessive sewing machine noise is from my exhaust gaskets leaking again. When i find time to replace the oil pressure sensor i plan to stick a brush and some compressed air in the hole to make sure it doesn't have sludge blocking it causing the readings to be off. More than likely that is not the case but im trying to cover all bases before trying an oil pump. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I was just about to update my build thread about my low oil pressure and remembered you posted in mine so I decided to check yours out...... ......To my surprise........I went to college for automotive engineering but have since switched careers to an electrician so automotive is more of a hobby than I would like it to be right now(studying for electrical license). But reading your "oil rant" made me go and find my old reference books so I could refresh my memory on this subject a bit. Honestly I enjoyed going through trying to remember all the chemistry references and the ASTM tests which in college I actually got to do some of those tests. Im by no means an expert but I am forgetting a lot as I just found out going through these. After opening the bottom of my engine and seeing the carnage I wanted to go and look at these books but it was this post that got me to do it! Anyhow it was refreshing to see such detail and my head also hurts now! Lol Cheers! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yeah it wasn't that bad, but it makes me wonder what they use in synthetic oil for certain things like dirt and water suspension. Like i know back in the day quaker state oil used an addive similar to paraffin which is a wax based compound that caused sludge. I guess its better to have the engine walls lined with sludge and grime than to have it on the important stuff like my cam or bearings. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I did not change the oil pressure sensor yet. I heard their is a screen that can be cleaned under the pressure sensor. Its a pain to get to and by the time i got my tools and mess cleaned up from all of the 20 plus years of sludge and grime i ran out of motivation. I did not even put the skid plates back on as i want to watch the drive way for leaks. The noise is not as predominant as it was before, oil pressure is slightly higher but that seems typical by just doing the oil change. I have a feeling as i believe this will be the 4th oil pressure sensor i have put on this truck. It reads the same on my obdII scanner as it does on the dash. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I still have to drill out the rivet and clean up the front lip, but this is how "clean" i got everything. I already installed the windage tray and oil pick up tube. I must say that installing the pick up tube was a pain, i really hope i didn't pinch the new oring but time will tell i guess. I preoiled the oring and i would get the tube to "suck" down but i would need to move the pick up tube to get the mounting brackets on the studs. It took me probably 20 mins to get it back on and feel okay with how it went in. Overall this has been a not fun job but its doable. Ive been taking my time, but if i really put my mind to it or was getting paid i could probably do this in about 5 or 6 hours with some prepping. I wonder how much shops charge for this job. I broke out my pressure washer and cleaned off the gunk from my skid plate and my cross member. I hit the oil pan but i just have a cheapy electric pressure washer and it didn't have the power to clean the oil pan. Anyhow next post will be either good or bad news on oil pressure! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

It was ran on dino oil for about 130,000ish miles. I switched it over to synthetic in 2011, it may have gotten one or two or a few quick lube changes with castrol or quick lube synthetic, but i usually ran mobil 1 synthetic and changed it at 5,000 miles...... or if i felt like it had been more than a year since it was changed but it didn't get 5,000 miles in that year. This truck has seen a lot of city and highway driving. These last 20,000 miles have all been city stop and go miles around Florida, top speed usually around 50mph. This was my dads truck he bought new in 1999, before me the oil change interval is questionable, it probably got changed every 8,000 miles on dino oil before i got it. But during that time period it saw all highway miles of about 60ish miles a day on no hills straight roads. I also added cheap ebay cold air intake in 2011 and changed it to a name brand k&N filter later on. Cold air intakes let more air in while also letting in more dust and crap. Im not too surprised at the sludge, but it was more than i was expecting. My goal is to get another 2 years out of this truck as a daily driver and then ill go and buy a new vehicle and put this in the garage for a restoration. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The cylinder walls look good and still have crosshatching, but SLUDGE MONSTER! I am going to clean everything as best i can without a parts cleaner on hand so just some brake clean. The sludge is everywhere! Im going to be running seafoam in the oil to try and clean out the engine a bit after this. Basically i didn't see excessive wear on the cam and really saw nothing besides sludge. Im going to send it, i don't have a check engine light, no codes or anything other than the oil pressure being low. Im going to slap it all back together and call it good as long as the oil pressure comes back, otherwise off comes the front end for a new oil pump. I didn't take a photo of the windage tray side facing the crank, but it had very little sludge compared to the bottom you see in the photos. Just remember 220,000 miles, about half its life on dinosaur and the other half on synthetic oil Did i mention my rear main seal is completely dry! Some good news lol New nick name: GRUMPY THE SLUDGE BOY! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Its a cloudy hot humid day here in Florida. Pretty much spot on with the work I've been doing to this truck. Almost ominous/foreshadowing that im going to lower the oil pan and see something i don't like. Anyhow I Got the front differential lowered, about to start taking off oil pan bolts. Started at about 9:30a.m., currently 1pm. Ive also been taking my time and not rushing. I went and picked up a harbor freight electric wrench because why not. I don't do this enough to warrant buying the Milwaukee one and it was cheaper still with the warranty and one extra battery. I went ahead and got a new oil pressure sensor from autozone because its under a lifetime warranty and might as well have all new fresh parts so i don't ever have to touch this again hopefully! My oil leak is evident by the crazy oil caked crossmember and skid plate. Time for lunch! Cheers to 2021! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

First off Happy New Years!! Grumpy has developed the typical ticking/knocking sound at idle, I have 20 psi oil pressure which grumpyghost has been that way for the past 2 years or so. Tomorrow i will be dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pickup up tube o ring and leaking oil pan gasket. This is a 4x4 unit and its been leaking oil for years and years and years.....i have watched YouTube videos of how guys sneak the oil pan just under the diff. But something tells me it would just be easier to take the extra 20 bolts off the cv axles and disconnect the electrical and drop it out of the way. We shall see though! It will also let me look at the condition of the 220,000 mile 4.8l engine and determine if it will be okay for heads cam package in the very near future. Since this is a gen III 4.8l early rendition it has heads with the smaller intake valves and a complete head swap is really the way im looking at going as long as the bottom end looks alright. The Florida sun has wore down my clear coat and i didn't put in the time to wax my truck so the paint has gotten ugly! Also my original grill broke the rest of the way and i had to source a "new used" one so it has a chrome grill again. I also decided I don't like my 17" rims and tires and bought a set of stock 20" rims that are pitting and need sanding and i won't feel bad about painting them. Still looking for a deal on a 2001-2002 chevy Silverado HD hood for grumpy. BASICALLY ILL BE BACK TOMORROW WITH MORE PHOTOS AND HOPEFULLY NOT BAD NEWS! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Grumpy got a new set of shoes. 265/70r12 Atlas crosswind ALL Terrains Not the big 33s I wanted but these were $427 delivered to my door and I got them balanced and mounted for $40. I'm going to save for new rims and tires. I thought these stock ones would grow on me but I don't want to paint the nice chrome black. I might try and do a trade on Facebook marketplace for someone who is looking to go back to stock rims and I pay cash or idk yet, but I needed tires and I don't want drop $2000 on a set up right now. Also last week my water pump blew a seal and was spitting water all over the engine bay on my 40 min commute to work one morning, I made it to work but the temps sky rocketed to 230°F. Anyhow I replaced that as well but its so hot here in Florida I didn't document it. Still haven't done the front brakes yet, I'll get to it eventually! Cheers! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

It went pretty easy! Channel lock on rubber brake line, loosen bolts holding brake caliper, brake free the brake line. Remove old caliper! The emergency brakes were a little bit to figure out how to remove the shoe, but after some finesse it was and easy swap with new parts, then I fit the rotor and adjusted accordly. I was also working on this in between rain storms as we had a tropical storm go right by us. But ultimately it was a pretty straightforward swap of parts, everything fit well, and i used a hand vacuum pump to bleed the brakes by myself. In the photos you can see how much bigger the new rotors are and i can definitely tell a difference in braking. Big improvement! Still waiting for the front calipers to come in the mail, I will document that swap as well! Until then, peace! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Its all assembly and ready to go. The original bleeder thread pitch is m10 1.0, I was able to retap to m10 1.5 and found a bleeder screw to match. I ordered new banjo bolts and copper washers which will arrive tomorrow. In case yall are wondering I used vaseline to lubricate the pistons and square cut rubber rings before I reinstalled them in the caliper. I don't know for sure but I doubt just dot 3 brake fluid would have been sufficient to lubricate the rings and not tear them before installing the pistons which is not easy for most people unless you've done it before. Its all petroleum based fluids so itll be fine. I put antizeese on the new pin boots and pins before installing, I will aslo add some to the contact points of the brake pads on the caliper but am waiting until installation on my truck. Im considering doing the rear brakes after work one evening this week, we shall see what the hot humid Florida weather does. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

After much deliberation I decided to disassemble the caliper that doesn't have a remanufactured stamp on it and found that the pistons and seals are in great shape. I then found the bleeder screw on the remanufactured side was cross threaded and I stripped the threads removing the bleeder, the non-remanufactured caliper bleeder was perfectly fine. So I need to get new bleeders and a tread repair kit for the one caliper. I am not going to take apart the remanufactured caliper and im not replacing the seals on the other caliper as I feel its all in good shape. Front calipers are ordered along with the rotors and pads. I got the cheapest parts i could at autozone, duralast rotors with a 2 year warranty and duralast gt brake pads which are on sale because they don't make them anymore, but they are carbon fiber pads. Also bought new emergency brake shoes and the hardware to replace my original 20 year old emergency brakes which don't work and new guide pin and bolts and seals for the rear calipers. I replaced the emergency brake lines when I rebuilt grumpy a few years ago so this should fix the emergency brake. In other news I made a color change to Red for the calipers because I can and I already had the paint, its for engines but its the same stuff they use for painting calipers. As always, cheers and hopefully next weekend I can give yall an update on my progress! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk