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GrumpyGhost

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About GrumpyGhost

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  1. The most important photo didn't upload! Geeze! Check out the oil pressure guage now! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. GREAT NEWS! In this case i can literally say third times the charm! This is the third oil pressure sensor i have put in this truck. I guess I didn't know my own strength and broke the previous 2 senors on install. First off it took me 20 mins to do this and that was with me stopping, cleaning my hands and then taking photos. I did cut my arm on a fuel line but its a tight squeeze and i don't even care because i have great oil pressure! The first time i changed this sensor i remember it being dead of winter, i was outside and it took me like 3 hours of cussing. Only reason this one came out so quickly was because i used my earthquake braappp braappp ratchet. I took of the electrical connector, then i slid my oil pressure sensor socket on the oil pressure sensor and it immediately fell over. Then i pulled it off and out came the top half of the sensor with the socket. To clarify i did not put any pressure on the sensor, just put the socket on and then let go and it fell over. After the top of the sensor came off, i reached in with the socket again and got it to latch on the bottom half of the sensor still in the block. Then i proceeded with adding and universal joint and 2 extensions onto my brapp brappp. I hit the switch and the bottom half of the sensor came out easily, i actually lost it on top of the transmission so hopefully it falls out. So to reiterate that i didn't put tons of force on the sensor when i installed it, my earthquake ratchet cannot break a bolt over 25 foot pounds. Now 25 foot pounds is a lot, but this is also through a sharp angled universal bit and extensions. So i don't feel that i overtightened the old senors by much but just enough to crack and leak and over time it lead to failure. I hand tightened the new sensor as much as possible then i ever so gently tightened it with the socket and regular ratchet. Plugged in the sensor and start grumpy and BINGO! OVER 40PSI OIL PRESSURE!!!! As i was tackling this i was looking for extra oil leaks and found my pcv hose has oil all around it, and behind the oil pressure sensor i stuck a finger down there and found my oil leak that is coming down to the bottom and making it so my rear main looks like it is the culprit. I will keep monitoring the oil leaks but next project is Sunday for my exhaust gaskets which i can now confirm is leaking and causing the excess ticking noise that brought me on this whole operation in the first place. I feel relieved, i was starting to feel like i couldn't rely on grumpy as a daily driver anymore and my future plans for grumpyghost were in jeopardy if i couldn't find oil pressure i felt comfortable with. Now im thinking i should get some long tube headers and delete the stock original cats and do a mild tone dual exhaust like i once had on grumpy. Oh and maybe a cam swap and HP tuners by the end of this year if all goes well. I had a dad day at work, but after i got done working i somehow got a 2nd wind and decided to tackle this project and now im happy as can be!!! Hope yalls day goes well! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. I plan to tackle the exhaust manifold gaskets this weekend. Got them off Amazon mahle brand for $19. Im probably going to write a whole book about all the crap going on with grumpy. Driveway is still dry but i crawled under and found oil after an extended drive today. Also my front turn lamp was full of water as i found out when i tried to change a bad turn signal bulb. the bulb sockets are completely trash and broke apart. I rigged it back together so i could drive safely but it felt like grumpy is getting a real crap personality and is now really pissed at me and just said (F you!) Basically i feel like i may be sinking lots of money into this soon. Why stop now? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. Grumpy has zero oil leaks according to the driveway, i have not installed the skid plate and i haven't seen any oil on the ground and i checked today and see nothing underneath that is wet! I have yet to change the oil pressure sensor but it has also gotten cold here. The oil pressure is the same when cold. Also the sewing machine\ticking noise is gone at cold start up in the morning and does not come back until the engine is warm. By warm i mean at least 160°F as i only drive it about 5 miles a day. I ordered some stock multilayered exhaust gaskets as I can some carbon build up on the rear exhaust ports on both sides of engine. The bolts are broken and i couldn't get my welder in there to weld a nut on the broken bolts. So i ordered some dorman brackets to hold them down, but they were never tight at oil changes when i would check them so i removed them all together and it has ran for years with no leaks i think until now. When i tried to repair the broken bolts before i replaced the exhaust gaskets with cheap ones from napa. At the time i did not know about the inferior exhaust gaskets and that I could just reuse my stock ones. Originally i had 3 broken bolts and i replaced all of them with the gold number 8s off ebay claiming they wouldn't break. Anyhow i think my excessive sewing machine noise is from my exhaust gaskets leaking again. When i find time to replace the oil pressure sensor i plan to stick a brush and some compressed air in the hole to make sure it doesn't have sludge blocking it causing the readings to be off. More than likely that is not the case but im trying to cover all bases before trying an oil pump. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. I was just about to update my build thread about my low oil pressure and remembered you posted in mine so I decided to check yours out...... ......To my surprise........I went to college for automotive engineering but have since switched careers to an electrician so automotive is more of a hobby than I would like it to be right now(studying for electrical license). But reading your "oil rant" made me go and find my old reference books so I could refresh my memory on this subject a bit. Honestly I enjoyed going through trying to remember all the chemistry references and the ASTM tests which in college I actually got to do some of those tests. Im by no means an expert but I am forgetting a lot as I just found out going through these. After opening the bottom of my engine and seeing the carnage I wanted to go and look at these books but it was this post that got me to do it! Anyhow it was refreshing to see such detail and my head also hurts now! Lol Cheers! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  6. Yeah it wasn't that bad, but it makes me wonder what they use in synthetic oil for certain things like dirt and water suspension. Like i know back in the day quaker state oil used an addive similar to paraffin which is a wax based compound that caused sludge. I guess its better to have the engine walls lined with sludge and grime than to have it on the important stuff like my cam or bearings. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. I did not change the oil pressure sensor yet. I heard their is a screen that can be cleaned under the pressure sensor. Its a pain to get to and by the time i got my tools and mess cleaned up from all of the 20 plus years of sludge and grime i ran out of motivation. I did not even put the skid plates back on as i want to watch the drive way for leaks. The noise is not as predominant as it was before, oil pressure is slightly higher but that seems typical by just doing the oil change. I have a feeling as i believe this will be the 4th oil pressure sensor i have put on this truck. It reads the same on my obdII scanner as it does on the dash. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  8. I still have to drill out the rivet and clean up the front lip, but this is how "clean" i got everything. I already installed the windage tray and oil pick up tube. I must say that installing the pick up tube was a pain, i really hope i didn't pinch the new oring but time will tell i guess. I preoiled the oring and i would get the tube to "suck" down but i would need to move the pick up tube to get the mounting brackets on the studs. It took me probably 20 mins to get it back on and feel okay with how it went in. Overall this has been a not fun job but its doable. Ive been taking my time, but if i really put my mind to it or was getting paid i could probably do this in about 5 or 6 hours with some prepping. I wonder how much shops charge for this job. I broke out my pressure washer and cleaned off the gunk from my skid plate and my cross member. I hit the oil pan but i just have a cheapy electric pressure washer and it didn't have the power to clean the oil pan. Anyhow next post will be either good or bad news on oil pressure! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. It was ran on dino oil for about 130,000ish miles. I switched it over to synthetic in 2011, it may have gotten one or two or a few quick lube changes with castrol or quick lube synthetic, but i usually ran mobil 1 synthetic and changed it at 5,000 miles...... or if i felt like it had been more than a year since it was changed but it didn't get 5,000 miles in that year. This truck has seen a lot of city and highway driving. These last 20,000 miles have all been city stop and go miles around Florida, top speed usually around 50mph. This was my dads truck he bought new in 1999, before me the oil change interval is questionable, it probably got changed every 8,000 miles on dino oil before i got it. But during that time period it saw all highway miles of about 60ish miles a day on no hills straight roads. I also added cheap ebay cold air intake in 2011 and changed it to a name brand k&N filter later on. Cold air intakes let more air in while also letting in more dust and crap. Im not too surprised at the sludge, but it was more than i was expecting. My goal is to get another 2 years out of this truck as a daily driver and then ill go and buy a new vehicle and put this in the garage for a restoration. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. The cylinder walls look good and still have crosshatching, but SLUDGE MONSTER! I am going to clean everything as best i can without a parts cleaner on hand so just some brake clean. The sludge is everywhere! Im going to be running seafoam in the oil to try and clean out the engine a bit after this. Basically i didn't see excessive wear on the cam and really saw nothing besides sludge. Im going to send it, i don't have a check engine light, no codes or anything other than the oil pressure being low. Im going to slap it all back together and call it good as long as the oil pressure comes back, otherwise off comes the front end for a new oil pump. I didn't take a photo of the windage tray side facing the crank, but it had very little sludge compared to the bottom you see in the photos. Just remember 220,000 miles, about half its life on dinosaur and the other half on synthetic oil Did i mention my rear main seal is completely dry! Some good news lol New nick name: GRUMPY THE SLUDGE BOY! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. Its a cloudy hot humid day here in Florida. Pretty much spot on with the work I've been doing to this truck. Almost ominous/foreshadowing that im going to lower the oil pan and see something i don't like. Anyhow I Got the front differential lowered, about to start taking off oil pan bolts. Started at about 9:30a.m., currently 1pm. Ive also been taking my time and not rushing. I went and picked up a harbor freight electric wrench because why not. I don't do this enough to warrant buying the Milwaukee one and it was cheaper still with the warranty and one extra battery. I went ahead and got a new oil pressure sensor from autozone because its under a lifetime warranty and might as well have all new fresh parts so i don't ever have to touch this again hopefully! My oil leak is evident by the crazy oil caked crossmember and skid plate. Time for lunch! Cheers to 2021! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. First off Happy New Years!! Grumpy has developed the typical ticking/knocking sound at idle, I have 20 psi oil pressure which grumpyghost has been that way for the past 2 years or so. Tomorrow i will be dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pickup up tube o ring and leaking oil pan gasket. This is a 4x4 unit and its been leaking oil for years and years and years.....i have watched YouTube videos of how guys sneak the oil pan just under the diff. But something tells me it would just be easier to take the extra 20 bolts off the cv axles and disconnect the electrical and drop it out of the way. We shall see though! It will also let me look at the condition of the 220,000 mile 4.8l engine and determine if it will be okay for heads cam package in the very near future. Since this is a gen III 4.8l early rendition it has heads with the smaller intake valves and a complete head swap is really the way im looking at going as long as the bottom end looks alright. The Florida sun has wore down my clear coat and i didn't put in the time to wax my truck so the paint has gotten ugly! Also my original grill broke the rest of the way and i had to source a "new used" one so it has a chrome grill again. I also decided I don't like my 17" rims and tires and bought a set of stock 20" rims that are pitting and need sanding and i won't feel bad about painting them. Still looking for a deal on a 2001-2002 chevy Silverado HD hood for grumpy. BASICALLY ILL BE BACK TOMORROW WITH MORE PHOTOS AND HOPEFULLY NOT BAD NEWS! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  13. Grumpy got a new set of shoes. 265/70r12 Atlas crosswind ALL Terrains Not the big 33s I wanted but these were $427 delivered to my door and I got them balanced and mounted for $40. I'm going to save for new rims and tires. I thought these stock ones would grow on me but I don't want to paint the nice chrome black. I might try and do a trade on Facebook marketplace for someone who is looking to go back to stock rims and I pay cash or idk yet, but I needed tires and I don't want drop $2000 on a set up right now. Also last week my water pump blew a seal and was spitting water all over the engine bay on my 40 min commute to work one morning, I made it to work but the temps sky rocketed to 230°F. Anyhow I replaced that as well but its so hot here in Florida I didn't document it. Still haven't done the front brakes yet, I'll get to it eventually! Cheers! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  14. It went pretty easy! Channel lock on rubber brake line, loosen bolts holding brake caliper, brake free the brake line. Remove old caliper! The emergency brakes were a little bit to figure out how to remove the shoe, but after some finesse it was and easy swap with new parts, then I fit the rotor and adjusted accordly. I was also working on this in between rain storms as we had a tropical storm go right by us. But ultimately it was a pretty straightforward swap of parts, everything fit well, and i used a hand vacuum pump to bleed the brakes by myself. In the photos you can see how much bigger the new rotors are and i can definitely tell a difference in braking. Big improvement! Still waiting for the front calipers to come in the mail, I will document that swap as well! Until then, peace! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  15. Its all assembly and ready to go. The original bleeder thread pitch is m10 1.0, I was able to retap to m10 1.5 and found a bleeder screw to match. I ordered new banjo bolts and copper washers which will arrive tomorrow. In case yall are wondering I used vaseline to lubricate the pistons and square cut rubber rings before I reinstalled them in the caliper. I don't know for sure but I doubt just dot 3 brake fluid would have been sufficient to lubricate the rings and not tear them before installing the pistons which is not easy for most people unless you've done it before. Its all petroleum based fluids so itll be fine. I put antizeese on the new pin boots and pins before installing, I will aslo add some to the contact points of the brake pads on the caliper but am waiting until installation on my truck. Im considering doing the rear brakes after work one evening this week, we shall see what the hot humid Florida weather does. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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