imiller1974

I never found one, so I made my own. Welded a 3/8" bung and use a plug.

The word you're looking for is hygroscopic. And no it isn't.

They probably broke the connector mount by leaning and rest their arm on the fuse panel while changing the vacuum pump. Arm probably slipped off when they lost their balance, hit the connector and snapped the mount off. From what I'm told, most mechanics lay on the front of the truck, with their upper body in the engine bay. Unbolt the steering shaft, then can get to the vacuum pump bolts. When I pulled mine off, I removed it through the fender well. I removed the liner, then the steering shaft and it was easier to get to the bolts. But, mechanics are on a time crunch, so they lean over the engine bay.

I was planning on deleting the vacuum pump before I bolted on the supercharger. I was planning on drilling and tapping the intake manifold in the back. Screwing a NPT to barbed fitting and plumbing it to the brake booster. I just never got around to doing it. I think you should do it, I bet it'd work great...

When I bolted the supercharger on, there is an extra 1/2" port on the side that's not used. It's original intent is for hooking up vacuum to the brake booster. Qwank, on this site, gave me the idea. I bought the threaded plugs for deleting the vacuum pump. Cut the belt off, unbolted the pump, screwed in the oil plugs. Ran a 1/2" vacuum hose from the 1/2" port on the supercharger to the brake booster. I also Tee'd a vacuum canister into the line as well, incase there wasn't enough volume from the supercharger port. Works perfect, can't tell a difference in brake pedal feel or pressure, from stock.

I got my letter yesterday, threw it away. I don't have a vacuum pump anymore...

What's your plans for gear break-in, since you're in SC? I'm in Lancaster, SC, East Coast is in Raleigh, about 162 miles, one way.

Before this thread turns into another shit-show. I got quoted $2300, out the door for 3.73's from 3.08's by East Coast, in Raleigh. $2800 from a place in Charlotte, NC. Both places told me 4.10's would be close or the same in price. Labor was $100/hr for 9 hrs from East Coast, I don't remember what the labor was for the shop in Charlotte. I think your parts list and prices are comparable, for the different regions. I have the 5.3 with 6 spd and a TVS1900 supercharger. I'll probably get the 3.73's installed this year. Bottom line; it's your money, do what you want. I don't ask opinions from forums, because I don't really care what everybody else thinks. And you have no way of knowing who REALLY knows what they're talking about. Most people are ass-clowns anyway, me included... So, you do you, and F everyone else.

The only way to get proof, is someone needs to buy 2 of the same trucks, put a catch can on one, leave the other one stock. Drive both the same amount and the same way, put 20,000+ miles on both, then pull the intakes off and take a look at the valves. Until then, it's a pissing match and the thread/s blow up and people get pissed off either way. Shrug...

Yeah, I have the driveshaft for the truck, why would I post otherwise... U-joint is a 1415 AAM, nothing special or weird about it, has the same bearing caps as a 1410 and 1350, just the cross section is different. Can get them from Denny's driveshaft for $23.

I've been running a catch can on my truck since day 1. Empty it out once a week. I still had a puddle of oil in the bottom of my intake manifold when I pulled it off to bolt on the supercharger. There was still carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, not much, but some... Less than a 1/32" on some spots on the valve at most...

Like I said, it's the communication issues. The week or longer to answer emails. And I loaded SLP's tune, because y'all told me to load it, then download it into the EFI Live tuner and send it to you, so you could modify it. It hasn't been right since. It's better than it was... And, I understand that other, newer "paying" customers are going to be "seen" first. But, I paid upfront, for tuning, that y'all advertise as being able to modify as the customer makes changes in his/her ownership of the vehicle. It's the weeks and weeks of no answers, or not much of an answer to my questions/problems. We won't get into a pissing match on the forums, but I'll say this. I won't be doing business with you, again... and we'll leave it at that.

I've been having a heck of a time with communication with BBP. I'm looking to get my truck dyno tuned, because I'm just not happy with BBP. I talked to multiple people with the same issues with BBP. If you just do one tune, set and forget, then it might be the way to go. But, if you make mods, and need BBP to adjust, go another route... YMMV...

I have a SLP exhaust without the flex joint. Only thing I've noticed, is the exhaust "grows" toward the rear of the truck. The rubber hangers will be "leaning" 1/2" rearward after its been driven a while.

Doing it for me as well. Can't seem to open PM's either...