imiller1974

Before this thread turns into another shit-show. I got quoted $2300, out the door for 3.73's from 3.08's by East Coast, in Raleigh. $2800 from a place in Charlotte, NC. Both places told me 4.10's would be close or the same in price. Labor was $100/hr for 9 hrs from East Coast, I don't remember what the labor was for the shop in Charlotte. I think your parts list and prices are comparable, for the different regions. I have the 5.3 with 6 spd and a TVS1900 supercharger. I'll probably get the 3.73's installed this year. Bottom line; it's your money, do what you want. I don't ask opinions from forums, because I don't really care what everybody else thinks. And you have no way of knowing who REALLY knows what they're talking about. Most people are ass-clowns anyway, me included... So, you do you, and F everyone else.

The only way to get proof, is someone needs to buy 2 of the same trucks, put a catch can on one, leave the other one stock. Drive both the same amount and the same way, put 20,000+ miles on both, then pull the intakes off and take a look at the valves. Until then, it's a pissing match and the thread/s blow up and people get pissed off either way. Shrug...

Yeah, I have the driveshaft for the truck, why would I post otherwise... U-joint is a 1415 AAM, nothing special or weird about it, has the same bearing caps as a 1410 and 1350, just the cross section is different. Can get them from Denny's driveshaft for $23.

I've been running a catch can on my truck since day 1. Empty it out once a week. I still had a puddle of oil in the bottom of my intake manifold when I pulled it off to bolt on the supercharger. There was still carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, not much, but some... Less than a 1/32" on some spots on the valve at most...

Like I said, it's the communication issues. The week or longer to answer emails. And I loaded SLP's tune, because y'all told me to load it, then download it into the EFI Live tuner and send it to you, so you could modify it. It hasn't been right since. It's better than it was... And, I understand that other, newer "paying" customers are going to be "seen" first. But, I paid upfront, for tuning, that y'all advertise as being able to modify as the customer makes changes in his/her ownership of the vehicle. It's the weeks and weeks of no answers, or not much of an answer to my questions/problems. We won't get into a pissing match on the forums, but I'll say this. I won't be doing business with you, again... and we'll leave it at that.

I've been having a heck of a time with communication with BBP. I'm looking to get my truck dyno tuned, because I'm just not happy with BBP. I talked to multiple people with the same issues with BBP. If you just do one tune, set and forget, then it might be the way to go. But, if you make mods, and need BBP to adjust, go another route... YMMV...

I have a SLP exhaust without the flex joint. Only thing I've noticed, is the exhaust "grows" toward the rear of the truck. The rubber hangers will be "leaning" 1/2" rearward after its been driven a while.

Doing it for me as well. Can't seem to open PM's either...

It lowered it, I don't know how much, though. I'd like it quieter. The older I get, the less tolerance I have for loud exhaust. I want the flow, but stock sound.

I installed a 3" Vibrant resonator on my SLP cat back exhaust. I put the resonator in the stock location. Had to trim 1/2" off each end of the resonator. I clamped it, then welded.

I moved my mount to the cross brace near the brake booster. The coolant reservoir for the supercharger mounts to the secondary battery tray. I've switched to a FL400S since the filter is smaller.

Yes.

The dealer "replaced/fixed" it under warranty. It leaked again within a month of them working on it...So, I fixed it myself for the price of a tube of RTV/silicone. Remove the A pillar trim, grab handle, sun visor, and center upper console. Then you can pull the headliner down enough to get your hands above it. Unplug the 2 plugs, and remove the bolt that holds the ant bracket. I think its 10mm, but it might be 8mm, I don't remember. The bracket only goes on one way, so pay attention. Pull the ant out, clean the sheet metal. I took my ant apart and cleaned and dried it. I silicone the crap out of it, then reinstalled. Hasn't leaked since. I did the 3rd brake light as well, because it'll leak too. The "gasket" on both is foam. Foam gaskets WILL eventually leak. Good luck...

Addictive Desert Designs (ADD) makes the best looking ones, that I've seen. I know some meth heads, I mean welders from Fab Fours. I wouldn't run their sh!t on my truck. I think they're ugly anyway...

Aluminum here, funny groaning noises when cold in the morning. Otherwise, ok...