CbrownGT

Yes sir. Got them put on a month ago and they fit with no rubbing. Checked last week to see again and no signs of it occurring.

Thanks. Assuming you have no rubbing with this setup I would think/hope I can just do the bilsteins at 3rd setting and have no rub. Getting the tires on tomorrow at stock height and they should clear. But I’d love to level some as my 14 was leveled like this

Thanks. Is the Rugged off road spacer under the strut or on the top?

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA? Having a hard time finding answers on this

This is what I want to do. However, Any rubbing on UCA at all with this bilstein and tire size setup? Do you have the stamped steel UCA’s?

What tire and what size?

Interesting. I keep reading that many people rub with that size tire on stock 20’s when they level it at all with the stamped arms. I’m going with this tire size this week on my ‘18 with no level (yet). Still no rubbing? I’d love to go bilsteins at 1-1.8 inches but I’m afraid of rubbing the UCA’s. I’m hoping they’re gonna clear ok with no level but of course I’d love to raise it up some as well after

As the title says. Looking to go 275/60R20 BFG KO2 on my stock height 2018 crew cab standard bed max tow. I’ve searched and read through a ton of posts on here but have seen nothing recent. Seems that rubbing the sway bar or UCA won’t happen at stock height (only with level with stamped steel UCA). But I’m wondering about the wheel well liners or mud flaps since I do a good bit of driving on rough terrain. Thanks.

All depends on driving conditions and personal preference. I drive in a lot of dust for work. Clean my dry air filter 1-2 times a year and change my cabin air filter every fall, whether I drive 25k a year (I used to) or 12k a year (as I do now).

I know that under normal circumstances they typically have anything in stock you could be looking for spec wise. But has anyone ever ordered through them? Or know if they’ll take an order and give same/comparable discounts as the inventory on their lot?

It’s the sound of snake oil being vacuumed out ?

One thing to note with these swingcases .. if you’re gonna run a tonneau make sure it works with the swingcase installed. I have a tri-fold cover and I just have to swing the box out to latch and unlatch the cover. The latch on the swingcase can get seized up rather easily so just grab the PB Blaster every now to keep it easy on yourself unlatching and swinging it out.

Mine has 75k on it. It started shaking around 30k and has gotten progressively worse over the last 45k. I’ve gotten both sets of my AT LT tires road force balanced, 1 set on stock wheels, another on aftermarket (I use hub centric rings). I thought maybe the new coopers I got were the issue because they’re “blems”. But I put my Toyo’s back on and it still shakes. Also have a leveling kit. Shop and myself checked everything out in front end thoroughly. Nothing loose, no ripped boots, no traces of grease. I can add in that I wrecked at 27k and repairs included a full frame replacement. So the rebuild could also be a cause. I’m lost.

After trying thru firewall and getting frustrated I read this thread this is how I did mine as well. WAY easier than going through firewall. However, after I finished it all up I realized I had a brain fart and completely removed grommet and didn’t puncture thru it and instead fed my wire through the empty hole...really have no desire to go back and re-do it. I think I am going to just silicone it up.

Me and my '14 were in an accident Feb 2016 when it had 27k miles on it and the insurance company chose to do a full frame replacement. I have 52k on it now a little over a year later and have had ZERO issues, none. Heck I think it's better than it was before. All depends on the shop doing the work. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but too many just assume "it won't be right again". A new frame is better than a repaired frame (insurance companies love to try for frame repairs). Also, the insurance company is in the drivers seat, not you. They make the decisions. You really have zero impact on their final determination. They spent $27,000 to fix mine and it wasn't brand new.