CbrownGT

Yes sir. Got them put on a month ago and they fit with no rubbing. Checked last week to see again and no signs of it occurring.

Thanks. Assuming you have no rubbing with this setup I would think/hope I can just do the bilsteins at 3rd setting and have no rub. Getting the tires on tomorrow at stock height and they should clear. But I’d love to level some as my 14 was leveled like this

Thanks. Is the Rugged off road spacer under the strut or on the top?

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA? Having a hard time finding answers on this

This is what I want to do. However, Any rubbing on UCA at all with this bilstein and tire size setup? Do you have the stamped steel UCA’s?

What tire and what size?

Interesting. I keep reading that many people rub with that size tire on stock 20’s when they level it at all with the stamped arms. I’m going with this tire size this week on my ‘18 with no level (yet). Still no rubbing? I’d love to go bilsteins at 1-1.8 inches but I’m afraid of rubbing the UCA’s. I’m hoping they’re gonna clear ok with no level but of course I’d love to raise it up some as well after

As the title says. Looking to go 275/60R20 BFG KO2 on my stock height 2018 crew cab standard bed max tow. I’ve searched and read through a ton of posts on here but have seen nothing recent. Seems that rubbing the sway bar or UCA won’t happen at stock height (only with level with stamped steel UCA). But I’m wondering about the wheel well liners or mud flaps since I do a good bit of driving on rough terrain. Thanks.

All depends on driving conditions and personal preference. I drive in a lot of dust for work. Clean my dry air filter 1-2 times a year and change my cabin air filter every fall, whether I drive 25k a year (I used to) or 12k a year (as I do now).

I know that under normal circumstances they typically have anything in stock you could be looking for spec wise. But has anyone ever ordered through them? Or know if they’ll take an order and give same/comparable discounts as the inventory on their lot?

It’s the sound of snake oil being vacuumed out ?

One thing to note with these swingcases .. if you’re gonna run a tonneau make sure it works with the swingcase installed. I have a tri-fold cover and I just have to swing the box out to latch and unlatch the cover. The latch on the swingcase can get seized up rather easily so just grab the PB Blaster every now to keep it easy on yourself unlatching and swinging it out.

Mine has 75k on it. It started shaking around 30k and has gotten progressively worse over the last 45k. I’ve gotten both sets of my AT LT tires road force balanced, 1 set on stock wheels, another on aftermarket (I use hub centric rings). I thought maybe the new coopers I got were the issue because they’re “blems”. But I put my Toyo’s back on and it still shakes. Also have a leveling kit. Shop and myself checked everything out in front end thoroughly. Nothing loose, no ripped boots, no traces of grease. I can add in that I wrecked at 27k and repairs included a full frame replacement. So the rebuild could also be a cause. I’m lost.

After trying thru firewall and getting frustrated I read this thread this is how I did mine as well. WAY easier than going through firewall. However, after I finished it all up I realized I had a brain fart and completely removed grommet and didn’t puncture thru it and instead fed my wire through the empty hole...really have no desire to go back and re-do it. I think I am going to just silicone it up.

Me and my '14 were in an accident Feb 2016 when it had 27k miles on it and the insurance company chose to do a full frame replacement. I have 52k on it now a little over a year later and have had ZERO issues, none. Heck I think it's better than it was before. All depends on the shop doing the work. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but too many just assume "it won't be right again". A new frame is better than a repaired frame (insurance companies love to try for frame repairs). Also, the insurance company is in the drivers seat, not you. They make the decisions. You really have zero impact on their final determination. They spent $27,000 to fix mine and it wasn't brand new.

Thanks. I actually did some digging in the forum and found a previous part of this thread that listed a part number for just the plate, minus the factory brake controller switch. $14-16 depending where you buy. Here's a link to it with a price and picture https://www.tascaparts.com/oe-gm/22830877?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_eXEBRDP8fnIlJDXxsIBEiQAAGfyod40NB5-yy5_xqk7rDII1vX9DUu0DDS8Jp4EgpJYjisaAvlq8P8HAQ

Where did you get the brake controller plate from and how much? Also, how did you get the power for your switches to light up, like the words on the bottom part?

Can't go wrong with the RC mounting kit. It is super easy to install. Took me maybe 15 minutes to mount the hardware and the bar. On my invoice it said the mounting kit was $30-40 I believe. It's list price is $60-70. I have the black RC bar. I only went with it be because I had my chrome LT grille painted black so it blends in better, and I liked that the RC bar has a 3 year warranty (lots of salt used in western pa and I work in an extremely dusty and muddy work environment). You won't regret adding a light bar, it's awesome to have.

43,000 miles on my '14 Purchased October 2014. Driven it 22/24 months I've had it (was in shop for 2 months after wreck).

Hmmm. Sounds crazy. It didn't come on on my drive home. I will monitor it. If it happens again I'll mess with the battery cables. I'm not gonna act surprised that GM won't help or admit to a problem...kinda like the vibration issues. I think there's BCM issues with my truck too. Having issues with fuel gauge accuracy (dealer replaced sensor in tank and nothing changed). Only things on my key chain are a grocery store scan card, gym scan card, and 4-5 keys. 34k miles and this is the first time it's happened. I have 7k miles on it since it got 26k in repairs done from a crash.

As the title states, this light came on this morning and my truck wouldn't start. After shutting door and letting everything turn off I got it to start, but the light was on my whole drive. After it sat at work for 10 minutes I fired it back up and light is gone. I've read about it before, and that sometimes it won't ever start again unless you go to dealer. Any insight on this? Is it a possible battery issue?(I have HIDs hooked to the battery as well)

Tom Henry Chevy in on route 8 in Gibsonia

Read through the thread. Just started having hard vibrations at 70+ mph. 31k miles. I have 285/65/18 AT tires so there was already the slightest vibration, so I know there's an issue since I really felt it. Coffee cup was bouncing all over the place. So I have a couple questions: . I think I'm gonna try torquing down the u-bolts first. I have torque sticks for my impact gun so it should be easy. I drive on really really rough terrain for my job, so I question whether spring clamps and hardware would really hold up over time, especially with western pa winters and all the salt used. Anyone have an opinion on this? Honestly this is GM's last chance with me in the 1/2 ton market. My 09 was a problem..tranny went at 36k and burnt oil so I dumped it. We'll see how this '14 holds up (I've had some issues. Nothing bad until the vibration). if not I'll be going to the 3/4 ton route. I dislike the ford and ram 1/2 tons so I'd stay with GM since they're 3/4 tons are absolutely fine