Delta Hotel

Were/are the 6 speeds in the 15's a problem too? Wondering what's on my horizon as I have a 15' LT crew, 5.3 with 40k on it that seems ok, for now..... I can't afford problems.

Thank you Ryan! I ended up having a stereo installer fish wires thru with bad results. He used engine cover/hood release cable hole rendering release inoperable. Had to go back and he then slashed big grommet by master cyl and went that way. Had to patch with black RTV. Idiots. Top Tint of Savannah. Ok on window tint but they SUCK at wiring. Thanks again, Dave

After decades of racing motorcycles (Roadrace Superbikes, both air and water cooled) and sports cars, mostly European, I have never understood the rationale for extended drain intervals. Oil is cheap, motors, not so much. As for weights and brands of synthetics, as long as film strength and durability under heat load are present, the lighter weight oils are best, especially in cold climes. BUT, that is hard to tell... On brands, there is a great big reason why some oils are formulated to price points in what is a very hotly contested retail market place. I will say from racing and engine building over 30 years, that premium brand oils like Redline, Amsoil, Motul, Silkolene, and of late Royal Purple (RP) show marked improvement in surface wear, oxidization, and evaporation. Even a street car like an Audi Turbo of late, shows marked reduction in "coking" and oil evaporation deposits when one of the premium oils are utilized. HOWEVER, much of the above can be mitigated on a low stress engine like a V8 if frequent intervals (3-6k) are utilized. (but then savings, over a premium brand diminish) HTH and this has simply been my experience over 30+ years. DH

Bump for: Question is: Harness from Rigid is rather short and I am on the battery side with wires now so want to use passenger side door hinge grommet and was wondering how to get the plastic end panel on dash off to access wires once I push them thru the grommet. And.....passenger side grommet would work? Plastic end plate on dash, visible with door open, has no visible fasteners so not sure if I should just pull?? Thanks! Dave

I put a set of Rigid spots on my '15 Crew 1500 and used the tow hooks as mounting points for aluminum home made mounts. Works great until I get my PB400 push bar. (I'll post pics if anyone cares) Question is: Harness from Rigid is rather short and I am on the battery side with wires now so want to use passenger side door hinge grommet and was wondering how to get the plastic end panel on dash off to access wires once I push them thru the grommet. And.....passenger side grommet would work? Plastic end plate on dash, visible with door open, has no visible fasteners so not sure if I should just pull?? I too aborted on the idea of using the nipple on the big grommet by brake master cyl as I just couldn't figure out where wires would come in and was nervous of jamming a hanger thru that grommet.... Thanks for any and all input guys !! Dave

Kerrslight, I think I know, but can you confirm where exactly the "main rubber grommet" is on these 1500 5.3 (2015) trucks? I have multiple opinions and am hesitant to just start shoving coat hangers thru and risk damage. Thanks!! Dave

Thanks again Ryan and all. You guys rock. DH Thanks again Ryan and all. You guys rock. DH

Thanks Ryan and AJ, and 'OJ' ! Yeah, pics (Ryan, thank you!) help a lot and interested to know about the door hinge access too as I'll be adding a Setina PB400 w lighting as well soon. Much appreciated guys !! Dave

Thanks RAWYZF for the super quick reply! So the big round grommet on the firewall to the right of the brake master cylinder (if facing truck head on) is the one, to clip or pierce the nipple that's at 12:00 ? Use a coat hanger to fish thru maybe? Thanks again !

Hey y'all, sorry if this has been asked endlessly elsewhere, but I used the search function all over the forum and came up empty handed. I have a 2015 Silverado Crew, 6.5 bed, 5.3, LT model. Just added some Rigid LED driving lights and want them triggered independently thru a switch in the cab vs triggered by main or high beams, or fogs. Thus I need to run 3, 16-18 gauge switch wires thru the firewall with minimum damage if poss. There's a large rubber grommet next to master cylinder and I was wondering....? Any help, greatly appreciated. Thanks guys and gals! Great Forum, BTW! Dave

My 2015 had some frame rust and the parrafin/wax was flaking off. There's a TSB as some others have indicated and my Dealer (Del Chevy in Paoli, PA) took the truck back and put a rubberized petroleum style undercoating on it. Problem solved and if there's any little areas missed I hit it with Rustoleum Undercoating.

Equis24x, I have the same truck as you and thought of that but was unsure. Could you please clarify how you did that and where parts were sourced ? Nice job, btw !!! Dave