GrumpyGhost

Grumpyghost is still running really well. However!!!! I'm still running the hobbled together brakes. Its definitely safe to drive, but I am experienceing brake fade and one of the front calipers makes a nice clunky sound when you release the brakes occasionally. I finally have the 17" rims so its time to overhaul the brakes completely. I believe I have mentioned it before but I have a set of rear dual piston calipers I got from the junkyard to upgrade my current rear single pistons calipers. I am also ordering a new rebuilt set of the bigger front brake calipers that came on the trucks from 05-07 with drum rear brakes. They are also on the new body style trucks up until like 2015 or something but im not sure and didn't do the research. Im not replacing my master cylinder or vacuum booster. There is a hyro assisted booster and master cylinder upgrade that I don't see as necessary for better braking. Basically im going from 12" rotors to 13" rotors in the front and rear and bigger calipers all around amd it only works with 17" or bigger rims. I haven't decided if im going to order a new ABS module and fix everything or just do the caliper upgrade and call it a day. So the rear calipers I picked up at the junkyard, one has a remanufactured stamp and the other does not. I have decided to rebuild and paint them to match the black front calipers I ordered. Finding a rebuild kit to rebuild these was a nightmare but after literal hours and having to bust out my laptop instead of using my phone I still don't know if I ordered the correct kit. (^,^) I am getting rotors and pads from autozone as they honestly have the best prices. Ill probably get new emergency brakes shoes and parts while I'm at it. And the front rotors and pads come with the pre painted black rebuilt calipers I ordered. I included a current photo of Grumpyghost and as you can see my spray paint job on the front bumper is coming off from the bug guts. The roof has lost most of its clear coat and is starting to come off on the hood as well. I have a few ideas to fix this, but its not a top priority right now. I sold my mustang and now Grumpyghost is my only means of transport again. 21 years old and I would drive Grumpy across the country, but id probably do this next project first. That being said I will hopefully be tackling this project next weekend and I plan to do it similarly to when I did the rust repair years ago, take lots of pictures and show yall on here how I did it along with pages of useless information on why and how and where and probably go off on tangets of other stuff and things and stories that have nothing to do with brakes. (^_^) Also since I'm upgrading the brakes to stop better, that means this fall/winter its time to do some performance upgrades. transmission is starting to show its age. I will be changing the filter and fluid again while I'm working on the brakes. I need to start looking for a 6.0l and 4l80e trans to swap into grumpyghost. Anyhow more to come, cheers! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Itss done....................And then more stuff broke!!! After 2 days of nonstop hammering, torching, and angle grinding; the lower passenger ball joint finally released from the knuckle. As seen previously the drive side went smoothly, but it also had lots of residue from the front diff leaking and so everything stayed rust free. The passenger side was an entirely different story. Anyhow i got it all done and took it to tire kingdom where they charge normally $80ish dollars for an alignment and for tough alignments they charge $124. The steering wheel was way off when i took it to tire kingdom. But they are only a couple miles down the road so i didn't worry about making it perfect or close. Long story short they had an inner tie rod come loose when adjusting and called and said they wont align the truck without charging 1 man hour to go over all things and make sure they were tight since it was noticeable that i just replaced everything. So i said fine, 7 hours later and $223 the truck is done. Drive it down the road, its perfect, no weird noises, drive straight, no problems. I decided to drive home for Christmas and loaded the truck up for the 17 hour drive. Get about an hour from home and boom, i lost most of my brake pedal going 75mph on the interstate. I get stopped at a gas station as i had not lost all braking, go to my brake reservoir and find it almost empty. So i buy lots of dot 3 and limp home at 12am in the morning day before Christmas eve. Next day i find the passenger front brake caliper leaking from the piston. As youll notice in the pictures from previous posts, i decided not to paint my brake calipers because i told myself that after this trip i was finally going to upgrade to the better calipers, dual piston rear calipers, and the bigger front calipers from the 2005 and newer trucks. Long story short, parts store wants $70 per side and i knew for a long trip i would need to be safe and replace both, and then i decided to cancel my trip home to Indiana for Christmas. I still had a good Christmas here in Florida and the truck is sitting in storage until i save enough money to replace all my brakes at once because it just seems dangerous to go at it over time. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays and as always, sorry not sorry for the terribly long explanations of my trials with Grumpyghost Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Welp, i got the lower ball joint pressed out and while im waiting for the paint to dry i figured i say that this job sucks on the ground. I miss having a lift!!!! My back is killing me, yes im in my late 20s and ill be okay but im still going to whine about it! Ive lost most of my motivation already and im about 2 hours into this. Haven't started the passenger side as ill probably just start fresh tomorrow. So basically what got all this started is grumpyghost decided to break a ujoint that i had thought was a wheel bearing and just let it ride. Reguardless one wheelbearing is about shot and i broke a wheel stud taking off the tire so its getting a moog replacement anyhow. i needed the balljoint presskit rental from autozone to fix the ujoint and figured i might as well do this job "REAL QUICK LIKE". I am using a wire wheel on my cordless drill to clean the lower control arm and other parts that stay and are covered in 20 years of dirt grease and mostly rust. Im then doing some "REJUVENATION" with the old rustoleum black rattle can to make it all "NEW" again! I bought new bushings for the lower control arm but they just look a bit small, they probably fit but the original still look in decent shape and im going to save myself the trouble of trying to push a bushing out without an air compressor and air chisel hammer gun or a nice torch to melt the old one out if they don't budge. Im surprised i got the old balljoint out with just the balljoint press. Yes i know its designed for that specific purpose but the salt just does numbers on these usually simple jobs and i went into it hoping for the best and so far, probably eat these words tomorrow, its going like it supposed too. Cheers y'all, hope your not freezing, Florida weather is beautiful right now! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Grumpyghost update! I finally started the front end rebuild! More to come as this is ongoing but i figured id break the ice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Bought some new used stock 17" Chevy rims, they have 265/75/r17 tires that are in great shape for a grand total of $350 Eventually ill run 35" tires on grumpy but for now i cant pass up on good tires. I ordered some black bullet lug nuts as ill be Painting the rims black but this time do all the prep work so they last. Also going to run 2" wheel spacers just for sh**ts and gigs! As you can see my current tires have nails and terrible camber wear on them, they hold air so im still waiting till it cools down to "repair" the front end. Currently i am dealing with what i hope to be a bad sensor saying i have low oil/check engine oil level. According the the dipstick grumpy has plenty of oil. I need to change the oil pressure sensor to see if it really is plugged up like i think it is and not currently only running 18psi of pressure at idle, i remember it used to be 40 psi at idle. Its been saying 20psi for a couple years now. Well over 50,000 miles, but maybe my oil pump is going bad or my camshaft seal is cooked and i really have crappy oil pressure possibly causing the oil level sensor to go off. Kinda scary but ive been thinking happy thoughts! Anyhow idk if i mentioned that my abs module no longer operates and now i have a permanent abs light on. Not a big deal for me, i priced a remanufactured module at autozone and other stores, its roughly $400 to replace it. Id get one from a junkyard but they are supposedly vin locked or something along the lines of my truck being a half year from 99 and the module is different depending on the vin number ect. I used a scanner to confirm and checked my grounds. Last but not least the tailgate will no longer latch, i had to take the handle bezel off to gain access to the rods to latch the gate closed. New parts are in my Amazon wish list, i have yet to order them as for now it works kinda sorta, just a pain in you know what. This stuff literally broke or started acting up about 2 days after i purchased the new wheels and tires, (a week ago from this post) go figure! Oh and i found out i have a cracked washer fluid reservoir cause it wont hold fluid! I poured some in because my low light came on and it literally went straight to the ground as i poured it in. Its not a bad hose either i checked. Cheers to the trials of a 20 year old truck. Also i have the mustang as a backup vehicle so grumpy will get a good spa treatment as i build up all these parts that has taken up an entire shelving unit and corner of my garage. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Its been quite awhile since i have updated this thread, Grumpyghost has been doing great. However the original 20 year old balljoints are tired and has caused the front tires to wear pretty badly. I have been slowly buying up all the parts to rebuild the front end. Of course its all Amazon special parts besides the cv axles. I did not opt for the better moog brand stuff, i really doubt ill have a problem with this kit, even if i have to replace it again in 2 years its still cheaper than buying the moog stuff. Parts include upper control arms, sway bar links, lower ball joints, new lower control arm bushings, pitman arm, idler arm, and a couple other things i can't recall the name to. While i did rotate the tires i have since stopped because the front end is almost done. Im probably going to finally get different rims and tires so i can upgrade the front brakes to the 05 and newer bigger ones that require at least a 17inch rim size. Another problem that recently happened is one of my rear calipers is dragging, so in the next week or so i will be ordering (from amazon) ($218 special) the upgraded rear dual piston calipers with new rotors and pads. Currently has original single piston calipers. For the time being to stay on the road i bought autozone duralast gt brake pads that have a lifetime warranty, so i can swap them out whenever for free! (The gt pads are cheaper and better than the gold set because they are being discontinued by autozone, $23) I didn't catch the problem in time and ended up ruining the rotor from metal on metal contact. When i originally did the leveling kit about 2 years ago now, (time flies) i always intended to rebuild the front end within 6 months, needless to say ive put it off cause well, im a busy guy. Also ive had to rebuild my tool collection and have finally amassed the tools to do the job without it taking a whole weekend using only basic handtools. (Things like electric impact and similar associated tools to do the job like a real shop mechanic would). Another reason for the wait is the simple fact that the truck drives perfectly fine and i still don't necessarily feel it needs to be done immediately, but tire wear and the fact i can't get it aligned is reason enough. I still daily the truck, but i now own a cough cough ford mustang! So i don't daily it like i used to. I think the truck has like 210,000 miles now. Trans is still going strong and i never got around to adding a trans gauge. Its been hot here in Florida so i may still wait to do this "repair " until its cools down a bit, obviously the rear brakes are an immediate problem but i haven't been towing so imma send it! Cool tip: All brake pads at autozone have a lifetime warranty, so when your pads wear out, you take in your old pads and swap them out for free. Just make sure you have the phone number used to register them. As always sorry for the essay and carpe diem! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I need trains horns! I would use them daily here in Florida. Truck looks awesome! Glad to see I'm not the only one still driving a gmt 800 style truck. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The plastic cover for the gauges cracked like 8 years ago and I never did anything about it. TILL NOW! I was debating about a trans temp sensor and I really wanted to see if I could just install a trans temp in the stock location by getting another cluster and just stealing a step motor to put in the spot where the trans temp sensor goes on the stock 2500 diesel trucks or HD trucks. Anyhow after some research, I had already got a cluster from and 02 suburban before researching, that basically my truck being a 99 model year takes a special cluster because of the airbags. But also I can't just install a stepper motor and the other mods that are needed without sending the cluster off to get reprogrammed. So then I decided at least I can fix the broken plastic cover and maybe buy a custom back splash to make my cluster look cooler. Us speedo offers a kit for like $200 or so, I immediately said nah!!! I then decided to take the needles off the extra cluster and figured out a way to paint them blue and I think it turned out great! I also looked at the cluster and decided that I can add an aftermarket trans temp guage kn the original stock location fairly easily, so when j get some spare funds, I'll be getting a trans temp sensor and modding the cluster to fit and aftermarket sensor. Again sorry for the paragraph on a simple mod using stock parts! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well here it is in all her glory! She or it rather gets the job done. Not great by any means, but it's puurrtttyyy knarly for a piece of junk. All fun aside easy install after you figure it out since the instructions are unreadable and I didn't feel like looking it up on YouTube. It's self-explanatory really. Fitment is terrible, but it opens and closes like it should, doesn't draw blood if i set my arm on it, and for $28 I'm happy. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So I got this in the mail today, freshly shipped from China. I got if off Amazon, it was the $28 option with free shipping. You can definitely tell is a cheap console lid, but for half the price of basically the same thing with a bit better material doesn't seem worth it to me for my "Work Truck". Anyhow, I'm going to go install it real quick. Will post later again after installation. I was going to wait to get one of these but my current original broken lid ended up cutting my arm, more like scraped that caused a little blood to draw. So I went ahead and ordered this one like a week or so ago. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Found a 2002 Cadillac Escalade all wheel drive with the lq9 and a 4l65e at the lkq pull a part. I deleted my antenna on Grumpy and found this piece off of the Escalade to finalize the antenna delete. Anyhow the parts place says I can pull the engine and transmission out of the Escalade for like $500 or so plus tax. I am very tempted to do this. I was at the junkyard to get a new blower motor for my ac/heat as the one in mine had worn out as the bearings made scary noises haha. Anyhow I grabbed the blower and antenna piece and am probably going to go back this weekend to pull the steering wheel and clock spring out of the Escalade for the radio control buttons. I didn't take pictures of the blower install as it is a very awkward place to see and get too but also very straight forward. I opted for a used blower because the reviews on Amazon for the aftermarket new ones said they didn't "blow as hard." LMAO Cheers! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I really like the color matched grill. It would look even sweeter with some custom color matched headlights!! Awesome job! How did you dechrome the grill? I started to on mine and then got tired of it quickly and just sanded and etched primed it before paint. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I should mention that while I do live in Florida, I live by the gulf, and work along the golf and this truck sees and smells the ocean salt almost daily. It has been covered by sea water going over bridges many times. While it's not as bad as road salt from Indiana winter's. It is concerning enough to make me wash this truck almost every week. Also it sits outside and with the humidity down here, it is covered in dew daily Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Just gave Grumpy a bath, what you dont see in the pics is that the Bondo on the bed has shrunk in a few spots. But my hack and pack Bondo job on the driver side where I had a huge dent hasn't shrunk at all. The Bondo(filler) shrink I think is normal. I just need to get some 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper and sand down the clear a smidge to hide it. Then buff it all over again. Also the clear coat is chipping on the hood and the roof clear coat is almost gone. (Insert sad face) Also the cancer(rust) on the bottom of the passenger door and passenger rear door has gotten a little worse. I don't have a welder down here in Florida yet and even if I did, I don't think I could save the bottoms of the doors. There are a ton of GM extended trucks like mine in the junkyard here and I think I will just get some from there and repaint them. Lastly I included the frame which show how well the por15 attached to the rusty frame and makes it new again. No new cancer has shown up on the frame and I'm very happy about it. I think I will get some por15 and coat the leaf springs however as they are starting to rust in a few spots. I also keep telling myself this is a work truck, so to "patch" the hood and roof. I'm just going to put some vinyl wrap on it to keep it from ever turning into rust as I have said before. I'll get around to it eventually haha. Anyhow sorry not sorry for the book update on Grumpy. Basically just maintenance for now. I have been looking for a front bumper from a 2003-2006 GMC Sierra. I like the look of those bumpers better plus the inside of my front bumper is very rusty. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I finally got my mirror wired up. I got the 20 guage wire the mirror uses from a 2002 suburban from lqk or lkq, whatever it's called. (Junkyard/pull a part place, cost me 20 mins and $12) Someone had already taken the entire dash out of the burban so I was able grab the original wiring that goes to the mirror and sensor. Well most of it, I cut it at the firewall and just used the orange and black power wires that power the interior dome lights on the ceiling of the burban. I found a thread on here where someone else had done the mod and improvised from there. I removed like 3 wires from the plug for the mirror and hooked up the power to 10amp ignition fuse on the dash fuse box. Then grounded it to the dash. Then I ran my sensor wire through the firewall and hooked up the sensors in the exact same location I pulled it off of the suburban. I removed the reverse wire and the 2 side mirror wires. The auto dimming works perfectly, I guess it just won't shut off when in reverse like it's supposed too, but honestly how many times will I actually need that function. (It's a gentex model 177 mirror with 7pin plug for reference) Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Awesome job, seems to be going pretty quickly for ya. I wish I would have replaced my hinge assemblys when I did this job though. The hinge pins from any auto parts store seem to wear out pretty quickly. Although my experience is from having to fix my driver door after someone backed into while it was open and ripped it straight forward Tommy boy style. I replaced my pins 2 times in a years time, then took it to a body shop where they charged me $300 for the job to bend the hinges and install the threaded pins with a nut to hold them in place. I later interned at a body shop and learned that those threaded pins are the best option for a cheaper fix, but a new hinge assembly is way better. It's not a job for the weary though. I did a few of them while working there and it was nerve racking. The new assemblys come with nut and bolts to install where you drill out the huge three spot welds from the factory that hold the hinges in place, but we were also a restoration shop so we went ahead and welded the new hinges in place. Can't test fit the door until you have it decently welded in place to hold the weight, so we had to be spot on the first try. Anyways, keep up the good work! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I forgot I did this as well. I removed the drl sensor that mounts on the dash pad when I replaced my heater core about 2 years ago because it wasn't working anyhow. So since then my headlights always came on no matter what and I couldn't turn them off without first engaging the parking brake. Anyhow awhile back I tried to find the wire loom that connected to the drl by removing the radio and couldn't find it. So recently I removed the dash pad and found it lying ontop of the heater ducting. I then found a resistor I had lying around for my led conversion and popped it in the connections for the drl. Boom! I now have control over my headlights but have lost the automatic feature. No big deal as I have never liked the automatic headlights and it will take some getting used to, but I just have to remember to use my headlight switch to turn them on. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I just saw this today, I was under the impression that you wanted to use bed liner on the inside of the rockers before you welded the inner and outer rockers together. For that I would only use por15. The outside after it's all back together, I still wouldn't hesitate to use por15, but bed liner will do just as well, just a bit harder to clean. I take my truck to a good carwash and get the undercarriage pressure washed. As long as you do something along those lines to keep that area clean, I wouldn't worry about it rusting through again for a long time. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Oh I forgot to add this to last post, but I also did the antenna delete mod to my truck. I still get all the stations I want to listen too like 102.5 the bone with Mike calta and so on. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I went to Walmart and bought the cheap black magic 5% window tint for $12 to run a brow across my windshield. I thought I could do it myself as I did the side windows in 20% back in highschool before I even knew anything on how to do window tinting. How hard could it be!!!!????? It's a pain, but mostly I think it was difficult because the product was so crappy. It's wavy and you can see its not straight at all. Living in Florida I got tired of having to put my sun visor down all the time to block the sun. This tint has fixed that issue but it look like crap. I will have all my windows done professionally in the future but for now I'm just leaving it like it is. My center console has finally broken and I'm trying to not buy the $60 replacement topper from Amazon that I see in all the center consoles because it is common for them to break. I'm surprised this one has lasted as long as it has. I want to find the center console that is not a seat and get rid of the crappy one. I have found many center consoles like the one I want, but all of them have been tan. Go figure! I'm sure one will pop up at lkq eventually. Lastly I got the rear view mirror that has the direction and temp on the mirror. I also grabbed the temp sensor that mounts behind the grill. This is also from a 2001 suburban. I have not had the time to find a wiring diagram to wire this up, but it will be coming in the future, for now I just have the mirror mounted and has been a reminder I need to get it done. First I need to go back and pull a wiring harness from one of the chevy suburbans to have a bunch of wire to use to run the sensors and power wires for the mirror, also pulling the wiring harness is cheaper than going to a hardware store and buying wire. Plus it'll be color coded like the factory wires! Bonus!!! It a very time consuming job and I'll get to it eventually. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So I have done a few things to the Grumpy and I decided to group each project into different posts over the coming days/weeks when I find the time to sit down and write these novels of posts. Anyhow if you all saw my post awhile back of my hack job to replace the actuator motor for the passenger door lock, it failed. The hot glue I used along with the soldering iron to melt the plastic did not hold up. The motor slipped and would not unlock and it was only half a victory as it still would not lock the door, only unlock. I have been scavenging the local lkq pull apart yard every once in awhile to find "upgrades" for my truck and decided to pull the door lock assemblys out of a 2001 suburban for both passenger and driver side. I didn't post pictures of the new lock assemblys but only the old ones I took out. The white motor is the passenger assembly and the black motor is the driver side assembly. They are identical to the "new" ones. I found out that my original driver side assembly was completely broken in half and causing the computer to read as the driver door being open all the time. I also found that I had to bend some metal on the driver door where the new assembly goes because it wouldn't fit. The door was so out of whack from way back when when I had my accident of the driver door almost being ripped off. I had to readjust the striker and also found I had it mounted backwards from when I took it off to paint the truck. I spent probably an hour and a half trying to figure out why my driver side door would not latch after replacing the assembly. I was having washers and adjusting like crazy to get the door to close. But it's all good to go now! So as I have said before, I have had to use the dome override switch for the last 4 years or so cause the interior lights would stay on. Also my radio would shut off instantly after turning the key off instead of staying on until a door is opened. All that is fixed now and my interior lights work like they used too or are supposed too. So I got the driver side fixed and locking and unlocking using the buttons on the arm rest. Yes finally!!! Then I do the passenger side which took about 15 mins. But I came to find it still will only unlock and not lock. So either the assembly I pulled is bad like my original, or I have a wiring issue somewhere. Something tells me it's a loose wire somewhere. Sad again. The day was getting late and I just threw the truck back together and have not touched it. I did however rediscover that my truck locks the door after it hits 20 mph and what's it like to have interior lights at night. The sweet life!! Almost!! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Looking good, I wish I had a 4 door, would have made the job so much easier! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I haven't posted on here for awhile, but here are some photos of my upol raptor liner. It has held up wonderfully and I haul scrap metal and such with sharp edges all the time. It does leave a white mark in the liner when something scratches it, but it hasn't come close to wearing through to the paint underneath. I ended up having to replace my TPS sensor and that also cleared up my transmission issues. I did go ahead and do a filter and fluid change to the transmission as well. I have a ton of parts sitting at the shop for the truck, but it has been running so well lately I haven't found a reason to take it out of commission to do maintenance. My original starter finally went out and I replaced it with a cheap Chinese Amazon starter for $65. Other than that it's been running well and I drive it almost everyday. I have noticed that my oil pressure has dropped down to 18-21 psi, but it has done this before and I replaced the oil pressure sensor to fix it the first time. I'm guessing it's leaking again or it's clogged up somehow. Or my oil pump is going out but let's hope it's not that! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I remember doing rust repair on my truck. It was a real PITA but I'm glad I did it. I would also be prepared to do some repair work on your front fenders. My driver side had rusted through to where the fuse box mounts. Also I wouldn't waste your time with rhino lining the inside of the rockers. Just get some por 15. The rhino liner will hold more salt and dirt, and get in the way of welding on your new rockers. Plus rhino liner will just peel off after it gets hot from the welding which is where the rot will start in the first place. I used weld through primer for my spot welds. After I got everything painted I repainted the welds and then covered them with urethane caulk where I could get to. Also did I mention por15, it is awesome stuff. Clean up rusty areas as best you can then cover it with por15 as it is designed to adhere to "clean" rust. I only used a quart of por15 and it goes a long way. I did a build thread on it awhile ago and need to post in it again as I have done more to my truck but life has just been hectic lately. Good luck with your rust repair and I'll be following along for sure! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

What's to come over the holidays for Grumpy! Can I save my transmission? I hope so! I have a hard shift from first to second. It has always been a little sluggish, but recently it has gone from occasionally noticable to every single time I take off. I'm going to be replacing the 1-2 accumulator, filter change, and possibly install Corvette servo. I haven't done all the research on the Corvette servo yet, but im only gunna install it if I don't have to reprogram the trans for it. Also I'll be doing other maintenance I mentioned in my last post. As I've said many times before, I'm no expert, but I've read here and there that this is a common issue on the 4l60e trans and a "simple" fix. I also heard that if not fixed early on the clutches probably won't live much longer. So I hope not, but ill probably be doing a 4l80e swap within the next 6 months or so. Hopefully longer. Im basically waiting for the trans to go out before I start doing my "junkyard" mods to Grumpy. But I also figured i'd have more time as well. Like next Christmas. I found a place that has rebuilt 4l80e transmissions for $850 plus a $200 core charge. But I don't wanna drop that kinda cash just yet. Also the torque converter I'd need for my stock engine will not be favorable for a turbo. I suppose I could go ahead and do a cam swap and solve that issue. But I also could just pick up a used 4l60e for $400 bucks and save my money till I'm ready to do the major build. Decisions decisions! I'm also kinda on the lookout for a complete 6.0 with the trans since my 4.8l is a first year gen III and the rods aren't as strong and doesn't have floating pins. Plus I mean, who doesn't want to 6.0 swap their truck. Any tips or input/info on this subject would be greatly appreciated. (The trans issues stuff, not the swapping of trans and whatnot) As always sorry for the book and enjoy your Christmas shopping! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk