Not sure if this will help but this is my experience with filing for Lemon. i have both a 2014 and 2017 Silverado, my 14’ has that same clicking noise. Had it within a year of purchase. GM couldn’t find the issue and Lemon Law attorneys wouldn’t pick up the case because it wasn’t part of anything vital. No check engine lights or anything so there wasn’t evidence that this was any hard to the trucks life expectancy. With my 2017, month after I got it I would get a check engine light about 5 more times for O2 sensors and truck would go to limp mode only driving 15mph. I was able to file for lemon law, but once the dealership where I purchased it from caught wind, instead of putting on the papers that they replaced my O2 sensors they would put something else.. like replaced throttle body to address the issue.. which they did replace but did not fix it. So my attorney said they could not get the truck replaced but rather got me a lump some of money for my “losses” i eventually took it to another dealership which fixed the fixed the issue turning out to be the wiring harness that connects to the O2 sensors. In order to file, you need to have all documentation to present to the attorney if they pick up your case. Now if they do pick it up and you happen to get the lump some like I did and then the problem still occurs, know that it’ll be difficult to continue addressing it because you accepted the compensation within the statue of limitations for the civil issue.
I have, Ive bought two styles. One with a single led and one with multiple led’s in the housing. The one with the single led didn't come with any sort of manufacture sealing around the led. The one with multiple led’s did. Both still got condensation. Ill probably redo the wiring again and change silicon brand.
Nice. Only advice I can give you (not that you’re asking for any) is to make sure it’s sealed up well with a flexible gasket. I did this a year back and have gone through 2 sets of lights due to condensation. Might just be the type of lights I got but it’ll eventually get some condensation in there.
I had a similar issue with my 2018, had it for a month brand new and had gotten 4-6 check engine lights within the first 3,000 miles. I ended up going through a lemon law attorney to sue. I actually won. id say get in contact with one if they don’t want to do anything about it or attempt tomacomidate you with a different vehicle of equal value.
If you’re not trying to break the bank, go with the OEM. If you’re mechanically inclined, change it out yourself making sure to mark on the current LCA for alignment purposes. Then just take it to an alignment shop. not difficult to do.
I went with a 285/60/20R. The 1/4 spacer was mostly for clearance since I kept stock wheels. Track is still stock looking, even with the “oversized” tires, I’m still flush with the fenders. It’s been a while since stock but if it means anything, it’s still as smooth, it’s not too rough or stiff. A little depending on load. I chose this kit because I still tow and didn’t want to lose all functionality (torque for the most part).
Good evening, Here’s my 2 cents on the Rough Country 3.5 Knuckle Lift Kit on my 2017 Silverado 1500 Z71. I’ve been driving on it for the past 20k miles and haven’t had an issue. The ride quality is nice, nothing out of the ordinary. I did not option to change the front shocks , just the rear ones. The lift kit was very easy to install. Key things to watch out for are the front differential drop spacers, they are the most difficult thing to get in place. Also, I’ve seen on other forums that people have been leaving the front diff cooling fins in “thinking” that it won’t need to get cut because it “doesn’t make contact with the cross member.” Yeah.. BS, I thought the same but the cooling find do actually touch the cross member, so make sure to cut them off to avoid miss alignment of your CV axel with your front diff. Rear blocks and shocks are straight forward, make sure you place the blocks on the correct way with the taper or “ skinny “ end to the front. Measure them out to find that smaller side. If not you will get shaking while you break at about 25mph and under due to the drive shaft and rear diff universal joints not being at the required angles. the kit does require a 1/4” spacer for stock wheel, get it, if not you will be rubbing on your upper control arm. The included Knuckle addresses the upper control arm and CV axel angles. They’re not at an extreme angle, they look like stock angles if not damn near it. I have disassembled my whole suspension again to check the ware on the ball joints and they are still looking good and do not hear any popping sounds from the suspension, or abywhere else for that matter. If you’re looking at getting your truck lifted and don’t want to break the bank and get some ground clearance, I think this is a very nice option. https://imgur.com/gallery/5O8DW1V
I’ve used those cans of air used to clean keyboards and I’ve had one that had a small piece of dented in it that caused it to throw a code, I just used a small pick ( snap on sells good pick set for things like these) and knocked it off and the code went away. yeah you’ll smell fuel if you’re putting any vehicle in the garage. Fuel carports still escape though the cat converters. When i I first purchased my truck, I had the issue where I’d get a fault code from all 02 sensors and I had the dealer swap them out. Been fine ever since.
Go to an auto parts store, ask for a quick diagnostic ( should be free ) rent the special socket to replace the 02 sensor before spending so much money at a go. and like one of the above users said, check your MAF sensor on your intake tubing and if you see the smallest of dented on it. Clean it, they’re very sensitive.
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