That's a nice truck! You need to check out more than just the pitman and idler arms I think. The play you describe could also be caused by bad wheel bearings or inner/outer tie rods. The ball joints should be looked at too. I'm not sure exactly what your rig has but go to YouTube there are good videos on how to check to see if these parts are bad. You don't want to suddenly lose control of your vehicle.
Don't be embarrassed, we've all probably done much worse. Glad you followed this up, I was following this and curious myself. I've read a lot of folks say the ECM usually isn't the problem, as they really really don't go bad. You're right though, there's a reason that it blew. Which fuse is it?
Brandon5778 replied to troverman's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDWell I can answer one of your questions. Are you good with a soldering iron? You can fix your instrument cluster pretty easily. They don't sell new ones anymore (you could get a rebuilt one from gm for $500) and unfortunately the mileage is stored in the cluster. Most people will send them to someone through eBay to have them repaired costing $150-200 and a few days turnaround. You can buy a kit online to rebuild it including lights and new stepper motors, which will eventually also fail if you haven't replaced them yet. In my case, like you the mileage sometimes didn't show. It progressed to the point where it would never power up. I took it apart and took the board out into the truck and plugged it in. Using something nonconductive (I used an eraser) I started lightly touching different parts on the board itself. There were 2 little resistors, as soon as I touched them the whole thing powered up. I added a few drops of solder and it has been good as new since. Here's a video showing what I am talking about. In my case it was the same exact 2 resistors in this video, and others in the comments said the same thing. You can save a lot of money doing this one yourself..
I just had this problem on my 04. It was the vent solenoid. In my case instead of replacing it I popped it off the truck and just let it hang under there by the tubing. There is a cap on the thing that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver. I then brought the air compressor hose under there and blew it all out, it was very dirty and found even small rocks in it. I would try this before spending any money on parts. Here are a few great reads that I found on this forum on the subject you should find them informative.
Thanks for your input. I bought my truck because I tow my boat a lot during the summer and to use as a daily driver. I understand the purpose of a 3/4 ton truck. But I also just like the truck, and looks are important to me. I simply don't like a whole lot of rake. Thanks for letting me know there is no blocks from the factory, I will be taking mine out. Do I need to buy new u-bolts and hardware or can I just run with what's in it now? They'll just stick down lower, right? I also added another picture to show a better perspective of how much higher the rear end is. I measured the fender height and the back is 3 inches higher.
Sorry if this has been posted I can't find anything on it, probably using wrong search terms.. I have an 2004 2500hd and I am trying to get a leveled look. When I bought the truck the guy let me have some aftermarket keys that were not installed to "level" it out. He also said the rear was lifted 2 inches with blocks. After my own visual inspection the factory keys are cranked up quite a bit, but my CV angles are not very bad at all. After doing a lot of research I am just going to sell the aftermarket keys that I have because I just rebuilt my front end and I know how much stress it puts on everything if you crank it up higher with different keys. Instead I'll save up for a proper lift kit in the future. For now I want to leave the front with the factory keys cranked (about an inch and a half) and drop the rear the 2 inches back to factory. This will leave me with an inch of rake for towing. My questions are: 1. It seems like all I need to do is remove the blocks in the rear, can I still use the U-bolts that are installed now, or do I need new hardware? 2. I've read a lot about these trucks having factory blocks installed, but I think it was just the 1500s they were talking about. Should my truck have any factory blocks in it? If so is it OK to run without them? 3. I'm planning on getting new shocks as mine are factory with 125k on them. With the front leveled how it is now would I want to order the bilsteins with 0-2 inches of lift for the front? Here is my truck as it sits now.
Nice truck. The 8.1L is a gas towing machine. On the exhaust leak, take a look at your exhaust manifold and look closely at all the bolts, I'll bet you that one or more is broken. You mentioned a little rust underneath, how are the brake lines? Fuel lines?
I don't own a 16+, but I've passed many on the road at night. Gotta say guys those lights really do blind you. I'm young and have excellent vision and still have trouble seeing passing by trucks with those. But now half the new vehicles have some sort of LEDs so you kind of just get used to it. Maybe some of these trucks need their lights adjusted? For what its worth I have LEDs in my '04, but I've never been flashed.
That '89 has far fewer things that can go wrong with it than a new truck. Reliable and cheap to fix. Keeping a few cheap extra parts and a toolbag in the cab and you can get out of most break downs on the side of the road. But it sounds to me like you have already talked yourself into a new truck. I would get a new truck myself.
Brandon5778 replied to FixitNick's topic in Vehicle BuildsHi Nick I just wanted to let you know I've been following your videos since you started on this truck and they're great. Nice look with the 35s! The young one is going to make a great DIYer someday. I would have also roasted my old tires.
I can attest to this as I just got done replacing all of my brake lines with stainless steel on my 04. However they are still very reliable trucks. My dad has a 2000 with the 5.3 that's got 312k on her that's been beat to hell. It still runs perfect though and he drives it daily. The weak point is the 4l60 tranny. Get a 2500 with the 4l80 and don't worry about a transmission rebuild every 100k miles.
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