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2008LMGvortec

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About 2008LMGvortec

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  1. That explains it, I have only rebuilt a 1979 403 olds engine twice, and a 1994 saturn engine. I am reading that zinc additive is a bad idea because it can damage the catalytic converter. Is this true, should I not use zinc?
  2. Does the 2008 Silverado 5.3 LMG engine have a roller cam? Thanks for the response. EDIT: I am looking at a spec sheet and it says hydraulic roller, you are correct, thanks I wasn't aware.
  3. There are a lot of varying opinions online regarding engine break in. Wondering what you guys think. I have a lmg 5.3 goodwrench crate engine installed this weekend. The procedure I am using: 1) Once the oil preluber gets here I will use that to prime the engine oil with regular (non synthetic) Mobil 1 5w-30 and zinc additive. 2) Fire it up and run between 2,000-2,500 rpms for 30 minutes under no load to break in the cam 3) Go for 5 medium acceleration runs 20-60 mph, and then 5 hard acceleration runs 20-60 mph 4) Change the oil and drive normally (no extended highway trips) for 500 miles 5) At 500 miles change the oil and consider the break in complete Thoughts, Comments?
  4. Truck: 2008 Silverado 1500 5.3 LMG engine First, is a 5.3 LMG engine classified as a Gen III or IV LS engine? Would this fit my Truck? Massive Speed Engine MADE IN USA! Lift Plate GM LSX LS1 Hoist Picker Crane 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 7.0 Gen III IV LQ4 LS2 LS3 LQ9 LS What is the best way to remove an engine? I see in the FSM it says to use a J4179 (lift bracket). I see there are lift plates like the one above available. is there a place that the attached lift chain can be safely bolted on without the J4179 lift bracket? So which of the following options are best for my application: 1) Just a lift chain (such as the one attached) bolted to the engine. 2) J4179 lift brackets with a lift chain. 3) Lift plate.
  5. Would "all" include: Coolant temp sensor Oil pressure sensor Knock sensor Cam position sensor Crank Position sensor MAP sensor Did I miss anything, do you think any of those are unnecessary/easy to replace later?
  6. 2008 Silverado 5.3 LMG has a knock at 160k miles. I have decided to go the route of a Goodwrench remanufactured long block. It says that it includes oil pan, timing cover, harmonic balancer and gasket kit. I will swap over all the main parts from the old engine intake manifold, valve covers, accessories, etc. What I am not sure about are sensors (knock sensors, coolant temp sensors, etc.), which sensors can I transfer to the new engine and which should be replaced? Any other parts you might suggest replacing would be appreciated, I don't want to be stopped in the middle of the job because we forgot a part.
  7. Truck: 2008 Silverado 1500 5.3 Vortec vin "0" LMG I am looking at swapping in a used 2010-2014 salvage engine. Does it matter what year of engine I swap in as long as it is an "LMG"? Will I have to flash the computer or anything? Thanks for the help!
  8. Hmm, I will kneel the car, I don't have a vertical hoist, but mine may be a long reach. correction, 160k, I was guessing. We are going to buy a used engine and swap them, going to start a new thread regarding this.
  9. Truck: 2008 Silverado 1500 5.3 Vortec vin "0" LMG ~200k miles Situation: My dad's truck was severely low on oil and developed a knock. My solution (bad idea?): First, perform a compression test to make sure he doesn't need a full rebuild. If compression is good I am thinking of having crankshaft machined, replace all the bearings, and replace the oil pump. The question is: Can you replace the crankshaft without pulling the engine? If the engine is out I am thinking you might as well swap it. If the engine has to be pulled do you have to drain the freon from the a/c? (If there is a DIY for engine removal I would appreciate a link) Any thoughts or advice are appreciated.
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