Grubbworm

Apparently, I somehow broke the connector off the end of the wire going to the Coolant Temp Sensor. I ordered a replacement from Rock Auto and installed it. Now my temp gauge is working again. Another issue fixed.

Here is a picture of the Oil pressure sensor hole. I have the new screen in it. Apparently, it will not fit in there with the sensor. I checked and double checked to see if the old one was still in there. There was none in there. So, I just put the new sensor in there and plugged it in and everything works fine now. Another issue fixed.

For my next two issues, I am replacing the Oil Pressure Sensor, and repairing a broken Coolant Temperature Sensor plug wire harness.

Ok, this job is finished and no more exhaust manifold leak sounds. Also, all of the broken bolts have been replaced along with the non-broken ones. Also, new Mahle gaskets. Now on to the next project.

Okay, so I have been sick for a week and have not been able to work on the truck. I got back to it on Sunday. And, with a little help from my son, we were able to get both of the stuck/broken bolts out. We did use a 110v cheap welder on the driver's rear broken bolt. It took him more than several tries to get it to work properly. In his defense, the welder has been sitting in storage for more than 20 years and the cable was all twisted. Which did not allow the wire to feed properly. But he finally got it to work enough to get the job done. I started putting the passenger side back together and it is mostly done. Next up is the driver's side prep and reassembly. Using copper anti-seize and new Fel-Pro coated bolts.

I have 4 broken exhaust manifold to head bolts broken. One on the driver's side and three on the passenger side. From what I have read this is a common occurrence for this engine. All but the back one on the driver's side were protruding from the heads. I got all of those out with minimal issues. Now I have to move on to the difficult one in the last rear hole on the driver's side. That one is broken off inside the head, just below the surface. The heat wrench and air impact gun helped me remove the exhaust flanges. Kroil helped me remove the exhaust manifold bolts that were still holding the manifolds on. I have purchased some stainless steel bolts from RockAuto to replace them all with. I have been working on this all weekend. I had the passenger side ready to go back together and ended up snapping the head off of the last stainless bolt in the rear. Now I have to take it back apart and start all over again. I will measure the new and old bolts to see if they are the same length. Well the new bolts are 30.7mm and the old ones are 30mm. I guess I will order some different new bolts that are 30mm. The new, new bolts are not stainless, but do have a corrosion resistant coating. I think I will use a tap and chase out the threads on the heads also. As for the Driver's rear broken bolt, I think I will try to weld a nut on the end and use some heat on the head to get it out. We will see if that works.

Brakes are done. Cleaned out the master cylinder the best I could. Changed and bled all brake fluid. Adjusted the parking brakes. Everything works great now. Now on to the next project.

It does suck to spin it the wrong way. But it is as adjusted as it is going to be for right now. I have everything done and it rides and stops good. My wife wants me to clean out the master cylinder and fill and flush again with all new fluid. I guess that is another project for another day soon. It looks like I have issues with some broken exhaust manifold bolts too. And yet another project.

You could also get a 6.0 out of a HD truck at a junkyard and rebuild it before you pull yours, then do a swap.

I replaced all of the brake parts this weekend (Pads, Calipers, Caliper Brackets, Rotors, and Hoses). I did not need any of the parking brakes or hardware. Those looked like new. I just cleaned them up and attempted to adjust them. I also bled the brakes. It appears that there is still some air in the system and I will need to bleed them again. I will also need to adjust the parking brakes more. I may also need to check the parking brake cable for any wear issues or adjustments. The NEW rotors are just as thick and heavy as the ones that were on there. The NEW caliper pistons looked to be slightly larger than the old OEM ones. The old rotors look like they could be turned and still have life in them. The old pads had half life left on them. Everything but the old pads looked to be OEM original. The truck has about 180,000 miles on it. I got it with about 160,000 miles on it. All that I know about it is that it was a work/fleet truck for the local EMC company. We do towing and 4-wheeling with this vehicle so I figured it was time for some maintenance and an upgrade. Adjusting the passenger rear parking brake is a real pain. I will need to buy another short to medium screwdriver or maybe a brake spoon to adjust that side. The adjustment hole is at the top and the leaf springs are in the way. I see no leaks and other than some adjustments everything seems to be working fine.

I would start with the fuses, check all of them. I would also check ALL of the relays, with a relay tester. I just dealt with a similar issue with my wife's car. Turns out it was a relay going to an option that was not available on her model car. The relay for the "Bose Speaker/Woofer" was the culprit. I had a U0101 Code, Not communicating with TCM. As luck would have it the CAN (Controller Area Network) also runs through this circuit. Replaced relay and issue fixed. This was not on a GM vehicle, but the principle remains the same. P.S. I got my Relay Tester off Amazon for about $12.

I am going to do a complete brake rebuild on my truck. We have been towing a motorhome for several years now and feel that it is time to do a complete brake overhaul. I would like to be pro-active since the truck has over 170,000 miles on it and we do not know when any of the parts were previously replaced and with what quality. I am going to put a Power Stop Kit #KC207336 on it. I am also going to replace the Brake hoses with some AC Delco ones. I will also replace the rear parking brake shoes and hardware with Power Stop #B771 shoes and Dynamic Friction #37048001. I will also flush the brake fluid and use some 5.1 synthetic Bosch fluid. I am getting all parts from Rock Auto. I will re-visit this post with updates and pictures when I get everything and get started.

More Information for DYNOMAX 17537 (rockauto.com)

I would start with the fuses, check all of them. I would also check ALL of the relays, with a relay tester. I just dealt with a similar issue with my wife's car. Turns out it was a relay going to an option that was not available on her model car. The relay for the "Bose Speaker/Woofer" was the culprit. I had a U0101 Code, Not communicating with TCM. As luck would have it the CAN (Controller Area Network) also runs through this circuit. Replaced relay and issue fixed. This was not on a GM vehicle, but the principle remains the same. P.S. I got my Relay Tester off Amazon for about $12.

Hey Aaron, I have a 2004 model and would like to have a copy of that wiring diagram if you find one. Good luck, and let me know how that Haynes works out for you.

That's a shame. If anyone knows it would be them. Possibly you could find one from another type/brand vehicle that would match your dimensions from a junkyard.

I use Marietta Radiator for all my Radiator and A/C needs. I see you are in Newnan, Georgia, I am in Acworth. Marietta Radiator, 487 Glover Street, Marietta, GA 30060, 770-428-7120. I have never had any issues with them, they are the best at what they do, and have been around for a very long time. https://www.facebook.com/Marietta-Radiator-326650385071/