That’s different. I got the Corvette off of the rack. My 2017 GS shows the gears selected, whether in D or M. My DIC shows gear selection ay lower right corner of the tach. It’s a round feature with a smaller one imbedded at ~10:00 position. When in drive mode, “D” is in the big part, and the gear selected by the A8 is in the small part. When in manual mode, the gear selected by the driver is in the big part, and “M” is in the small part. HUD is similar. Page 171 of the Owner’s Manual seems to indicate that the HUD should show gear selected, even while in D, like the C7. Dealership says that either the manual or the RST needs revision... I’m going there next week.
I was thinking of lifting the Suburban tires off of the ground, just high enough to remove them. Using the frame lift point, you need to go up further to get the wheel just off of the ground... A bottle jack under the LCA, starting with the wheel on the ground, would need to rise only a couple of inches to unload the tire. I’d use a jack stand or 4x4 blocking as a backup for the event of jack seal failure or something.
The 2011 Avalanche I traded in had bad rust on the frame, starting to show rust on the bottom of all 4 doors and the tailgate, as well as at the corners of the cab. The first stop after leaving the dealer with the RST was the nearby Corrosion Free vendor for complete undercoat!
I’d like to jack up my 2019 RST Suburban to paint the brake calipers. My garages are too small to use my hydraulic floor jack. Using it of the ~flat StaMat (crushed slate) garage apron is a bit tedious as I need to ensure that the jack pad stays on the frame jacking point, even though the jack doesn’t roll very well. The OEM jack is the cheapest design built by the lowest bidder. The forward jacking point doesn’t even have a pocket or recess to keep the OEM jack from moving. Anyone see see a problem with jacking the front end by the lower control arm / shock mount, and using the owners manual forward jacking point as the location of a jack stand? First one side and then the other? Any other suggestions? Couple of bottle jacks or something? While on the topic, why is it unsafe to use proper jack stands to support both ends?
Page 171 of the 2019 Tahoe/Suburban Owner’s Manual shows Performance View. It states that the HUD will show speed, rpm, transmission positions and gear shift indicator. If appears to show the gear selected by the transmission while in D mode. Mine does not. Anyone else have this condition?
My 2002 Avalanche suffered from terminal body rust, mostly from the edges of the painted metal wheel wells being damaged by road debris. My 2011 Avalanche has plastic OEM fender flares that protect the bottom metal edge of the metal fender from stones and debris thrown by the tire. Plastic takes the abuse, rather than painted sheet metal. It is starting to rust in other places, but not the wheel wells. I’m thinking of a 2019 Suburban RST, but they seem to have no protection for the wheel wells - just paint over the steel of the wheel well. Has anyone done a mod to add the plastic late model Avalanche style fender flares to a Suburban? I don’t want radical wheel flares that appear to be attached with stove bolts... Just something to protect the edge of the fender well from stones thrown by the tires. Any suggestions or experience with this?
Started with 7/8 tank of gas. Last Thursday we drove ~42 miles to the Tunbridge Worlds Fair. Parked for 3 or 4 hours. Started for home and stopped at a bicycle shop in Rochester VT. This was just after a long decent over the Bethel Gap. Stayed ~45 minutes. Got back in the truck and it would barely run! Running at idle very rough ~600 rpm, engine wouldn't accelerate even in Park. Popping and banging, backfiring through the throttle body. 2 restarts showed no improvement. Got engine up to ~3000 rpm in Park and tried to drive north on VT100. Got ~100 ft, popping and banging, backfiring. Not going to make it ~20 miles to home. Returned 100 ft and parked, rather than breaking totally down in the hilly Granville Gulf where there is no cell phone service. Called AAA and had the Avalanche towed to a dealership. Got a ride home. Dealer looked at it on Friday, and it was fine... Started right up and idled normally. Drove normally. No codes. Whassup with that? No repeat of failure. Misfire / cross fire should have thrown a code - but didn’t. They will warm it up on Monday and see if it repeats. I don’t care for transient catastrophic failures. Any suggestions?
Has anyone bought the $2795 brake upgrade? Looks like an expensive way to get red calipers! One dealership said he did not recommend them because, unless you are tracking the truck, you can’t really load them up and they will end up “glazed over” in need of more costly maintenance. For normal street use, just buying more costly brake jobs. Anyone have experience with this brake option?
Noobie here. I’ve had 2002 Avalanche, and now have a 2011 Avalanche. I’m thinking of replacing it with a 2019 High Country, but want it in Silver Ice Metallic. That is a standard Silverado color, available on trucks through LTZ, but not on the HC. Does anyone know of such a “color override” that would allow me to order a HC in Silver Ice Metallic?
Can I get a “color override” to order Silver Ice Metallic, an existing Silverado color, on a High Country?
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