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Stronger800

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Everything posted by Stronger800

  1. It's not about the threads, it's about the bolt itself. Although I know lots of shops/dealers that reuse those bolts too.
  2. Mine are on with 120, as of tonight. 120 was two turns tighter than 100. Stock ones were not very tight. I removed them with my 1/4" impact driver. Given, it also removed the wheels, and I know I had those at 140ft/lbs. little Milwaukee fuel impact is handy.
  3. I actually just found instruction for the kit I purchased, listed through another vendor, and it says 120. With the thick washers and deep nuts, and lubricated threads. So that's what I'll do. I know I use to take similar sized U -bolts to 200ft/lbs, 20-25 years ago, when I as younger and didn't know much. I remember borrowing my uncles wrench, because it went to 250,and mine only to 150. I also had the rear axle/springs etc out of that truck atleast 3x, had it for four or five years, and never replaced the U bolts. So they were way over torqued, several times. It had significantly more weight and traction than this truck too. Not as much Hp though.
  4. A guy would think that a quality (not a cheap one) lift block and leveling kit would have come with directions..... But mine didn't. Found generic directions on their websight that say to use the factory spec. Anybody know what that is in a '18 sierra 1500? I've installed over a dozn sets of u bolts but they were mostly on 3/4-1 ton (fords) and they were all in the 135ft/lb area. I think the last haf ton 1/2" bolts I did were 90 ft/lbs.. I'm seeing things online that say these may only be 65/75 lbs. Seems light? I'd rather not say the brand I purchased and have it look poorly for them. I'll post pics when it's done though. Thanks
  5. I gave $1100 (leap of faith) to have my last new truck under coated with this AutoArmor stuff that was black and dried -hard-, almost like spray in bedliner, not like rubberized soft undercoating at all. They warranted the truck against surface rust for 100k and against "perforation" for ten years. I know surface rust and perforation of the body do not apply to this thread, but, I'll say that I had that truck (in NY) for 113k for over 6 years and when I just traded it in, it had Zero rust on the frame. There were a few spots on the bottom of the box and along the seems on the bottom of the cab where it was starting to flake/peel off though. My truck sold off the front line of the dealers used truck lineup, in 6 days, for 21k. It was priced the same as two similar ones that he had, that were newer, but not as clean. Without hesitation I would give $1100 to do it again, but the local shop that use to apply that product for the dealer closed up and the new shops here Krown/Ziebart, Im hearing mixed reviews on at best. I have another truck, 4 years old, that I have been hitting with fluid film twice a year. It's taken me about $45 to do it (total) and it is rust free as well, but, only 45k on it. I just bought a case of the nox-Rust stuff and am going to try the yearly re-application of wax thing on the frame (I just put two cans on it, month old truck, washed and dried it over night in garage) and then I -carefully- applied fluid film to the inner body panels and such.
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