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About NorthEast

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  1. Like any large sampling, you might get one of the good ones out of the millions that have been sold over the last few years. My personal experience sucks with this truck and it is especially terrible in traffic. I found many examples of this issue in my searches, this link provides more examples. Of course, it is possible to milk 250,000 miles out of a transmission, but given my experience, I'll be shocked if mine passes 85k without serious work. Good luck, hopefully you'll decide on a solid truck.
  2. My 2017 4x4 4.3 double cab just hit 36k. Heres my input: The GOOD -The engine is 2 ticks better than adequate. Id give it a 7.3 out of 10. -Fuel efficiency is great. 19.5 mpg in mostly town driving in L5 (V4 and 6th gear disabled). About 22 mpg with V4 and 6th gear enabled). -Well equipped with goodies like htd mirrors, android auto, and projector headlamps are great on a work truck. -Great visibility, excellent highway cruiser, ----Forward hinged extended cab doors 8.7/10 for exterior styling -The heating system gets ridiculously hot in the winter. -Even with crap tires, it is a beast in the snow. The BAD The 6 speed consistently exhibits garbage-esque characteristics: clunking, jerking, bucking, slow reverse to drive transition. (L5 helps a little). -V4 mode shudders at 37 to 39 mph, rumble strip sensation (as a result I disable it). -2nd gear saps most acceleration due to its relatively high ratio compared to first (4.03 to 2.36 falls off a cliff) The MEDIOCRE: -The frame is coated in wax. A couple areas require annual abrasive surface rust removal and recoats (1 hr with the daubert nox rust can) -The leaf springs are noisy when reversing at low speeds. They clunk (probably due to excess play in the bushings) -The front suspension has VERY limited down travel due to a UCA bumpstop. On rough roads, it SLAMs into potholes. -On my WT trim, the factory speakers produce poor sound quality. -The rear seat headrests do not stay in their raised setting-one finger can push them back down. -low hanging front air dam My VERDICT: -Take your prospective truck on a long test drive in suburban traffic. Hustle it, get on and off the gas up and down hills -Shift from reverse to drive and check the response time, check and smell the trans fluid. -If you buy one, opt for an extended powertrain warranty -Check the frame for any bare rust and ask the dealer to strip the affected zones and spray with noxrust. I documented my truck's transmission issues with the dealer. They handed me a TSB that describes the clunkiness as normal operating behavior due to "many moving parts". I plan to regularly document the issue to build a trail of evidence. It's still under warranty and I don't beat on it. I'll probably bring it in for some deep evaluation before 60,000 miles to get it sorted or replaced. My previous truck was a 2010 Frontier that I beat the hell out of up to 130,000 miles with zero unscheduled maintenance issues. If this truck's transmission fails, I'll get a new Titan.
  3. Some good info in this thread. I cleaned my (much lighter) surface rust with a paint stripper wheel and recoated with the original daubert spray. Yours looks scaly. It'll need to be resurfaced with some aggressive abrasives, hopefully there will be some metal left over.
  4. Yeah my issue was present from the first or second month of ownership. Not from beating on the truck. I had a Nissan Frontier that I drove the shit out of, on and off road, that only started to show a slight tranamission issue at 125,000 miles. Even at that mileage, it still performed with more refinement than this GM 6 speed.
  5. After reading the manual, I found no definitive reference to a top speed when driving in 4HI. Have any of you found that page? This is a question that pertains only to manual transfer case trucks. I saw the info about the electronic t case systems. Mine is a 4.3L 4x4. Every other part time 4x4 that I've driven listed a top speed at about 60 to 65mph, so I keep it under 60. This info would help on snowy highways.
  6. Yeah 6k is exceptionally low. Was the stability control system constantly nailing the brakes as you drove lol? Or do you just do a ton of stop and go urban driving?
  7. I too despise the permanent stability control. There are situations, not just the fun ones, when drivers need all avaliable power. I wonder if pulling that steering position sensor could adversely affect the operation of the SAB system. The yaw sensor must communicate with both of them.
  8. Where? I looked everywhere and had no luck. For the OP, vinyl wrap could do the job. Removing the trim isn't that difficult if patience is employed. Reapplying with some new 3m or gorilla tape is important.
  9. SUV bodies have lowered significantly over the last two decades, so I understand your frustration. The plastic beard on my 17 Silverado's front bumper sustained damaged in deep snow drifts and was the most likely culprit in a botched driveway escape attempt in a blizzard. So I chopped off most of it. Trimming yours up to the paint line could free up a lot of clearance. Try some rear splash guards. They should eliminate most of your snow blanket. Front splash guards will keep a lot of ice and slush out of your running boards and some grease at the joints could help the cause. Otherwise, removal may be the best winter move. Good luck and get some duratracs!
  10. I experimented this week after some success with L5 driving. L5 eliminated: V4 mode 35 to 39mph shudders 80 to 90 percent of clunking Then I tried Tow Haul mode. The first few days of driving resulted in some gruff driving characteristics (holding onto gears for a few seconds more than necessary before upshifting) After the transmission "learned" my driving style, it is better but still hangs on to gears for too long L5 with Tow/Haul eliminated: Early upshifting Gear hunting Clunking The usual V4 mode demerits In summary, running L4 under 50mph and L5 for everything else solved everything. T/H was too rough. The truck is a breeze to drive now, L4 improved throttle response as well.
  11. These engines are great for fuel economy. I cut off the majority of the front air dam and it still gets 20mpg consistently.
  12. Yesterday I towed 1300lbs and the truck performed really well. It felt like it had plenty of power on tap.
  13. I've towed with it only a few times, but I'll give some feedback. I helped a friend move about 30 miles towing a full 12' uhaul and carrying his bed and some crap in the truck. With high hopes, due to the 305 lb ft that this motor has, I set out in hilly stop and go traffic. The truck has "adequate" to anemic power. The tranny got up to an unsettling 221 degrees and it was only about a 50 minute drive. It felt labored and strained. The Chev is about 5300lbs, 3.42 gears, 4x4, 4.3, 2017, stock. For the sake of comparison, my last truck was a Nissan Frontier 4.0 4x4. It had 3.13 gears, 33 inch mud terrains that were north of 70lbs at each corner, and about 800lbs of off road armor. (Unloaded at the scales it was about 5150lbs). When I moved with this truck, I traveled a greater distance, had a full, heavy load in the bed, a passenger, a much more packed 12' Uhaul trailer, drove it hard, and the Nissan didn't feel labored. The engine felt like it could've taken another 2000lbs. This comparison isn't completely fair, because the Nissan engine was tuned with a Superchips Cortex for 87 octane, but it does give perspective. Maybe when this beast is out of warranty, I'll tune it and see if improvements become apparent. Tomorrow the Chev is towing about 1300lbs, should be easy, I'll report what happens
  14. I'll bring it up again at my next service visit, it does not pass as "normal driving characteristics". Running it in L5 all the time makes it 90 percent better. It also disables V4 mode and the truck still gets over 20mpg.
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