2013 Silverado, LT, Vortec 5.3L V8, 6 speed auto (I believe that it is the 6L80), EC, 2WD, HD Cooling, 69,XXX miles, transmission and ATF have never been touched. I recently started looking at the transmission operating temperature of my truck. I have yet to see what the temperatures are in the summer times (summers where I live can get up to a 100F, last year it was mostly around 85-95F), so I've been testing between mid-winter and mid-spring of 2019. I noticed that around 20-50F, the transmission will be around 99-110F. And between 50-65F, the transmission will be around 110-120F. This is with no trailer or load in the bed, and is highway driving with light city driving. These temperatures always seemed low to me. According to the original window sticker, since the truck is an All-Star Edition, the truck has HD cooling. The brochure says that this package provides extra transmission cooling. And as I said before, the the transmission has never had any service done to it yet. In the owner's manual where it talks about transmission fluid checks, at some point (I don't remember what it said exactly), it made it sound like the operating temperature should be at least 160F. My question is, what has been the operating temperatures for your truck? What features does your truck have, how do you drive it, and where do you drive it that might affect the transmission temperature?
Interesting. I have heard the G80 can be weird at times. Still makes me wonder if our G80 locked this morning when the truck got stuck. I would ask my dad, but he probably wasn’t paying attention as he was in a hurry, and he doesn’t really know what a locking rear differential does.
Thanks for your input. Never thought the G80 locked through mechanics and not through a computer. But then again, I only have a very basic understanding of the system. The truck at the time of getting stuck had at least 200 ibs of sand bags over the rear axle. I’ve done a little bit of research on the TBC. It’s odd since it only happens when it is really cold outside on startup. Couldn’t really find much of issues related to cold weather (Could also be coincidental).
Our 2013 2WD Silverado recently got stuck in the snow on our driveway. My dad (who owns the truck) got it stuck on his way home from work. He ended up parking it, going into the garage, and digging out the truck. While the truck is 2WD, I do believe it has the G80 diff. I would have gone out to check to see how he was trying to get out of the snow before shoveling it, and I would have checked to see if the diff was locking, but I was sleeping at the time (He has been working overnight shifts). I do have a basic understanding how the G80 is supposed to work. I do have some questions about it. 1. What has been your experiences with this locking rear differential? Has it been beneficial in your low traction situations. 2. Does it help disabling traction control or StabilitTrak, or should those be left on? 3. Does the computers care whether the front wheels are turned or if you applied too much throttle? Granite, I know it is best to have the front wheels straight and use light throttle when trying to get unstuck. I’m just curious if the computer cares about these conditions. 4. Any other useful information? P.S. my dad told me the past two times he started the truck at work in the negative temperatures, he’s gotten a “Service Trailer Brake System” message. He doesn’t get this message when he starts the truck in the garage. Has anyone else had this issue in colder temperatures?
Sorry for the lack of replies, I wasn’t getting email notifications and forgot about this thread. Thanks for the replies by the way. My current truck is a 2013 Silverado EC 2WD 5.3 with a factory trailering package. I actually am not really in the market for anoher truck. I’m more just interested on the towing performance of the 4.3. Though, I sometimes like to look around at what’s on the lots. If I were to actually find something, I would likely get a 5.3, but I would like to look at 4.3s for the fuel economy and the 4.3 trucks appear to have more towing capacity than I’ll ever need so I shouldn’t be towing near or at the capacity. I would still want the 3.42 axle ratio regardless the engine. The only thing I tow is a 21’ travel trailer (3430 Ibs dry weight and 3950 GVWR) a few times a year. My current truck has the factory hitch that was installed with the trailering package and I use a weight carrying Curt ball mount and ball combination that has a 2” ball (I’m still kinda new to trailering so I don’t know if I am using the right terminology).
Out of curiousity, I started wondering how the 4.3 in the 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra reacts to towing. When I did a quick online search, I couldn’t really find too much. I was wondering if anyone reading this could share their experiences. (If so, please list cabs configuration, if the truck has 4WD, axle ratios of your truck, trailer specs, steepness, and temperatures)
According to the owner's manual in my 2013 Silverado 1500, they recommend a transmission fluid change at 97,500 miles for normal use (The truck is mostly daily driven with light towing a few times a year and heavier loads in the bed more than a few times a year) The truck has the 5.3 with the 6 speed auto and is also 2WD only. It has 66K miles and the transmission fluid has never been touched since the truck was manufactured in 2012. I've heard some people say it is best to change transmission fluid between 40-60K miles regardless of brand, model, or type of vehicle. I was wondering if anyone who has followed GM's recommended transmission fluid change intervals has had issues with their transmissions afterward. To be clear, I am talking about a transmission fluid and filter change, and not a transmission flush.
Ever since we bought our 2013 Silverado, it never had any aftermarket rustproofing products. At the time, I never thought about it. But, as I learned more about trucks, I started to thing about rust proofing. Now, I live in a place that does use a lot of salt in the winter. Being that this truck is 6 years old, it does have some surface rust on the frame. Could I still use rust proofing products in my case? What would you recommend? Is it possible to remove this rust, and then apply it, or could I just put it over the rust?
I’ve been browsing around looking for a car of my own. One of the vehicles I’ve been considering is a first gen 90’s Tahoe or Yukon. I’ve always liked the styling and I hear they are pretty reliable. Especially the 350 used on these and the pickups (Were there any other engines available for these aside from the 350 and the turbo diesel? I’m no expert by any means when it comes to trucks). The only thing about it is fuel economy. Other than that, would you recommend it as a first?
2013 Chevy Silverado LT, All Star Edition (Has Trailering Package), 5.3L, completely stock. I recently bought a new camper. This camper has a battery unlike my last one. It seems in the owners manual, as well as other places online, I read that the auxiliary battery wiring is not hooked up to charge the battery on my camper. Am I understanding this correctly? If so, what is the process of wiring up the truck so I can charge the battery on my camper while towing?
So since the receiver can go up to 5000 pounds (What is says on the reciever’s sticker) without a weight distributing hitch, so 5000 would be my max for a weight carrying hitch. Right?
I don’t tow a lot with my 2013 Silverado 1500 (Extended Cab, Standard Box, 5.3, LT), but I do tow around a pop-up camper. I am thinking of getting a bigger camper. I’m trying to determine whether I need a weight carrying or weight distributing hitch. I noticed in the owner’s manual, I can tow up to 7000 pounds with a weight carrying hitch. However, on the trailer hitch receiver, it says 5000 pounds. I would think the number on the receiver is correct, but is it possible that the 7000 in the owner’s manual is correct? Or would that possibly be for other trucks and/or receivers?
As KARNUT said, there can be headaches. I’m not sure if there are any for these trucks, but Japanese cars for example. I’ve heard of some having idle issues and radio codes after disconnecting the battery. However, since you didn’t seem to have problems, and I haven’t really heard of problems, I think I should be good to replace the battery.
My 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT still has the same Battery from 2012. Since it turns 6 this year, I am looking into replacing it. I’ll probably be fine just using a battery saver, but I’m curious to those who own a 07-13 Silverado and similar vehicles. Have you had any issues with replacing your battery? I’m mostly concerned about performance of the vehicle, and will I have any issues with XM radio and Onstar since I use both. Will they work like they would before the battery was replaced? Or will they have issues with syncing and keeping my settings. I’m pretty sure these trucks don’t have a security code, but can someone confirm this for me? Anything else I’m not thinking of?
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 113 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,008 Guests (See full list)
- Lynn Yates
- Texas Daddy
- Terry Wilt
- Jiminy CriQet
- HP Hungry Z71
- DESERT DOG
- Chris Callanan
- TJ C
- Gb steel
- Michael Cehand
- Shawn O'Leary
- Brandon Adams
- kickass audio