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P0463 Fuel level Sensor. Its odd because sometimes it jumps up to normal level, then falls back down. Itll slowly go up over the drive then just drop. It will give me the Low Fuel level warning, then clear itself without needing me to hit the DIC. It will clear the CEL itself after driving after refilling.
That's what i am thinking. I also noticed that when its the tank is full but its showing empty. The Gas tank light will be on (showing empty) and the flick off while still showing empty. Does the float cause CEL light to engage? I read about Sensors and grounds being the main cause. Did you fix the float? Was it hard?
i have a 2011 sierra 1500 z71 ext cab. I had once noticed my fuel gauge go empty then was acting odd and ran a cleaner with next fill up and the problem went away. Now about 5-6 months later it happened again. The gauge goes from normal to empty. then will slowly come back up, or will jump back up, then can read correctly, then falls back to empty. The gauge reading empty will put CEL on. The gauge will work again while CEL is on, then it will go down, slowly come up etc... Each time i have filled up since it started recently, it was either at empty or had been going back and fourth. first fill up of 10 gallons and it seemed to be working again normally. CEL light went off, and gauge read fine. 2 days later its acting up. CEL comes back on. I fill up again, and all is normal. Now again few days later and CEL comes out. gauge works sometimes and will move extremely slow back to the correct spot. I havent gotten under to do diagnostics but i wasnt sure if anyone knew if it was a problem with a float device, or ground wire, sensor? I have researched and i would imagine ground wire but seems sensors are often bad too. Thanks for any input
I purchased 2015 sierra 1500 rims and tires, i assumed that i would be able to just relearn them using the delfation technique but that did not work. I purchased a Re-learn tool from amazon and it works on my current wheels, but will not work when i put the new tires next to truck and use it. Do i need to re-learn the TPMS to the truck with the new tires from a dealer or is there something i am missing. I read about "Waking up" the tpms in the tires but i would prefer to have them working before taking the time to install them, it not work, then have to reinstall old ones. Thank You
I just moved to the mountains and my drive to and from work is 30 minutes along a back road doing 50mph through deer covered woods and horse farmland. I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3l Z71 trailer package, with a Leveling Kit, DIabloTune, and some minor adjustments. I know that a grillguard and the bolt on grills are no good when impacting a deer and can cause more damage. But i was wondering the difference of the frame mounted heavy duty bumper and the same style bumper with the grill cover. Do the grill covers help to reduce the damage from the deer or do they generally bend in (even though the bumper is into the frame) My second thought is suspension/weight and the value of it. I drive highway a lot also and would hate to lose 2-3mpg due to the weight of the new bumper. 1000$ isnt alot when you consider the price of a new bumper, headlights, grill, etc. But i also have insurance for that. I tried doing some research but was struggling to find accurate information on the true heavy duty grill guard+bumper. I know the smaller bolt on's generally cause more damage and press into the entire front end. If this is a repeat question please direct me to the thread so i can do the research. Thank You For comparison with Grill Guard https://www.carid.com/2011-gmc-sierra-off-road-bumpers/frontier-truck-gear-front-bumper-342299949.html?parentsubmodel=SUBMODEL|1500 Without Grill Guard https://www.carid.com/2011-gmc-sierra-off-road-bumpers/iron-cross-hd-series-front-bumper-335372065.html?parentsubmodel=SUBMODEL|1500
The original plan was to do LT Headers and Full Exhaust but after watching videos on installing headers i decided my DD didnt need that type of modification haha. I enjoy doing it myself so i would want to install the exhuast but the more i read into it welding is difficult when it is still on the truck and the process to get the exhaust back in as one piece seems difficult.
I just purchased the Airraid MIT intake tube for my 2011 Sierra 5.3l and noticed sounds and power immediately after replacing the restrictive and oddly designed stock intake tube. I am looking to also maximize the exhaust and am not sure if i should just replace the muffler with a better flowing one or replace with a cat-back exhaust. I am looking to save money and with just a Intake, Muffler and Diablew Tune i do not plan on having too much HP. Will the stock Exhaust pipe size be large enough? Is there any way to easily install myself or would it require welding. Attempted to find online but people seemed to offer different piping sizes for different years and engine sizes. If the piping is 2.75" as some say, would a 3" in/out muffler fit over the exhaust tubing?
I recently purchased a 2011 sierra 1500 5.3l Z71 with Trailer Package. I noticed some wires just behind the e-brake and wasn't sure what they would be used for? i assume i have a brake-controller for trailer as i can set trailer brake gain. Any suggestions one what this might be? Everything appears to be stock within the cab.
I was looking for information on long tube headers. I have a 2011 1500 Sierra 5.3l Flex Fuel with the trailer package with increased intake. I have a tune i can use through Lew and cant decide on getting Long Tube headers or not and if it would be worth the hassle. My Truck is a daily driver and i use it on the highway a lot. I dont want to lose torque but would like to get some decent numbers and feel like the stock headers and exhaust are restrictive. Does anyone know the performance difference for just having a exhaust compared to having exhaust and headers? Also would want to keep it below 1400$ total. When removing header bolts is it common to have bolts break?
I am also interested in this, i have seen 33" tires on 3" lift (2011 Chevy) and he explained he had to cut back the front fenders to fit them (Mickey Thompson Mud Tires) I would love to put 33" on mine but cant stand rubbing. I see some people say 33" fit and some say they wont. I have a 2.5" lift and it looks as though i barely have an inch between tire and wheel well in the front. I am running 31" ATVs on 17" stock rim.
I am also interested and have a very similar set up already. Sierra 1500 2013 with 2.5" lift and 5.3l Engine. I have put the tune on and deavtivated the AFM. next year i am wanting to install new Long Tube Headers, along with a full Dual exhaust. Thinking 2" exhaust to increase flow but not eliminate the Torque. after the mods i will have it tuned for 91/93 using diablo custom tune hoping to get close to 400hp or close to 340rwhp. I know with the FlexFuel engines the injectors can handle up to 400hp. The non-FlexFuel would need new fuel line and fuel injectors i believe. If you have made any mods please lmk!
I recently purchased a 2011 1500 Sierra SLE with Trailer and Tow package. I have the 17" Rims. and tire size is 265/70/17. My truck sits higher then my 2002 ram 1500 SLT 4x4 with 33" tires and leveled. But the suspension parts do not look much newer then the rest of truck. I also believe i have rear husky wheel well liners but not sure if there is a way to tell by looking at the outside (Without trying to remove them as they are tight fit) i would like to eventually put 275/60/20 (33" tires) on truck and would imagine i have clearence. but i am just thrown off by the ride height of my truck. It has no noticeable modifications that i am aware of. Also on Ram Forums everyone loved Pacesetter long Tube Headers. Anyone have advice on LT Headers that are not more then 400-500$? I am trying to search for post related but having a hard time.
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