forest

Transmission.

Sounds like something is scratching the glass inside the door ... awful. Mine has done it from day one as well. Figured it was just another crappy design. Can't imagine GM actually doing anything about it.

How do you know it isn't the motor?

Thanks for the info. It was the front diff vent hose that was disconnected. Not sure if that was intentional or accidental. Glad I saw it. I put it back on. Is there supposed to be a hose clamp to stop it from coming off?

So I took my truck to another dealership besides the one I bought it at to have them take a look at the leaking engine oil. Took 15 minutes for them to confirm leaking engine oil cooler hoses and they replaced them. They couldn't figure out why the other dealer needed to add dye to the engine oil and make me drive it around for 300 miles to make it leak more. They said it was totally obvious. So I just spent 2 hours cleaning up the undercarriage of the truck from the oil that was all over from the leaking and the repair and I came across this random hose. It is down by the front diff and terminates up near the battery where it is electrical taped onto a wiring harness. Does anyone know what it is? I don't recall seeing it before. If it was something important I can't believe that the service technician wouldn't have hooked it back up. Maybe I should just rip it off? Took off the right front wheel well liner to keep an eye on the engine oil cooler lines to see if they start leaking ... even though they were originally leaking at the engine block adapter. They also said something about a TSB for the adapter bolts being too long to get proper torque which made connection leak at gasket. I couldnt find that TSB and they didnt mention it in the notes. Check out pics. I also created a complaint with the NHTSA on the leaking oil cooler lines just in case anyone else is experiencing them. I had less than 1000 miles on the vehicle before I noticed the leak.

Ditto the fuse block bolts ... I had all kinds of weird stuff happening on mine including it dying on me while driving down the highway just to start up again on its own 20 seconds later ... happened multiple times. I torqued down those fuse block bolts and problem went away ... worth a shot ... would do it yourself vs dealer ... .02

Ugghh ... break out the stethoscope

Yes. Mainly clips but there are screws under the passenger side end cover after you take it off. Nothing complicated. Dealer can print off parts diagram for you for reference. What are you doing? I vinyl wrapped my wood grain trim for a different look.

Thanks for that info. Makes me feel a bit better when I have to drive around with the oil cooler lines leaking that there isn't a loss of pressure.

My 2023 Silverado LT 4WD has done this from day 1 with only 7 miles on the odometer. Primarily in reverse when turning wheels but more specifically I hear it when also compressing suspension at same time like backing out of my driveway which is on a slight incline. I thought maybe it was some control arm or other suspension bushings settling but it hasn't stopped. It's not as bad as a sway bar link noise or bad control arms but it is definitely there. Checked toque on everything suspension related (control arms, struts, sway bar) and they seemed fine. Maybe it is something with a CV axle ... seems early on for that to be an issue but hey, my new truck as been leaking engine oil since day 1 so a bad CV axle wouldn't surprise me.

Believe it or not the USB cable you use can impact this. I see you have changed USB cables already but have you used a high quality USB cable? There is a difference. I had to find the right cable before mine started behaving correctly and then over time due to flex of cable I believe pin wiring broke and it started to act up. Replaced cable and it was fine again. Here's and interesting article on USB cable construction comparison. https://www.lumafield.com/article/usb-c-cable-charger-head-to-head-comparison-apple-thunderbolt-amazon-basics

Sneaky Pete is correct. Oil leak is not repaired. Dealer where I bought truck hasn't called me back to schedule. I left them voicemail over 10 days ago letting them know it's still leaking after they put dye in it. I am hesitant to call them multiple times now since they told me I was making a big deal out of it. I am paying for a rental car out of pocket to minimize the amount I have to drive it but unfortunately I have to tow the landscaping equipment. Hopefully the dealership will call back soon. Oil level is fine on dipstick though so I thought maybe this oil pressure reading is normal. Never had digital gauge before. Pressure does increase at higher rpm.

What do normal oil pressure gauge readings look like for everyone? I have a 5.3. Is this low at idle? Thanks.

This happens to me frequently on 23 Silverado. I find that changing to Sirius XM and changing to a different preset cause infotainment to "unmute" ... definitely buggy.

On my steering wheels this has been the actual leather breaking down from use. I have bought leather steering wheel covers and hand stitched them on. They are a pain in the butt ... but look nice. I didn't use the same stitch pattern that they used from the factory but sewing this on by hand gave me a new appreciation for an OEM leather wrapped steering wheel.

Happy Halloween ! This is what I feel like when I look at the oil puddle in my driveway.

I am clearly in the wrong here. As I stated I am not going to pursue it further. I appreciate the tips on the leaks and feedback on my behavior and expectations from warranty service.

Agreed. I am gonna let the issue drop and not pursue it.

I'm not taking it out on anyone ... there is no "one" to take it out on. I learned this after 20 years in corporate America. The poster just said they didn't see the issue. I was telling them what the issue is for me ... my wasted time ... lots of it. A poor new car buying experience. I personally don't even blame the dealer. They are only incentivized to sell new cars for GM. They are not financially incentivized to provide a positive customer service. It is probably GM policy to do as little as possible. They are probably told to wipe down obvious oil leaks and put "dye" in the oil and send the customer on their way. 20 years of corporate America would lead me to believe that is the case.

So if you paid 60k for a new vehicle and it has a rear main seal leak and an obvious oil cooler line leak you would be ok with them not fixing it? This just makes me waste more of my time. And even if they do "fix" it ... I can tell you there is no way in hell that truck is going to be put back together the same after a trans drop. Been there done that. But what really bothers me is my lost time. The wasted day yesterday with the dealership. 8 hours of my time to have them wipe down oils spills and send me on my way with no resolution. Wiping mechanic grease and oil off my truck door handle, steering wheel, shifter, start button and seat covers. And you think I am gonna waste less time and have a better outcome with a rear main seal replacement? The issue is I have a defective vehicle and I will spend dozens of hours trying to get it fixed and there is no monetary compensation that can get my time back. Is that GMs idea of a positive new car buying experience?

Guessing you removed sway bar link at bottom? Did you reconnect and torque it with suspension fully weighted? Links don't seat and torque properly without load. Easiest for me to put wheel on and lower vehicle to ground. I had no way to test torque properly because the link would turn without me holding the 9mm spindle via a pass through socket so I cranked them down enough that when I put torque wrench on it clicked before they spun. If you are 100 pct sure everything else is torqued down and 100 pct sure that preassembled strut is good then it could be something unrelated to your work. May have to give it time to settle in where it is more identifiable. Let us know if you find out anything.

Did it make this noise before the Bilsteins? Did you install the Bilsteins yourself? Did the strut assembly come preassembled? Quite a few variables here. My 23 is making a creaking noise up front but it did it before my Bilstein install which I did myself including the coil, top hat, height ring, etc. It is still making the noise after. I thought maybe control arm bushings settling or sway bar bushings but honestly it seems effected by steering wheel so maybe something with the rack. My truck is trash though and this creak is minor compared to the other things.

Update: Went to dealer today and it was a sh*tty experience. They acknowledged the engine oil leaks at both locations but did nothing to address them. They wiped everything down and put dye in my engine oil WITHOUT my permission. I guess when you drop off a vehicle for warranty examination they can do whatever they want without your permission. I had already wiped the oil drips down twice and they reappeared. If they don't reappear now I have a feeling they put more than dye in my engine oil. When I asked if they put anything else in there the service rep got offended and said I was making a big deal out of nothing. I guess it's not his $60k or 5 hours of wasted time that he didn't get paid for. The icing on the cake was when they called a Lyft ride for me. The Lyft ride rolls up in the "gold" Ford Explorer that had been sideswiped so bad I wasn't getting the rear passenger door open. The window rolls down (maybe to tell me to pull extra hard on the door or go to the other side) and the cigar/cigarette/whatever smoke rolls out. I just walked away and had a nice 7.4 mile walk home down a 6 lane highway with no sidewalk. This is why I should never go to a dealer. GM doesn't care about customers post sale. The service department is making no money off warranty work. So they wipe your brand new vehicle engine oil leaks down with a rag and tell you "don't make a big deal about it". Here's some updated pictures of their "fixes"

Traced lines above oil filter back to transmission cooler. Looks like dealer was right about both leaks. For the lines from the oil cooler I am guessing an o-ring or o-ring type of gasket is behind there and improperly positioned. Will get parts diagram while I am at dealer tomorrow. Still thinking front input shaft seal or torque converter seal on the internal leak. Requires trans drop to fix. Not a great way to start off a brand new vehicle. Transmission whines when slowing due to around 20 mph like it is engine breaking. Will ask them to look at that as well.

Dealer had to reset it.