what differentials are you all running?
just tightened my bolts after having electrical issues ... they were all 1/2 turn shy of TSB recommended torque and green indicators were popped ... guessing this was engineering torque miscalculation ... wonder what manufacturer torque specs were ... will see if this addresses issue
Check the torque on the fuse box bolts in the engine compartment ... there is a TSB for this and also discussion about your issue on this forum
Realized today that what had hapoened was that the truck lost electrical power causing the instrument cluster to reset as though I was starting it up ... except I was driving down the road at 55 mph ... I am not sure if this has happened before ... I just happened to be looking at instrument cluster ... anyone have any thoughts on this loss of power ... could this be the b+ battery cable to alternator issue or a loose ground screw or a short ... concerns me ... thanks all
Driving down the road today in 1 week old 2020 Silverado LT 5.3 and the whole instrument cluster flashes like I am starting it up ... ALL the warning lights come on, all needles peg, stays like that for a cpl seconds and then goes away. Anyone seen anything like this? Thanks.
ISSUE SOLVED! I replaced the EBCM with a new one from GM Parts Direct - $130 part # 23380704. Fuse is no longer blowing and power steering has been re-enabled. Error light on dash says Stabilitrak Initializing ... maybe Stabilitrak needs reset/reprogrammed? Can't believe this electronic piece failed after only 24k miles and very gentle use. I will open it up and see if I notice anything. Have seen some posts about bad solder spots ... wave soldered maybe poor solder quality, poor conditions led to solder breakdown from vibrations. The version I received was Revision D ... versus the one I removed which was Revision C ... both made in Mexico. Hope this helps someone. Forest
thanks for the suggestion ... I couldn't tell from the 2014 docs you sent if the location on the side rail was 121 or 400. I could only find one ground out of the harness towards the front then followed harness back to rear bumper where another ground came out near connectors for trailers. Removed both grounds cleaned screws and body torqued down good ... still blowing ABS fuse. I have been towing small trailer using 4 pin wiring harness ... I didn't see anything that connected to the ABS circuit related to it in schematics ... maybe I will try to pull it some way so it is out of the equation.
Need sanity check here ... Park truck in driveway get up next morning on startup ABS, brake, and stabilitrak lights lit, DIC says EPS assist disable drive with caution. Still running and driving good (minus EPS assist). Start looking around find ABS 25 amp micro fuse blown, go to replace it and it immediately sparks and blows again. Disconnect negative term from battery, pull all 4 wheel speed sensors, insert 25 AMP fuse in ABS slot, reconnect neg batt cable and it blows. Disconnect negative term from battery, disconnect harness from EBCM, insert new 25 AMP fuse, reconnect neg batt cable and fuse it good. Something is pulling too much current ... I dont see anything of significance besides 4 wheel speed sensors coming into wiring harness for EBCM. Is some cable worn through and contacting chassis (I didnt see any evidence, almost all cable is in plastic protective sleeve except for last 12 inches to wheel speed sensors and connector)? Is the EBCM bad? No ODB codes set, stopped by a Midas and they were kind enough to try and pull ABS DTC codes but their scanner show communication error (maybe because ABS fuse is blown?) Stumped! Thanks for feedback.
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