23RST

everything from every manufacturer sucks - buy a pre-covid Lexus lol

sold my '23 1500 RST because of the seats. That & the Bose $800 stereo sucks, even tried aftermarket speakers. The cabin is 2-3x louder than the Ram Big Horn 1500 w/Level 2 pkg. Now going thru Lemon case for that Ram lol. Time to try an F150 since the Tundra engines are exploding.

you're the man! thank you

Got it, thanks! So, 4x 11603207 u-bolts 2x 84379975 spring spacers 2x 84625975 jounce stop plate ???

All I want is the ZR-2 leafs, corresponding rear ride height & whatever secondary parts required to do so. Sounds like that's.... nothing? I just re-use everything currently on my RST? No different brackets, bolts, lift blocks, etc?

Just U-bolts?! perfect any idea what I should search for? OEM? aftermarket?

I already have the front coilovers & rear shocks. I can get the springs cheap locally. Question for the real pros out there... are all of the parts in red carryover? Or do I need to also hunt down these ZR2-specific assembly bits?

Great info both of you, thanks! Figuring out your payload first & then working backwards to the tongue makes a lot of sense. I'll have to figure out my exact equipment. I have the LZ0 crew cab with the smaller gear ratio.

Can anyone comment on whether running a larger transmission cooler or bypass valve is worth doing for the longevity of the seals & general life of 10spd the trans? (I have the 3.0 LZ0) I know there's some PPE products available & I'm not sure there's any harm running around 160F vs. the ~198F that it typically runs when not towing. For example, if the transmission solenoids are designed to operate with a certain viscosity, then changing the temperature so drastically make actually cause other issues. In which case, you're better off leaving the transmission temps where they are from the factory. From past experience, BMW motors like to eat seals & gaskets because they run so hot for efficiency ratings. You'll often see folks in that community run thermostats that open at lower temps to extend the longevity.

Just curious, can someone explain how to balance the tongue/payload/GVWR vs the "rated" 13,300lbs? From what I understand some payload in the truck + weight on the tongue will very quickly eat up your GVWR maximum before you ever even get close to the 13,3000 "rated" amount (which sounds like BS now that I understand a little more). May have some towing needed in the next 2 months. Thanks

check DM I sent you

$900 shipped

Thank you! I noticed this... front dash tweeters doing the heavy lifting I also just realized I put 4ohm speakers in the front door but the factory ones are 1.7ohm. Rears went from 3.4ohm to 4ohm - I did notice a small difference hot swapping them just now with radio on. I am switching the fronts to Powerbass OE-652.

Question if anyone has noticed: My audio cannot be hear until the yellow bar is >25% or so. I usually listen to stuff about 50-60%. I thought this was kind of strange so I played with the fade/balancer and I moved all the audio to the rear and it seems like the door speakers aren't doing much. If any of y'all are having a different experience, it may be time for me to visit the dealer.