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About kmaroman

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  1. Yeah we tried a multitude of different things, it seemed like we could it to spread far enough apart just didn’t want to drop down for me. I’ll mess with it some more tomorrow, another friend who messes with this stuff more often is swinging by with some of his tools
  2. I don’t understand I did exactly like there video, but when I try opening up the snap ring I can’t get anything to drop free. Should I be using some kind of special snap ring pliers or something?
  3. I found a used np261 for $160 and went that route, it came out of a running truck with 190k and the guy said it worked. I bought the pump rub kit so this doesn’t happen again, but for the life of me I can’t get the main shaft to drop after using snap rings plier on it. Me and a friend tried for hours to no avail
  4. Well I finally figured out the noise on my truck, climbed under it today to check the transfer case fluid level and it was bone dry. Looked on the side and I have two pin holes worn through. So I’m planning to drop the t case myself in the next couples weeks and then probably get a reman since new ones are $2000+. what’s my best option for remans? I’d like to get one with the pump rub saver already installed and not break the bank. Is there a certain brand or company I should be looking for? thanks for any input
  5. having a hard time tracking down the noise that’s recently started in my truck. When your cruising 30 or below all is good but once you starting getting faster it feels like the steering wheel stiffens up(maybe this is just me), as well as very very slight vibration. Once you get in the 40s I start to hear this vibration the originated from somewhere under the truck it’s hard to place. Sometimes it sounds like it’s in the center other times maybe on the passenger side around the seats. Seems to only do this while I’m applying gas. To compliment it there is a random popping noise from 40+ as well. It doesn’t sound bad it just makes a pop or slight rattle. I thought it was a u joint but after replacing one of the rear ones(which was bad) it didn’t seem to change anything. I’m going to take a look at the front u joints after that I’m thinking maybe wheel hubs or cv axles. Although I’m not sure because it doesn’t matter if I’m turning or stopping it doesn’t seem to affect the noise or vibrations in anyway. really lost here and hate to spend the money for all the aforementioned parts of it doesn’t need them. Any ideas or thoughts to run down are appreciated
  6. The truck in question is my 2005 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 4x4. For years I’ve had the slight clanking when changing directions and taking off but here recently it’s gotten quite noisy. At first I thought it was just the rear parking brake, because after using it one day it seemed to stick enough to cause some squealing noises. Had a similar issue with a 1500 years ago. well I kept pulling up on the lever and I think it loosened because it hasn’t been squealing any lately but it’s started clunking. I had my truck up on stands today and decided to check parking brake but the noise wasn’t coming from it. The noise was coming from the drive line, so I started looking at the u joints. well they looked like garbage(260,000miles and there probably the originals) but I didn’t see any slop in them. The noise seemed to be coming from the transfer case tail shaft but it also seem to travel down to the rear end as well. I had heard some weird noises I couldnt isolate up front recently and it got me thinking that’s probably what it was and the sound was also traveling down the driveshaft making me think it was the parking brake. I’m going to go ahead and replace the u joints see if it helps and I guess putting grease inside the driveshaft is suppose to help quiet it all down. does this sound like typical gm clunk or is my transfer case going bad ?
  7. Wound up tilting the bed up, which was super easy there’s several videos showing how it’s done. I didn’t know about it and my buddy showed me there’s this new nickel/copper tube that’s easy to work with and that’s what we used to replace the old line. Had to replace the caliper because the bleeder broke but everything seems good. Appreciate the help guys.
  8. Well put it back in the garage today and turns out the line around the fuel take busted. What’s the best way to get to it? Is it easier to take the bed off or drop the tank ?
  9. Welp here’s my first post so have mercy on me I own and from time to time drive a 2005 Silverado 2500hd 4wd with 6.0/lq4 Now that is out of the way I’ll discuss the problem, recently I noticed a slight winding noise and didn’t pay it to much attention till last nite it was really noticeable. After some quick deducing and judging by how the brakes felt I figured the brakes/power steering fluid was low. Sure enough when I pulled into the Wally World parking lot my power steering reservoir was almost empty but brake fluid was good. The only fluid they had was the Supertech with stop leak which I’m a little Leary about. Anywho I poured in the fluid and turned the wheels to try to get it back in the system. It only wound up using half a quart and the system quieted right down to normal again, but the brakes still felt off. Today I decided to pull my truck into the garage and find the leak, which from what I could make of it was a very minor leak on the pitman arm shaft. Which I guess is good news since the seal kit is only $20 but as I was pulling my truck out of the garage I pushed on the brakes firmly to see how it would react since they didn’t feel right and low and behold the pedal went to the floor. So I got out to check and the power steering fluid is still topped off from last nite and the brake fluid is still in check. Did my power steering being low mess up my hydro boost unit or something? Does my hydro boost need bled ? Just scratching my head as to what I need to do now ? Any help appreciated
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