TSchevy

Below is the model number from Kicker for the amp with switches and port for control knob. I had to have mine replaced under warranty. I was trying to buy a replacement, luckily it ended up not costing me. Maybe Kicker will sell it separately for those interested. KHBTL003AB

Kit came with T-Taps. They worked great for me.

It lines up pretty good to me. There is a slight height difference do to the curvature of the cab. Paint color came out great. I was worried with my truck being 3 years old, but it matches up nicely. But I have babied this thing since it left the dealer. These things are expensive! You used to be able to go look before you buy, but those days are long past. It took 16 weeks to get this one in…. Pictures sometimes do it justice, but other times not. I rolled the dice, trusted my gut, very happy with it.

Planning to remove ARE badging and stickers this weekend.

Finally got my bed capped. Took me a long time to decide it’s what I wanted…then took a while to get it in from ARE. I went with the Z2, as it seemed to be their most reliable, well liked cap, and it had all the features I wanted. Roof rails, dual interior LED strip lights, a smaller dome light, fold down interior window, integrated keyless entry. I opted to skip the side vented windows, figuring I would forget them more than I’d use them.

I wasn’t sure, but that’s where I left it while experimenting. What do the switches need to be set to for the control knob to function?

Something doesn’t seem right. I have 1st 2 dips down with #3 up, no gain knob, and my bass EQ is set to 5 and it hits pretty good. With all three up the bass was massively too much for my liking. Wasn’t clean at all.

I t-tapped the factory sub and followed the connection suggested in the original post. I was wondering the same about the 1st 3 switches, but I have not played with them myself. Right now I have all 3 down, which is minimal…. Leaving the one up still seemed too high.

I’ve had no issues with mine. The one time they did hyperflash, I was sitting at a train with my signal on for a while. Turned off the blinker, went back to normal.

First impressions are good. Super punchy. Seems much more consistent across various genres. I’m really trying to figure out why it’s not wired this way from the start… I set the dip switches back to original for the trial run. I previously had it hooked up with the gain control knob, which I really liked. I’m going to experiment with it through the weekend. Right now I have the bass EQ to -6, otherwise I can hear the glass rattle.

I got it all taken apart…realized I have no spare wire. Will complete the job tomorrow. Wires were easy to find behind the passenger side console plate as TJ mentioned. I used 14-16 T-taps. I’ll follow up upon completion…

Great information. I’ll attempt this over the weekend. I have been largely underwhelmed by the Kicker system. It’s a nice system, but I have the same complaints raised above.

Would greatly appreciate the photos.