Well, looks like we were all wrong. Gave up and took it to a mechanic for diagnosis... just heard back, engine is bad. Will have more details once I pick it up. Not happy. Buying this truck was charity for a family member down on their luck and my reward is thousands out the window and nothing to show for it.
Wasn't the intake manifold gaskets (or the knock sensors) either. After doing those, it now idles better, but the second you put it under a load (as in the second you put it in gear), it's just as bad as ever. Pretty discouraged here, and out of ideas.
Yes, you can tell. Whether the light is flashing or not doesn't seem to make any difference, it always feels like it's misfiring (shuddering, low on power, slow to accelerate, stumbles and almost dies when you come to a stop, etc). I assume there are instructions around here somewhere on how to do this relearn? Or is it a dealer only procedure? At this point I'm willing to try just about anything as I'm running short on patience and thinking about fire-bombing the thing.
Ok, before I order any more parts for my parts cannon, including intake manifold gaskets, I checked the fuel pressure, which I'm told can also be the issue behind a P0300 code. Here is what I found, at the schrader valve on the fuel rail: Key on, not started: pressure went to 50, then slowly dropped back to zero. Not sure if it was supposed to, but it did not hold pressure with the key in the on position Starting and idling: pressure was consistent at 50 Running, feathering the throttle: pressure bounced between 48-52 Those numbers seem a bit low, but I don't know if they're low enough to indicate the issue is there. Hoping someone can tell me if my test results indicate anything, if not I'll probably just move forward with the intake manifold gaskets and a bit of prayer.
I am currently fighting this exact same issue, which seems very common based on all the posts about it all over the internet. Check engine light blinks, mostly but not exclusively, at idle. It also idles around 500 RPM, which I believe is a bit low and at times seems like it's going to stall but never quite does. Computer shows a code P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected). So far I have done the following, which has changed nothing: New spark plugs New spark plug wires Cleaned throttle body New idle air control valve New PCV valve New fuel filter Added a can of Sea Foam to fuel tank (unknown quantity of old gas in tank) Next up, I'm going to borrow a fuel pressure gauge and check that. If the numbers don't look right, then I'll probably try a new fuel injection pressure regulator and/or new fuel pump. If the numbers do look right, then... I dunno, maybe an EGR valve or MAF sensor or new coil packs or...?
Ok, I'm certain this is a dumb question, but what is this?? It's right in middle of the bed on this 01' 2500HD that recently became mine. I assume something connects here, maybe some kind of hitch, but it doesn't look like any 5th wheel attachment I've seen before. It also doesn't look like anything I'm likely to ever use, but it would still be nice to know what it is. Thanks in advance!
Tried that, but it doesn't give me just the u-joints for my specific configuration, it gives me every possible u-joint for every possible configuration and you have to wade through it all. I have found there on the AC Delco site at least 4-6 different part numbers for each of the 5 locations, but nothing that indicates if those are all comparable or if there is some variable that has to be considered to pick the right one. The only glaring difference I see, on a couple of the options, is "Spicer 1410 series". Maybe this is a dumb question, but how do I know if I need a "Spicer 1410 Series"?
First off, I searched, couldn't find this answer, sorry if I missed it. I have just come into possession of a 2001 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4x4 Crew Cab (6.0L, automatic) that has seen much better days. The truck is beat, has over 213,000 miles on it, and needs a new transfer case. Lots more needs to be done, but a new transfer case should get it back to drivable condition (fingers crossed). I want to go ahead and do the u-joints while I'm replacing the t-case, but I'm having a tough time finding what I need online. Everywhere I look seems to think I should only need 4 u-joints, but I count 5 when I lay under the truck. It has a two piece rear driveshaft with one at the rear axle, one at the t-case, and one at the center support bearing... and one at each end of the front driveshaft, so 5 total. Do I have something weird here? Is there a reason why everywhere I look seems to think I should only need 4? Anyone here happen to know which joints I need for each location? Thanks in advance.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Doug in AB
Who's Online 120 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,674 Guests (See full list)
- CT Chevy Connoisseur
- Miami Son
- Mike Borowski
- Kyle's AT4
- Ken Clifton
- Larry Cooke
- James Dink
- Blair W