DenaliKing

Spot On, I had my mounts replaced at 53k, same issue... and went through all fuel injection cleaning... check this... check that... my main issue is with the dealerships... they know the issue yet 90% suck because they don't tell you... I'll leave it at that...SMH

I went out to get in my truck Saturday, to fire it up so we could take the kids to a family friend's birthday party. I hopped in, put the key in the ignition, and the infamous click click click... So I just got a battery about a year ago for a somewhat similar situation with a bad battery, so naturally I was like WTF... got my volt meter out, and sure enough battery was sitting at 11.9 volts, now here's where it get's strange, I pull the battery to take it in, and I decided to check it just to see, and it was now at 12.6??? Still technically low enough to be a bad battery (91%), but not nothing like you'd typically see. So I took it in anyway and they graciously swapped it under warranty. So I'm done right? Wrong!!! I get home and put it in, walk around to start her up, now when I put the key in it'll only ding, nothing else.... no radio, no display, not even the click I was getting earlier.... so now I send the family without me, and I'm about to investigate. Computer wouldn't allow me into the pcm, but it would allow me to check for open circuits, which I had an ignition open circuit, I check all available fuses, and there's alot of em, 3 banks worth, they were all fine..... what the hell.... so then I looked at the battery terminal (buss bar), checked all circuits, I had a dead 175A terminal, bingo!!!! Went to the dealer, it's a 92 dollar part, and all is now well... it took me the better part of the day to figure this out, so I'm hoping this may help short cut some of you with the same type problem... dealer said this item goes out often, and for no apparent reason.. links to pictures, and part numbers attached. Happy mechanicing

Service bulletin number PIP5211E June2016 Rough idle in park and drive This solved my problem, but get both new engine mounts replaced and make sure they put the washers in, the mounts were defective from manufacturer (internally broke), and they are grounded out on the frame by crappy design from GM. The mounts sit directly in the frame. Hope this helps! E SB-10080684-2280.pdf

I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali that was experiencing the same issues as you describe above, I have since had the fuel injection cleaned, I've had to transmation looked at and still the problem persisted. I recently took it back in and had them check the engine mounts specifically, and discovered this is the problem and is also covered under warranty up to 60000 miles, however if you are passed 60000 miles you have to pay for that repair yourself. Which is not super expensive. The engine mount internal part breaks because of a defective engine mount which allows the engine to sit on the frame and you're feeling the engine run as it sits on the frame that's where the shaking comes from. Don't let anybody tell you any different at any other GMC dealership i have gotten the run around also, but what it comes down to is it is the engine mount and it is a defective part and GMC is well aware of it. Change your mount(s) and you should be good to go.