garrett0151

I warmed the transmission up to operating temp and waited 20min before I started the flush.

Hey John, Good thing you were able to get it to the dealership before your warranty was up. I had a hard time getting them to do anything. Luckily, I bugged them enough to get some information out of them. For my situation, GM extended drivetrain warranties for only a select number of 2016 Silverados. My VIN was not one of them. Same situation for a bad a bad condenser. They wanted $1,800 and I fixed myself for $150. I can't believe GM would allow an engineer to design a transmission with no dip stick on it. Blows my mind! Follow up in the future and let us know how it's working out for you. Garrett

In this forum Im going to list the speakers and items I purchased to upgrade the speakers in my 2016 Silverado. The factory speakers are terrible and they now sound better than the Bose system that I had on my last vehicle. Parts List (Essentials): SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness *2 $25.96 Metra 82-3005 Speaker Bracket $19.99 Scoche SAGMHR-634 $11.99 Kicker 46CSS674 $127.96 Kicker 47KSC6704 $119.95 Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack $189.95 Tax $40.90 Total $536.71 Parts List (Extra): Nico Sound Deadening Mat $49.99 Auto Trim Removal $6.99 Heat Shrink Butt Connectors $19.99 Heat Gun $24.98 Speaker Wire $13.49 Micro2 Fuse Tap $10.79 Wire Crimps $31.30 Tax (8.25%) $12.99 Total $170.52 Noico Sound Deadening Here's the sound damping material on the passenger side door. One box of Noico Sound Deadening covered all four doors. This made a HUGE difference in sound (Bass) quality. In this picture you'll notice that there are two pairs of speaker cable run through the door. That way i could put the crossover filter inside the cab and not in or on the door. If I could do this over again i would cut out this clear plastic https://www.homedepot.com/p/HUSKY-10-ft-x-50-ft-Clear-6-mil-Plastic-Sheeting-CF0610-50C/202184196 the size of the door. That way i could tape it to the door and draw where all the holes and cables are and make it where I could get maximum coverage. This stuff is difficult to cut and measure while putting it on the door. Once its stuck to the door, there is no getting it off in one piece. Tweeter Cut Out I made a template from the old tweeters on card stock and used that to draw a cut out on some wood i purchased from Lowes. Crossover Placement The crossover filters fit perfect where the fuse box is. Hooking up the Front Door Speaker Here is where I ran the two pairs of speaker wire through the door. I had to use fish tape to pull the wire through that rubber boot. It wasn't difficult as others made it out to be. ***I went from the door side up through the boot*** Easiest possible way. In the photo you see a clip there on the top side of the plastic, that is how you pop it off the trucks cab. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56005-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=fish+tape&qid=1592440686&sr=8-2 $13.00 Heres a link to the fish tape. Harness Side (Green Plug) hooked to Head Unit Here is how I tied in the wires behind the unit (Green) harness. ***Side Note. I initially spliced in to the Yellow wire from the amp (Power Wire) to the Red wire on harness and Black (Ground). I ended up cutting those and wiring them up (Heat Shrinking) to have a solid connection. You don't want to have a loose ground or power wire to your amp. You can damage the amp. On the amp side, these are the speaker wires that you'll have to cut the RCA Female Connections off. Ill give a wiring schematic on how I wired them up. If you're curious as to why I have three band-aids on my fingers. Put the fan cover back on your fan after servicing it. These are the wires going to your door speakers. Alpine Amp Setting I stuffed the behind the radio between the front window and the dash. There are two T screws up there that you'll need to take out so that you can pry that up to push it back there. Also, I had to extend the wires on the amp (the harness side that is short) that way i could tune it while it was plugged in. I set my HPF for both front and rear to 60hz (The mid-range sounds more controlled and its better for your speakers) and the can gain about 1/3 the way up. Here is picture before I tucked it down under the front dash. If you don't take the two T screws out, it'll be a pain in the but getting that amp to slide down in there. **** Make sure that you extend the wires hooking from the amp harness thats hooked in to the side that your gain controls are. I had to call it a night because of this and start fresh in the morning. You can not tune the amp and put it under the dash without extending the harness with 4 pairs of speaker wires. I dont see why alpine made one harness to their amp 2' long and the other harness 4 inches.**** The smaller harness with the RCA's is there on the right in the picture below. Just do your self a favor and extend those 1' or 2' before you start! Blue Remote Wire Here's the fuse i used for the remote wire. This is the driver side fuse box. I did purchase: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085MGP931/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Micro2 Circuit Fuse, they changed the fuses since the last time I did this. For now, this will work. Make sure you put it on the left side so if it shorts and the fuse pops, there will no longer be power provided to the accessory wire. Links: Auto Trim Removal $6.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JVP1MRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Heat Shrink Butt Connectors $19.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3JJRY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Heat Gun $24.98 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Furno-300-Heat-Tool/1000117511 Speaker Wire @13.49 https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-altavoces-calibre-Alambre-Transparente/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=speaker+wire&dchild=1&keywords=speaker+wire&pd_rd_i=B006LW0W5Y&pd_rd_r=1997eadc-d49a-4e40-aaa0-faa3aee1769e&pd_rd_w=PHCQV&pd_rd_wg=FVXdz&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=FTQJ0H6HRHDS508JN91M&psc=1&qid=1592688694&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc Micro2 Fuse Tap $10.79 https://www.amazon.com/Types-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Fuse/dp/B085MGP931/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2Q96BZOCG0RMI&dchild=1&keywords=micro2+fuse+tap&qid=1592688821&s=apparel&sprefix=Micro2+%2Cautomotive%2C160&sr=1-6 Wire Crimps https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-Crimping-Pliers/1001879018 Noico Sound Deadening https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Insulation-Self-Adhesive-Deadening-Material/dp/B07TKXMPH7/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=noiko+sound+damping&qid=1592689651&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUQjlHUUdCV0dNVkgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMzM3MDgyOUg4NEFCNFk4UU5IJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNjEyMTEzRDc5NVo2QVA4VFpCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

David, I wouldn't flush your transmission unless you're certain that there's been prior maintenance (flush and or pan drop) on the transmission. If you aren't sure and don't intend on using the Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP 124715 to flush it, I would recommend a pan drop with the recommended transmission fluid that is provided in your owners manual. Keep up with these pan drops every 30k. The reason I say this is because ive flushed my transmission at 120k on a 2012 Avalanche with no prior pan drop or flush and ended up having to rebuild it. This was also the case for a 2007 Avalanche with only a pan drop at 110k and a flush at 160k. I lost both of these transmission with no more than -2k on it after the flush. From my understanding, if you do not flush or pan drop before 60k, the clutch material in the fluid helps the clutch disks grab so that your transmission can shift. If you remove this material, your transmission can start slipping. I did a pan drop at 61k on my vehicle so I was comfortable on this one to do a proper flush and cut the risk of damaging the transmission. From my research, if you dont pan drop ever 30-60k, DO NOT flush UNLESS you're having issues that your mechanic or dealer recommends you flushing it. AKA Torque converter shutter. If the fluid in your transmission is bright pink then you could assume there's been prior maintenance. If its really dark pink with some or a lot of black, DONT FLUSH! Pan drop if it still has some pink. If its stone cold black, ride it out as long as you can. The probability of it slipping are extremely high. If you're 80% certain its a shutter then "I" (NOT A MECHANIC) would recommend flushing it. Dont flush unless you want to spend 3k-5k on a rebuild. Garrett (NOT A MECHANIC or a DEALER)

David, If you ever have the opportunity to record it and stick it on YouTube. Post the link on here so that I can check it out. I'm interested in the issue your truck is experiencing. Its ironic that were having different issues right around the same speeds. You might look up some information on the torque converter shuttering in transmissions. Its not just the Silverados that are doing it. Its been a recurring issue on various vehicles transmissions. Good luck, Garrett

David, The "shake" occurred around 55mph (It was slight vibration around this speed) and around 73mph-75mph+ my console would shake back and forth. I did not record it but i will attach a link, from a guy on youtube that was experience the same issue.

Its not necessary, but I have done a lot of research and to me, it wont hurt to put 1 or 2 bottles in your transmission. Its supposed to help your transmission as they get older. Its personal preference, I try and take extra measures. That way I know I tried everything. Follow up on here so I know how it goes. I hope its the solution for your problem. I almost sold the truck because of it.

Fixing the Chevy Shakes! Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP 124715 \ My 2016 Silverado with 82,000 miles has had the shaking issue for a couple years or the 30,000-40,000 miles. This issue for me occurs around the 70 mph-80 mph range. The center console would shake so bad that I would have to dial back the speed to below 72 mph. Measures I have taken to resolve the “Chevy Shakes” None of these worked. 1) Re-balance old tires Free 2) Purchased new tires $1,200 3) Alignment $84 4) Re-balance Drive Line $160 5) Road-master Shock Absorbed $500 (This did help some of the shake mostly the handling and ride) Fixed the issue!! 1) Transmission flush with the correct transmission fluid $200 (Which does not come in transmission from factory) Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP 124715 I was able to flush the transmission myself. There are guides online that can walk you through it if you have the time and skill. Here is a Link: 4L60E Transmission Flush Guide https://www.newgmparts.com/4l60e-transmission-flush-guide Took me 4 hours and I was able to flush transmission and change motor oil as well. The dealership wanted $140 for diagnostic and $750 for flush. Since the transmission was my last hope. I purchased the fluid from Summit Racing for $160 and flushed it myself. Amateur tips: If you decide to do the flush yourself, do not pull ½” line on the cooler or the top one You’ll being changing your motor oil too! Do not ask me how I know this. A quick overview of how I flushed my transmission. 1) Pulled 3/8” transmission line out the cooler on the passenger side. I did the by pulling the black keeper down and removing the E-Retaining clip. I then pushed a 3/8” hose in the cooler and a 3/8” hose over the trans line and fastened them into a 4-quart bucket. a. If you are doing this by yourself make sure to be careful. If the hoses are not fastened or held down into the bucket, you could make a big mess. 2) You or your helper (Preferably a helper) turn the vehicle on. Fluid came out of the transmission hose and not out of the cooler. I am not a mechanic but, in some videos, I watched, I have seen fluid pushed out of the cooler. There is a lot of pressure from the pump in the transmission, if a hose pops off, you are going to want someone to turn the vehicle off. 3) With both hoses placed inside a bucket with measurements on it, have your helped turn the vehicle over until there are four quarts or you start seeing bubbles. Kill the truck and do your pan drop. a. Pan drop pro tip. The pan is extremely difficult to get out because the exhaust is right under the pan. If you place a jack on a board and a strap under the board rapped around the exhaust. Pump the jack up to the frame and tighten down on the strap, slightly pulling the exhaust down (1/4”-1/2”). It does not take much. b. Second pro tip. Purchase a handheld pump from the part store or Walmart. They range from $7-$20. Use it to pump the fluid out of the pan when drop. It will prevent you from making one big mess and covering you and the floor with transmission fluid. Trust me, its worth it! 4) Pull the pan and clean it. The gasket is reusable. You can purchase just a filter from the part store for less than $40 or both for less than $50. 5) Tighten bolts in a cross pattern and re fill transmission with either 8 quarts or however much you were able to get out. I measured exactly 4 quarts in the pan. 6) Once its filled, have your partner drain another 4.5-5 quarts out while shifting through P,N, and Drive. This way you get out as much as you can in the transmission. The fluid should be clean and pink. 7) Fill the transmission back up with however many quarts you pull out MINUS ONE!. This way you can put one or two bottles of Lucas Transmission Non-Slip. This is also supposed to help with the shuddering issue and allowing your seals to swell. This is to prevent leaks. a. I was able to put two bottles in. ? Do not add Lucas additive until the transmission is at operating temperature. You will need to fasten the trans line back to the cooler making sure the E Clip is fastened securely. 9) The transmission should hold somewhere around 12.5 quarts. I purchased 14 from summit to make sure I had enough to flush out the old (Fluid comes out clean and pink) 10) DO NOT OVER FILL TRANSMISSION. Watch tons of YouTube until you are comfortable. Add a half a quart at a time and allow it to run down the tube (where the dipstick goes, 10-15 minutes) before you check it again. If anyone would like to reach out to me regarding this issue, feel free. Fluid: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-124715-1 Here is a helpful link provided by Chevrolet giving details on the issue. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11127