Brian Shaw

Thanks for the video. Love SMA videos. Eric is one of the best. I did check all my frame grounds this past summer. All connections were cleaned to bare metal, so there are no issues with those. Like I stated on the other post, I'm going to replace the negative battery cable, and use my NOCO GENIUS 5 smart battery charger to keep the battery fully charged this winter. It's a one year Auto Zone battery, but it was at 11.94 volts before I started it last. I only drive the truck two times a week which probably explains all the issues I've been having lately.

Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I took off the dash and checked those grounds back in September. They were both fine. I'm going to replace the negative battery cable, since they're a known issue too. Since I only drive my truck twice a week, I'm also going to keep a charger on it to keep the battery fully charged during the winter.

I tried to start my vehicle today, and got the dreaded clicking noise. Had dash lights, but they were flashing on and off. Tested my one year old battery, and the state of charge was at 47%, and it showed 12.01 volts. Plugged my OBD scanner in, and it couldn't boot up...all the LED diodes were flashing, and the screen would go on and off, then it just went blank. After the OBD scanner screen went dead, everything in the truck was dead as well. No dash lights, no dome lights, and the remote wouldn't lock the doors. This same situation happened in the summer. I had the truck towed to a shop, and they reported that the truck started for them. When I got the truck back home, I cleaned all the frame grounds, and checked the grounds under the dash, which were OK. Four weeks ago, my HVAC control panel went dead along with the heat while going to the store. It turned back on 5 minutes later. What could be the issue? Could it be a computer module going bad?

Thanks for your reply. I'll try that, but I just watched a YouTube clip posted by South Main Auto Repair that repaired a 2014 GMC Sierra with the exact same issues. This truck's control panel was shutting off in really cold temperatures, just like mine, and then would suddenly come back on. It ended up needing a new HVAC control module. I'm hoping that it's just a loose connection, because a new HVAC control module would have to be recalibrated at a shop.

My 2014 Silverado for the most part has been trouble free. However, for the past 3 years, my HVAC control panel will randomly shut off in the dead of winter, especially when the temperatures are below 20 degrees. After driving for @10 minutes with the heat cranking, the entire HVAC control panel will shut off, including the control knob lights. Then after @5 minutes, the control panel will turn back on, and act fine for the rest of the drive. This happens 2 to 3 times during the winter. I should mention that I just recently checked the grounds under the dash, located by both A pillars, and they were fine. I also cleaned up all the grounds on the frame this past summer. Can my problem be resolved by a HVAC system reset, or is the HVAC control module going bad?

Greetings everyone. First post for me. I own a 2014 Silverado Z71 with the 4.3L engine. It has @30,500 miles, and it has been Krown rust proofed every year since I live in Upstate NY. Two days ago I drove my truck to the town hall to pay my school taxes. Backed the truck into a parking spot, then shut and locked my door using the key fob. When I came back to the truck, my key fob wouldn't open the door. I used the key to unlock it, and immediately noticed I had no dash or interior lights. Truck wouldn't start. I had no power...no dash lights, no accessories, and the key fob was dead. Truck acted like someone had removed my battery, which I bought and installed 8 months ago. Two hours later it was towed to a local shop, and they were able to start it right up. They kept the truck overnight, and the next day they were able to start and drive my truck with no issues. I just picked it up and everything works normally, including the key fob. The mechanic had no idea what caused the problem, and didn't bother diagnosing because of time constraints. Could I have a grounding issue to the truck's frame, a faulty negative battery ground cable, or a G218 ground issue under the dash? Can an OBD reader be used to find any code that might be responsible for this issue? Thanks for any help!