Idahoan6-0

I have a '92 K3500 I'm working to part out, and I have someone who wants one of the dually fenders. I got the damaged one they didn't want off, as I wanted to make sure I was removing it properly, and it appears to have some sort of self tapping bolts that goes into the fender (?). How are these supposed to be removed? I'm guessing that self tapping screw/bolt is supposed to stay in the fender, but how would i stop those from turning when the nut has a light coating of rust holding it in place? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks for the info, I am looking to run duals. I'm gonna check the body builder manuals for the frame differences, but from what I've seen they seem pretty close. I'm also running with a 6.0 vortec, so power shouldn't be an issue. I can't imagine that axle not being able to handle that, even with the gearing being so high. After some further research it looks like all the dimensions for the actual mounting are just about the same, except the leaf mounting points are about an inch different per side. Is that tolerable or do I need those mounts moved over (or the leafs spaced out from the frame?)? Also looks like I can relocate the spring perches if everything else works together, and it looks fairly easy just takes a bit of time.

Recently I picked up an older '92 k3500, and did a transmission swap. Sadly the transmission I got had already started going out, and with the old motor it's not worth putting more money into it for me. That being said, I'm thinking of swapping the rear end into my 02 3/4 ton. I've heard the axles are different widths, is this true? If so, could I swap the leafs and all from a long bed dually to a short bed? And one more thing- I'm driving down to California shortly to pick up a camper. Well within my 3/4's rear axle capacity. Could I swap the front wheel spacers on my dually to the current rear axle and stick the duals on? With a 16 hour total drive ahead, I'd much rather have the duals for stability in the back and protection from blowouts. Is this something that'd be safe? I'm running short on time with a sliding fiver hitch still needing to get installed, so swapping leafs and the axle before the trip would take too much time. Thanks for any input

I definitely do have the 4L60E, as I have the 8 bolt axle but not the HD. I'll definitely look into the frictions and make sure they don't add additionals, thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely look through the parts lists and make sure everything is there, and I have thought about swapping in a used and reselling afterwards. There are a few local, including a few for under $500. Reason I'm thinking of doing a higher stage kit is that I do have some aftermarket work and my trailer's pretty heavy, so I figured going above and beyond wouldn't hurt. Some of these kits were advertised as having a stronger gears 3 and 4, so would there be any downside to a higher stage kit (outside of cost, of course)?

I currently have an '02 Sierra with the 6.0L and the 4L60E. Tranny started shifting weird when going to overdrive, figured I need to do a rebuild sooner than later. I started looking at master kits, and they're all labelled "stage 2 heavy duty", "stage 3", "stage 4", and even "stage 5". I've heard that this is the shifting hardness, with higher stages shifting harder. If I'm looking for something to stand up to some fairly heavy towing, what stage should I be going for? One of the sites have suggested a stage 2, but I'm not sure if that's universal for the 4L60E or just for that company. And- just to double check, as I'd rather not get 'er open and realize I'm missing parts- a master kit is all I need for something like this, correct? Any help is appreciated. And yes, I do know what I'm getting into. I'm working with a friend who's done a tranny rebuild before, and I'm expecting a 4-5 day project.