CamGTP thanks for the tip I was able to get the old axle out but I broke the parking brake cable when I was doing so. It never worked anyway so I’m just going to ignore that for now but will fix it in the near future. The U-bolts had to be cut as they were not coming off with all the rust. The replacement axle will go in tomorrow once I pick up the new bolts up at the parts store. One of the brake cables broke while removing it from the junkyard truck. If I have to custom bend the brake lines is it flared or double Flared and at what angle?
i have a 1996 chevy C1500 and i started hearing a grinding from the rear a few weeks ago and just thought it was the driveshaft carier bearing. was so much worse as the mechanic says the pinion seal went out which dried the system causing damage to the bing, ring and pinion with a $1400 rebuild bill. i got a used 10 bolt rear end from a lower milage junkyard truck of the same gear ratio and need a step by step of what i should remember when dropping the old one and putting the new one in for those who have taken on this project.
so after the last month I have changed the plugs, wire, rotor, shocks, idler arm and bracket, rear pinion seal, pumpkin gasket and oil, radiator, battery, drum shoes, and added a trailer brake controller. finally ready to do some serious driving and I get a P1870 code while pulling the pop up to the campground. we made it there but i need this thing in running shape for taking the camper to sturgis in 2 weeks please help. I just order this product off amazon a TCC valve upgrade replacement by Fitzall and also going to test the TCC PWM soleniod anything else i can do?
old bolt was mangled beyond recognition but i called my local chevy dealership and they didnt have the thread size but they did have the bolt in stock just charged $3.99 per bolt when i could have got it for .50 at ace hardware. but either way i got it in there
so i was replacing the front shocks on my 1996 chevy c1500 and there are two bolts that attach the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. one of the bolts head snapped off. i was able to get it out but no idea what thread it is to buy a new one at the hardware store as it is now mangled beyond recognition. anyone know what bolt I need to buy?
okay so i think i have the smaller of the two options but am unsure. im going to take the bed off so i can see the top of the tank and get access to the sending unit and replace it and makse sure that i get the reight one depending on the size tank. what were the two sizes in gallons?
So I just bought a 1996 5.7 fuel injection c1500 that needs some work as the check engine light is on but that I will take care of thats my next project. My main concern is that when the tank is empty it says 1/2 full on the guage and when full it says way past fullon the gauge. Please advise weather to pull the bed off and replace something inside the tank or if its the gauge or something else completely.
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