HiyoSilverardo_Away

Going to add a little more to this topic for future folks that are looking for information. Being that this is the second time I have done this, I learned one big thing, label the wires and maybe even go as far as label, provide notes. While the fuse cover has some of this information, it is not necessarily the easiest, so I used my label marker and made labels with the information in the picture attached. The elusive Switch 5 wire, there are several youtube videos out there that will tell you about this wire. Unless you need the beacon, cutting the wire does nothing bad, just tape off the side of the harness plug or detach the pin in the plug and pull it out . One note, it does not require the ignition switch to be turned on. I also found that it looks like the wire is 12 or 14AWG. The first time around I ran 16AWG the items I wanted to power, I won't do that again. Hopefully this bit of information is helpful to someone down the road.

Folks with the upfitter switches, I have installed them twice now. The first time I just connected all of my wires under the dash but this time I made a harness using 12AWG, connected to the 5 wires for the switches and ran this harness back into the engine bay. Basically did not like the first time around routing all of the wire etc. from the cab, just wanted a nice play to do it similar to like what the Fords have done with their upfitter switches. I have a water tight box, a distribution block, and plenty of wire to place pretty much anywhere under the hood. Has anyone else done anything like this and are there any suggestions of good place to mount something like I have described . My first install was with my 2019 1500 the second is with my 2021 2500HD with the dual battery with tray, minus the battery- . I am thinking maybe somewhere over in that part of the hood, but really seeking other's ideas. I am assuming many who have installed the upfitters wished like me my first time around that I could have had a way to do something under the hood versus the dash, everytime I wanted to add something.

I gave up on dealerships a long, long time ago. Unfortunately the issues were during the "covid" year and while here in the free state of Texas, there were still limits on what the dealerships would allow, appointments and times really were not great especially if you had a job. Warranty - I have the original as well as extended as well... Not worth much though if it is brake related, even with less than 20k miles on it, the dealership told me if that they found brake issues it would be on me. Total crap! I spent around 150 bucks to replace the rotors on a final hunch.... issue went away... I had posted a video here earlier. I jacked it up after it sat over night and rotated my wheel by hand and you can hear the exact same thing I heard in your video, exactly the same. Odds are, there were bad batches of rotors... But that is my guess... Once the rotors and pads heat up the issue goes away. It reminds me of warped rotors, warped because of heat-braking at highspeeds, but in this case they were just warped naturally. One option might be to have the rotors turned, but I would be afraid that eventually it would return.

Hey, it definitely isn't/wasn't normal.... Eventually after a bunch of different things I tried, I eventually just replaced the rotor that was causing the problem.... and have not had that problem since... Really a pain in the neck!

Wow! I know some have reported the leaf springs as a problem... In a new truck I would never have thought the drive shaft, rear end, or anything related to those... I have been letting my truck sit for a day or so now... will be pulling it out of garage most likely tomorrow or Thursday... Hoping that it is still all clear! Will have to wait and see... @Sckidd91 , did the dealership say give you any indication of how wide spread the issue is and if they are finding other issues? I have been chasing this for over a year now....

Agreed... This however and unfortunately was not that... Sitting outside for long periods of time I have even seen some cars have a lite coating of rust... could be the salt in the air or something else.... What I have had unfortunately was a little different.. The video I posted earlier kind of gives you an idea of one of the symptoms... When I first started the journey, I had really hoped it was just go away, but it just got worse and worse, happening even after the first 100-1000 ft of rolling down the drive way...

Well for those following this and curious, after a lot of frustrating, think you have have but you don't moments, I think I may have found the issue. So it was related to the brakes as suspected. It was related to the caliper. The rear parking brakes (electric) best I can tell do some sort of self-test/check (maybe) every time, the first time you unlock the truck. The pads press against the rotor and then disengage. I don't drive it much and even less last year with everyone staying home. Most when seeing the video I posted earlier last year would say the same I was thinking, but did not really want to believe, the rotor is warped. I have helped friends with many a car that had warped front-end rotors where you press the brake when stopping and the front-end starts bouncing around. This one though never really expected this on a truck with less than 6k miles on it. I will say though I have noticed a huge difference after removing and replacing. I am going on over a week now and no noise and no issues. It looks like I just had a bad rotor on the passenger side. What a pain in the neck. Of course dealerships and the like give you the ole song and dance, welp brakes, those are your problem sir.... Will keep everyone updated as the week and weeks grind on...

Offroadman, if you had the autodim already installed and working you had the "extra plug" that others talk about. A lot of the trucks have the standard flip mirror, the ole manual style mirror. For those instances the wire is tucked up in the headliner, glued to the headliner. You are good.

Glad I was able to help! Just remember take your time, keep track of the screws, don't forget some sealant/caulk for the bolts for the spoiler.... the mirror will come with the mount in a different place than expected, you may just have to move it to a better location for the power wire to reach... Also allocate about 2 hours or so.... does not take long, just tedious work... One of the best adds yet.... People who see it are amazed, one said, wish I had that in my Ford.... This weekend, installed the upfitter aux power switch bank... that was much more difficult than the camera/mirror... let us know how it turns out. Also any questions let us know...

84479945 - The harness you will need https://www.gmpartsoutlet.net/oem-parts/gm-harness-84479945?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpVZTZIgJjFVsTvCtVxD8K1RD85WywCBnPYCDhZmiKC95YKD8yMswDhoCQ40QAvD_BwE 84487008 https://www.gmpartsoutlet.net/oem-parts/gm-high-mount-lamp-84487008 I think you will also need the camera as well... something like: 84486910 (the third light description calls out that it is without the camera) https://www.ebay.com/itm/19-GM-3rd-Brake-Light-CAMERA-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-84486910-Reverse-BackUP-/284144845910 I can tell you with certainty that 84515287 replaced by 84515395, spoiler does not include the light, camera or harness. 84515395 Spoiler Assembly $127.69 1 $127.69 I almost made that mistake... that was the reason I went with the EBAY option of the light and harness, all-in-one... Others might be able to weight in, but I can tell you 100% certainty the spoiler does not come with the 3rdlight/camera and harness. It is tempting to think it will and that you will save a bunch by just buying the spoiler thinking it includes everything and that you will just remove the harness and light/camera and put it on your old spoiler and then toss the primed spoiler or try to sell it.

Hi Dennismc, don't buy the spoiler alone, it no longer comes with the camera and harness installed. You will use your own spoiler... Here are the parts you need: (I ordered from GM Part XPERTS, try all of the different parts distributors, the biggest difference will be the shipping cost) 13536995 Mirror Inside $553.84 1 84335461 Cable $28.26 1 (this is the cable that will run from the harness connection to the mirror) GM OEM 3rd Brake Light Lamp with Camera 2019-2021 Chevy Silverado Sierra https://www.ebay.com/itm/264900887988; $115.00 Another one is showing up on EBAY as well... https://www.ebay.com/itm/84487008-3rd-Brake-Light-With-Camera-and-Harness-2019-20-Sierra-Silverado-1500/233868172518?hash=item3673a11ce6:g:ir0AAOSwMONgCfwm Let me know if you have other questions. It was an awesome upgrade! It has made hauling in the flat trailer or boat trailer a lot better... not constantly trying to see if everything looks ok... Just make sure to allocate about 2 hours and take your time...

Hi, For anyone thinking about doing the swap out in their truck, I would suggest doing it! The parts are pretty simple to find. I would try to order the rear-brake/camera with cable assembly off of EBAY, (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-OEM-3rd-Brake-Light-Lamp-with-Camera-2019-2021-Chevy-Silverado-Sierra/264900887988?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648) you will save a few bucks doing that and probably get it a lot faster than direct through some of the GM parts houses. You may have to order the coax harness (cable) and mirror from them, but like someone said for around $700.00 you will have what you need. I started on the swap out last night around 6PM and ended around 8:30PM, with a mini-break for dinner in the middle... Things to be aware of, the video that is mentioned in the on-going dialogues ( (1247) 2019-2021 Chevrolet Silverado / GMC Sierra Rear Camera LCD OEM Mirror - Easy Plug & Play Install! - YouTube), I strongly encourage those who are going to do this to watch it. You will need a good set of torque bits. I also suggest a small tube of silicon to seal up the bolt holes for the spoiler assembly. Also patience. Things like the center light may be a pain for some. Others might have issues with just getting the headliner back up. Just take a little bit of patience during the process. One caution, for some reason after I reassembled everything, the first time I fired up the truck I had the airbag service light and warning. I turned the truck off let it sit for about 15 minutes or so and then tried again, and it went away. I don't recall anyone saying they had that happen, but it might. Just be careful. The whole process did not take long, just a lot of screws/bolts/nuts and tight places. I had installed the auto-dimming mirror week number two of owning the truck. That was an easy thing to do. Replacing that with the camera/mirror is a big upgrade. Well worth the money for parts and well worth the time spent installing. The you tube video explains a lot of what you will need to be aware of, just take your time and don't rush it. If you can turn a wrench or screwdriver you should be able to do this. Allocate about 1.5 to 2 hours tops. The biggest time consumer is unscrewing everything and moving the headliner around enough to get to the bolts and nuts holding the spoiler in place. Putting it back together does take time, but is not that bad...

For those following this, I have completely replaced the passenger side caliper with a brand new one... the rubbing is not there at the moment, but I still have noises on an initial movement forward, however it is now mainly when I ride over a bump or drive off a ledge and the rearend bounces a little... Could it be the leaf springs or possibly the shocks now? I am starting to wonder now if it has been a couple of different things I have been chasing.. The Parking Brake, I learned a lot about that thing for sure. The motor actuator is "neat" but like the other older method better... I will follow-up more as I continue the noise in the rearend at startup and after the first roll

Well for those following this thread, after having unplugged the power lead to the motor on the passenger side brake caliper (the emergency brake), I have no issues with the scrubbing, rubbing. I will let everyone know how the week progresses...

Welp, confirmed, not the fuel pump. I really wish it were that but it wasn't. I disconnected the connector to the "parking brake" motor on the passenger side, unlocked the doors with the key fob (which at that point I would have heard the motors spin up before), this time no motors on either side spinning... Drove it around a little tonight and parked it... Of course I have the "maintenance on the parking brake, idiot light" on while driving. I will let the truck sit tonight and see how things go... Fingers crossed this is it...

I will go out tonight and disconnect the leads from the caliper and motor attached and will confirm that... With the cars and trucks I have owned, the priming of the fuel pump, it does not sound like it is coming from the opposite side of the truck. This is on the passenger side... but stranger things have happened... and after disconnecting I will leave it like that after driving tonight and see what happens...

I pretty sure it is all related to the rotor and caliper.... something is not working correctly. I have looked at replacing the caliper a few weeks ago, the caliper itself is about 250.00 not including manhours, someone replacing it... I really think it is related to that parking brake motor and caliper....

Hi, What I have done so far... I have taken the caliper completely off, compressed it, put it back together, rotated the tire by hand as in the video, no noise. Drive the truck around, applying brakes at stop signs etc. and then parked it. The next day when I come out and unlock the truck you hear in the rear, the motors from the parking brake "spin." As soon as I hear that I know, I know that I will have the scrubbing return. The scrubbing noise eventually goes away and I suspect that the pads and rotor just eventually seat, "warmup" etc.... I really believe it is related to the braking system. I have not had a chance to redo what I just explained and disconnect the power to the motor and see if it happens again. That will be the piece of the puzzle that I think will answer the question, once and for all. It has been a huge disappointment in this truck for me. I really like it and have enjoyed driving it except for the "rubbing/scrubbing" noise.

Sorry to hear that! I have yet to fix mine either... I really think it is related to the electric motor on the rotor, the electric motor that is used to engage the "parking-brake" action. The reason I call it action is that the same pads are used for normal braking or the parking brake. Unlike the older systems where there were two separate systems one for normal braking and the other for parking brake, they are using the same... I really think it is related though to the motor and possibly something that needs to be adjusted somehow with the braking system...

Duramax dude and Mobud Unfortunately I have not taken it to the dealership yet. The week I had scheduled we were placed under quarantine. Not was sick but... about a month later we were hit with the big nasty... In the meantime I have not been able to schedule some time yet... Hoping in the net week or two. What I have done which worked just once was remove the wheel and caliper, compress the piston and then reinstall. Of course no scrubbing. I drove it and no problems. Brakes worked great. I parked it, left running for a little while jumped in and no problems. I then parked it over night and locked it. Got up the next morning and unlocked it. As soon as you do you here the motors for the brakes spinning. Get in and the problem is back. Next time before I rolled out of the drive, I resorted initially to something I know everyone here will say is not good, I used some I squirted some WD-40 on both sides of the rotor near the pads. The problem was gone. I did this every other day. The days I did not, problem, the days I did, not problems. I have two thoughts, that little motor that is used for the emergency brake, if there is a way to adjust it I will. The other thought, disconnect the wire going to it or look at adding a resistor, or something. Disconnecting it though will throw the "go take the truck to the stealership and have them fix your brakes" light... Of course I bet it resets if you plug in back in so may not be an issue. I have some time over the next few days so going to try a few things. The last resort will be to just buy a new caliper assembly and install it. Thinking maybe the original is bad? Really am irritated by it for sure. I am concerned also about undue pad wear as well as possible damage to the rotor. Has anyone else found anything out?

Well I think I have finally narrowed it down, but have not been able to figure out the best course of action to resolve the issue. I let the truck sit for a day and night and then jacked it up just enough off the ground. In the video (hope it attaches correctly) you can hear the noise. Now it does go away after a few hundred feet of driving, but it sounds pretty bad. So here is what I ended up doing to narrow it down. I removed the caliper, compressed it, inspected the pads, they are virtually brand new, less than 1,000 miles. I put it all back together and no noise. I drove it around with minimum stopping. Parked it for a day and a night, no noise. Then I engaged the parking brake on a hunch. Disengaged it, drove it around the driveway a little and then wham, there was the noise! With the new emergency brakes/parking brakes, they use an attached motor of some sort to engage the caliper of the actual brake shows, not a separate set of brake shoes or calipers. I suspect that the motor or something needs to be adjusted some how to back-off maybe a small amount, but not sure. If you listen to the truck when you first unlock the doors you can hear what I think are the motors disengaging or at least spinning. This is pretty annoying! I had, had a trip planned to the dealership, but the nasty little bug Covid struck some folks and had to cancel the appointment. Anyone here though know anything about this new parking brake setup and maybe how to adjust it? Avoiding the dealership is always on my list of things to do, avoid at all costs if at all possible. Rearendnoise Example1-1.mp4

When driving forward the camera can be activated on radio display, but it only stays on for 8-10 secs and then turns off.

If it is the rotors for me, shoot.... Brand new truck with only about 5k miles on it.... Will keep looking and report back. Please do the same.

Curious if anyone has figured out a hack or method to make the rear camera (tailgate) stay on the radio display while driving. You can hit the camera button on the radio and it will display, while driving, but for only like 10 secs. It would be really nice to have that available, say for instance carrying a load of wood in a trailer. While you can see the trailer in the mirror and about 1/4 of the wood, it would be awesome to be able to see the whole trailer and the load. I am sure there is someone out there that thinks it might be a distraction, so they have time limited it. Kind of like that auto-start thing where they forced it on you. Of course, a fix was quick to be provided.. ?

Thanks all! I initially thought it was the front too... It irritated me so much, and I really, really, REALLY, hate going to the dealership for anything, I bought some new pads for the rear, couldn't find any for the front... I replaced the rear pads... I was hopeful that it would go away, but it did not. One thing I will ask though, with the brakes, unlike the older calipers of yester-year it seemed as though you need to do something more than just compress the piston. I was able to get the piston down to a reasonable level and get the new shoes in, but curious, because it did not seem like I would be able to if the shoes were so new to begin with. I will continue on the hunt for the mystery sound. If anyone else has some experiences please let me know. Once I figure it out, definitely going to let everyone else know!