George Androulakis

Okay there are apparently two different yet unique sets of TMPS sensors that work for our 2021 Suv's you can get the old style looking sensors but they have to have a 4 on them, not the CE of the sensors of the past. These will work but NEED a tool to program them (my amazon tool worked fine). They will NOT auto learn. I have attached a screenshot of the tech link article regarding this. There is also the newer generation sensor that is designed to auto learn, the sensor is physically larger. These are labeled 4S and these are the auto learn sensors. See other attachment. Hope this clears things up. George

Hey, I have a 2021 Tahoe RST - same situation. I bought these from amazon for the blinkers - worked fine, no issues. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q8RZRZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought these reverse lights, and had to add load resistors in order to get rid of the error messages. So far so good. But they are not can bus error free as advertised. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FHNZKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They claimed to be can bus error free but they lied, or at least they weren't for my Tahoe. I didn't bother with the brake lights because honestly they were behind the red plastic its not that obvious. The blinkers and reverse lights are a substantial improvement in light output over stock, especially at night. Hope this helps, George

Hey guys so I got a 2021 Tahoe. At the dealer I plugged my phone in and selected the wireless car play option. Constant skipping etc so I reverted to wired car play. I finally figured out how to turn off wireless car play in my phone(so that the phone would connect to Bluetooth as a phone / music source, without going into car play mode) this way I can keep the phone connected to Bluetooth and plugged in to usb only for car play purposes. So now the next question. Has anyone used the rear USB’s to connect an iPhone via a USBc to lightning cable? I think running the cable along the console to the cupholder is a better solution than to the front USB’s, because it doesn’t block the wireless charger. Thanks in advance, George Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I setup a 250gb SSD from amazon. Formatted ms dos FAT. Has about 160gb of music and came with a USB c cable. It’s been a little picky where sometimes it won’t recognize it and you have to remove the cable and plug it back in. It also seems to do the “media indexing” song and dance sometimes, but for the most part it works well. I attached it with a little piece of velcro. I really wish these new trucks still had USB’s in the center console or glove box like the previous ones did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picked up a 2021 Tahoe RST 4wd. Love it but not a fan of the factory 22” wheels. I either want all black or chrome. Does anyone know what will fit these trucks without a spacer? Also what tire size are you running. The stock 275/50 seems a bit anemic. Thanks in advance! George Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found that most of the "washing out" of the reverse camera at night was a result of the LED license plate lights I added. I have been meaning to replace them with the original halogen bulbs, but I have to find the housings (my led's were replacement housings). They LOOK great, but that much light aimed up at the tailgate where the camera is overwhelms the camera at night. Take care, George

So Thanks to your help, I got it working! What I ended up doing was getting some sold core 18ga wire I had laying around and making two pigtails, Stripped the wire about 5/8 of an inch on each side, and inserted them into the BCM connector. They went further than I thought. Then I soldered each end of the diode to the pigtail. Taped the pigtails to the wire loom going to the brown connector, wrapped the diode in tape and taped that to the outside of the harness. Best of all, it works! I now have fogs on with parking lights etc.... Thanks again for all the advice / help! George

That's what ive been trying to do, but just using the legs of the diode, not t-taping the factory wiring. Maybe its just not going in deep enough to make the electrical connections? See pics below. Thanks! George

Hey Guys, So I have a 2017 Silverado Double Cab, non bose. I added the kicker VSS Soundstage setup, the one with both the amp for the cabin speakers and the 10" sub under the passenger rear seat. So here's my next question. Does anyone know the power output of the add on amp? Will it properly drive a set of 6.5" components in the front door. Overall it's a great upgrade but the biggest limitations are the factory paper speakers imho. Has anyone replaced the speakers in the front doors in combination with the Kicker upgrade? Thoughts? Results? Thanks in advance, George

Hey Guys, So I have a 2017 Silverado Double Cab, non bose. I added the kicker VSS Soundstage setup, the one with both the amp for the cabin speakers and the 10" sub under the passenger rear seat. So here's my next question. Does anyone know the power output of the add on amp? Will it properly drive a set of 6.5" components in the front door. Overall it's a great upgrade but the biggest limitations are the factory paper speakers imho. Has anyone replaced the speakers in the front doors in combination with the Kicker upgrade? Thoughts? Results? Thanks in advance, George

Hey Guys, So I got some LED license plate lights from Amazon, they are the type that replace the whole housing. They work really well and put out a lot of light, but I've noticed that at night they wash out the backup camera. Has anyone had this experience as well? Any idea what to do? (tape over part of the lens or something) or just switch back to the incandescent tag lights? Thanks in advance, George

SO I tried this this afternoon. Thought I was doing everything right, but it just doesn't work. Lights still operate as normal. These are the diodes i bought from amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008UFX95U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I tried the 10-22 jump with the stripe facing pin 22. On my 17 Silverado, seems like the #10 wire is brown and the 22 is blue. Am I doing something wrong, or did I get the wrong diodes or what? Help!!!! Thanks, George

Hey Guys, long time lurker first time poster. I leased a 2017 Double Cab in Aug 2017. Mostly because I wanted a pickup as a 3rd vehicle at the time, and didn't plan on doing all that much to it. All of that quickly changed. I did what I consider the "basic" mod package and learned a bunch along the way. In August of 2020, my lease was up, and I decided to buy the truck out, partly because I had grown attached to it, partly because I had it 75% of where I wanted it, and partly because I simply couldn't replace it for what my buyout was. So here are the basics. 2017 Silverado LT Double cab z71 with the all star package and 2LT package. Factory leather, 8" infotainment screen, HID's and the 5.3. Got the dealer to throw in the factory GM bedliner. Here's my initial setup: First thing I did was get the front windows tinted 20% to match the rest of the truck: Then I did a lift / level with a set of wheels / tires: Motofab 3" front 2" rear leveling kit. Hostile Alpha 20x10 -19 black wheels Toyo Open Country AT 33x12.50 20 tires This setup drove well and looked good, but at the time I didn't realize that it wasn't really right for the truck. At 17k miles I broke the passenger front ball joint.(in the middle of a trip no less) I guess the angles were just too steep. I started to do some research and I ended up with KSP Performance Tubular Upper Control Arms designed for a 2-4" lift I found on amazon, and had those put in. Ball joints were fine but I don't know if this was the shop that installed them, or what not but I come out one day and my alignment was WAYYYY off - I'm talking 30 degrees left for the truck to go straight. The passenger front tire had severe negative camber at this point. Back to the shop we go, and apparently the camber adjuster on the control arm let go and the alignment was screwed. It also chewed up the inner edge of the front tires pretty badly in rapid succession. I ended up having to replace the camber adjuster and got the truck re aligned, although I'm not 100% happy with the alignment even at this point because there is still a bit of negative camber on the front wheels. It drives / tracks straight at this point though. In retrospect I probably should have gone with the rough country forged upper control arms, I think they fix the angles a bit more. So then I added side steps, a rear bumper hitch step, and a front tac bar (that mounts to the frame via tow hook removal) - oddly one of the bolts was inserted so it couldn't be removed without cutting it off because there was no clearance for it to back out). It has a single row 20" LED light bar in it, hooked up to the truck via a wireless controller with a remote. I also added a trifold soft tonneau cover to keep the bed dry. Greatest thing ever, but the clamps tend to catch on the bedliner so clamping it down is a PITA. I also did an exhaust - a Gibson Metal Militia 4" Catback. Its LOUD, especially at cold starts.. And it drones some. At first I loved it, two years in I'm used to it but wish I had gone with something more subtle. I drove it this way for a while and was happy. Eventually the side steps started to rattle something awful, especially the drivers side. I would tighten the bolts back up but it wouldn't last long. Disclaimer - I was around 360lbs when I started out with this truck. I eventually got into a fitness routine and am 243 right now, but the fat man damage to to the rocker mounting points was done already. Turns out the nutserts were pulling out of the body, and it was making a mess. I really don't know why GM went with a rocker / body mount for the steps but its a poor design in my opinion. I have seen a couple body mount steps that are rated to 500lbs, and I may go that route, but for now I just took the steps off and am living with it as is. My wife hates it and my kids especially my 5 year old needs help getting in, but we have a boring Honda Pilot for family duties. At some point I scored a deal for the Kicker VSS Soundstage upgrade for the stereo. The one with the extra amp and the 10" sub under the rear seat. Installed that. Greatly improved sound but I still wish it had some more ummph on the front soundstage. I am considering replacing the OEM speakers to aftermarket units in the future. I also added a wireless charging pod to the center console lid - I have a jump seat truck, although the seat has never been folded up in my ownership. So now that I own the truck and the warranty ran out, I can do more of what I want. The truck is now at 30.400 miles.The only thing I have done post warranty is the Range Technology AFM disabler. Stops the god awful helicopter noises when it goes into 4cyl mode, and hopefully will cut down on oil consumption. I also put a new set of tires on the truck went with a 305/55/20 Sumitomo Encounter AT this time. It still rubs in reverse on tight turns but other than that it's fine. Here's the wishlist (or should I say to do list) LED Tail Lights LED Bed Lighting Some sort of audio upgrade (possibly new speakers first) Some BCM mods (fogs on with parking lights) Tow Mirrors Cold air intake - Thinking SB or K&N I'm considering a tuner to recalibrate tire size, disable AFM, and add a bit of power to the truck but I can't decide on which one. I have a buddy of mine who owns a body shop and I'm thinking about spraying the wheels, or a portion of them bronze. He did my buddy's yukon denali wheels and they came out beautiful. Eventually a REAL lift, probably a 6" and a jump to 35's. Here's a quick before / after shot of as it stands now..