AONYX

Had my 21 RST 3.0 for 6 months, just under 6k miles. Love it so far. I have had really no major issues so far. A couple small things...mainly being the infotainment system is glitchy when trying voice to text and with syncing with my samsung galaxy. The only other issue is that after the truck has been sitting in the heat, occasionally the AC won't come on when I start it. I have to turn off the AC and turn it back on once, sometimes twice, before it kicks in, this only happens occasionally. Haven't been back to the dealer since buying it, but I am going to get the oil changed and I'll mention it at that time For MPGs I am getting typically 20-22 for city driving. I was getting 33 with a tailwind down the VA eastern shore going around 60. More typically its 27-29 on the highway averaging around 26-28 for a 600 mile tank when it is mostly highway, and the manual calculation at the pump usually beats the computer by 1-2 mpgs. I am not a particularly heavy footed driver. Just towed a 6.5k lb travel trailer this past weekend, and I was averaging 13-14 going 55-62. Had no issues with towing either, felt like I had plenty of truck for the trailer. Overall, I feel like it has plenty of power, its not as quick a my MINI Cooper S, but quick enough for getting on the highway and passing if needed. No regrets so far.

I don't have any experience with the Tundra, but my neighbors had one in the early 2000s. Its just amazing to me that in the course of 2 decades they haven't been able to get the truck to crack 20mpg. Not everyone's main concern, but considering the efficiency of the other Toyota passenger cars, it just seems strange. Love my 3.0L duramax. I wasn't even looking at the Tundra based on the abysmal fuel efficiency especially when there are numerous other options available.

I use mine in the parking garage because I park about 3 inches from the wall and I don't want it to roll after placing it in park. It does seem like it comes on at random times in other places, but I haven't had an issue and just assumed I had set it myself.

I've got almost 2000 miles on my 3.0L. I am not currently towing anything and I primarily use this for highway driving, so I don't regen (that I am aware of) terribly often. I love it so far. I haven't really tried hard accelerations but the times that I have, have felt like there was more than enough power to pass or enter traffic. My best MPG (per the computer) was 37.2 for 25 miles...pretty sure that was a 60 mph country road followed by a several mile downhill stretch. Typically getting between 29 and 31 over longer distances. I noticed that adding power service diesel kleen cetane boost seemed to get me about an extra 1-1.5 mpg, based on my very unscientific method, as it seems impossible to find any diesel greater than 40 cetane in my area. I love it, but I don't tow currently and I don't care about racing anyone in my truck, and most of my miles involve some amount of highway driving.

Not sure why I would want to run an Airplane in my Truck. B20 is a Biodiesel blend. I referred to Tidewater VA for people who are familiar with it. I live in Norfolk, but all of the cities in the Tidewater are close enough to drive to. I wouldn't expect someone from Texas or Montana to know where I could buy Biodiesel near me over a thousand miles away.

I live in Tidewater Virginia and I have a 3.0L 1500 with about 1000 miles on it. I am interested in trying B20 in the truck. Does anyone have experience with it? Looks like the Diesel supplement says it should be fine to run. Its fairly new so I am not terribly worried about the fuel filter going bad so soon since there really shouldn't be much buildup yet. Anyone know how this affects MPG and performance overall? Im also trying to find a place that does public retail B20 sales. A lot of places require some sort of card access. Is this something that I, as someone without any commercial interest or fleet, can obtain? Thank you

I had an isolated issue recently with my 3.0L with just under 1000 miles. I had pulled up to Home Depot to drop off a tool rental. I got in and pressed the start button and it just started repetitively clicking but not turn over. It wouldn't stop when I pressed the start button again. It didn't stop until I opened my drivers door. I tried again and it started right up. Hasn't happened since. Seems more like an electrical issue than an issue with the engine.

I just bought a 21 3.0 Duramax Silverado and they sold me a 100k 6 year warranty. They quoted me 2300 (ish). I told them I wasn't interested because it made my payment too high per month and they cut the price of the warranty and my interest rate with just a few clicks and got it in my price range. I bought a carmax warranty for my Used MINI Cooper S several years ago. Cost me $2500, assumed it would pay off being a BMW product, but never used it once because the car has had no issues significant enough to justify paying the deductible on it. Its all a gamble. If it makes you feel better having it, then get it. If you don't want to pay for it then dont.

Hello all, I am new here, new to Chevy and new to trucks in general. I own a 2012 Mini Cooper S Coupe I bought used from Carmax and is almost paid off that I love and plan to keep. My commute is changing to more highway driving and I help my mom out on her small farm. I am looking at a new 2021 Silverado 3.0l RST with Leather and a sunroof. I have never bought a new car before and I was trying to get info on how I can avoid overpaying. It looks like the dealer has 3 of these nearly identical trucks, 2 in black and 1 in grey. They have discounted the price down by about $6000 including Customer cash to around the $49k range. They also list a similar truck with the Z71 package as closer to $46k based on the "Dealer discount" being higher, it has a standard bed, and I am more looking at the short bed because I park in a parking deck for the next few months. Any idea why they would list a truck that looks to be equipped the same but without a Z71 as higher than a truck with this package. I can afford to pay more, but I don't want to have to and don't want to get scammed. How much do you think I can get them down to and what approach should I take? I have read that you should find out the invoice price that the dealer paid, but I am not sure where to find this information. The websites I have seen so far to get the invoice price seem to just be scamming sites trying to get my personal information to bombard me with ads and phone calls. Thanks in advance for helping me with my naivety.