Good to know.
Are you saying yours was weather/temperature dependent also?
Also did your Traction Control and CEL lights come and go or once it started the lights stayed on till you got your new engine?
170K today but when it started last winter it was around 155K. Maybe my thinking is wrong but if there was something internal wrong with the engine, lifter, cam, etc. would it have gone all year and 15K without issues? Seems to only happen when it's below freezing and there is a lot of moisture in the air.
Anyone have these issues and found a solution?
Our 2017 6.2 Sierra started something similar last winter, mainly when it was below freezing and wet (going thru a carwash in the winter). Check engine light comes on and will flash, traction control will come one and engine will run rough. Code reader shows a misfire. I believe it was cylinder 8 last winter.
Fast forward to this winter and it's back. This time cylinder 5 misfire. This happened to us on Christmas eve when driving home (12 hour trip). Given the situation we had not choice and decided to continue driving thru it. For about 4 hours (until the roads dried up) the check engine light was on and would occasionally flash. When this started the traction control light was also on. However the Traction Control light would come and go. Every time the Traction Control light came on the oil pressure would rise (10 PSI or so) and as soon as the traction control light would go off, the oil pressure would drop back to normal. This was a clear repeatable pattern.
I have had a few people look at the truck including the local GMC dealership and they can't recreate the issue. Also they tell me no codes are saved that are any help.
I feel the issue is something electrical as it's triggered by low temperatures and moisture. The traction control light and oil pressure increase has me stumped.
I should note that the truck returns to normal once the Check Engine light goes off. We have put probably 15K on it since the issue first started last winter.
I did this back in 21 and recently tried hooking up the air box and am getting MAF P0101 CEL errors upon full throttle. Anyone in this thread have any advice on how to remedy this?
Back in 2021 I had a tree fall on my garage and did some minor damage to my 2017 Denali. Hood was going to be replaced so I opted for the Duramax hood. When I purchased the parts I ordered everything needed for the hood and ductwork under the hood except for the air filter box.
Fast forward to the end of last year and I decide it's time to make the hood functional. I purchased a duramax air box out of a junk yard and a open box rough country cold air kit really just for the pipe and fittings. Install came out as I planned. I reused the original 1500 MAF sensor. Truck sounded great but it would throw a P0101 MAF error. I could reset this and it seemed like when I put the pedal to the floor is when it would throw the code within the first 40 miles or so. After resetting this a few times I put the intake setup back to stock and the code hasn't come back. I suspect that the amount of air the sensor is seeing is beyond the sensors max air flow limit?
Any ideas if there is a way to make this work and not have the CEL. I do have the MAF sensor from the Duramax but I was hesitant to try that as I didn't want to create any additional issues.
I am in the same boat. I ordered the parts (or in some cases the replacement parts as some have been replaced by GM) from the original post. The online GM parts store I ordered them from didn't send the (6) Insulator Retainer Part Number: 11571159 which I think are push in plastic retainers for attaching the underhood insulation pad. However I need (8) of them if this is correct. Also I have nothing to go in the square holes nore the bolts to mount the underhood air duct to whatever goes in these square holes. I think they are supposed to be (8) metal clip but can anyone confirm? I don't trust the plastic license plate pop-ins given the amount of weight and that it's suspended.