Brunsk13

Got it figured out finally. One of the T connectors was faulty so I replaced it and boom, I'm in business. I set the dip switches back down, reset the EQ and WOW, this thing sounds great! Thanks for all the info to help make this sub finally come alive.

Yes, with the dip switches down (or 1 up), it does almost nothing, which was surprising compared to the volume it was previously putting out with the old wiring configuration. It's hitting good now but having the amp maxed out really concerns me.

Just rewired my sub from the front to the sub wire and I can notice a difference. It does hit more like the sub should, as does not have the full spectrum of music coming through it anymore, only the lows now. The only thing is that I had to switch all of the dip switches on the amp to up to get any volume from the sub. The wired gain knob from the amp is also full volume. The EQ set to +7, -1,+10. Does this sound right? I'm just worried the amp may overheat and shut off if it is played at this setting for an extended period?

Just curious, I'm getting ready to rewire my Kicker sub but looking at the original photos and then reading the wire color configurations, there looks to be a mismatch. The photo shows the Kicker green wire connected to a white wire that is then connected to the blue wire but it was stated that green connects to green? Just need some clarification before I dig into this. Also, does it take much to take the console apart?