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turbo15479

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Everything posted by turbo15479

  1. I moved my knock sensors to the front of the head on the passenger side and by the second spark plug on the driver's side. Running well with no codes for thousands of miles. Why remove the intake it you don't need to? Starting in 2007 GM moved the knock sensors to the sides of the block. Regardless what anyone tells you use AC DELCO sensors as any other ones will throw a code. I have friends who used other brands and they did not work. Amazon sells genuine GM knock sensors for 38.00 each. And if you want your knock sensors on the side of the block Jeg's sells aluminum mount blocks that attach to holes already on the side of the block to relocate the sensors there. They also sell a longer wiring harness that will connect to you connector at the rear of the intake manifold. To check a knock sensor with an ohm meter you should have 93K to 107K on your meter for a good sensor. Then you can put your multi meter on 2 volts and connect one lead to the sensor connector and the other to battery negative. When you tap on a metal part of the engine you should see a small voltage spike which shows the sensor is working. Light blue wire is passenger side and dark blue wire is driver's side. These test are done with engine and key off. The crystals in a knock sensor make their own voltage when vibrated.
  2. First of all I have been through this. Here is a link to look at for relocation https://www.jegs.com/i/ICT+Billet/335/551216-KN30/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjw-sqKBhBjEiwAVaQ9a-UQmnukjdd_SPaAfu7jAUpLhmLZ-VYiqnew745fOvtRRSmXcDqCPxoCeVYQAvD_Bw. Also use only AC DELCO sensors as other ones tend to be hit or miss on setting codes. I only relocated my passenger side sensor as it was the bad one. I relocated mine to the front of the passenger head where there is already a threaded hole the knock sensor will screw into. Amazon has Ac DELCO sensors for 38.00 each. I bought the correct connection to snap on the sensor at AutoZone and ran it to the sensor connector at the back of the intake manifold. I cut the light blue wire behind the connector and soldered this wire to it. The light blue wire is for the passenger side connector. I left the dark blue wire alone as the driver;s side was not throwing a code. If the driver;s side does throw a code there is a threaded hole by the spark plug I will use. Or you can buy the relocation blocks at the above link. My Tahoe is running fine with no codes.
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