Here we go… I bought a 2005 Silverado 1500 4wd crew cab for practically nothing. I replaced the power steering pump and lines. Then I went to replace the front suspension cross member. The existing one was nothing but rust, they even welded the control arm bolt to it. Anyway I cut out a rust free one from a Yukon and had it prepped to install after cutting mine out. So, before welding the new one in I disconnected the battery. After welding the new one in, paint, replacing the anti sway bar bushings and links, put the guards back on, and reconnected the battery. And to make sure I don’t leave anything out, I also cleaned up the two grounds under the drivers side door while the battery was disconnected because it was having light issues and the “service 4x4” was being displayed.
So, I hopped in to start it up. I also need to mention that this truck had all new keys/cylinders for the ignition and the doors. I have no idea about any past passlock issues, but the column cover wasn’t installed when I bought it, so… yeah… Anyway, I turn the key and I got the standard passlock “start.” I didn’t know about this issue so I started through the standard check list. Battery was good, gas in the tank, fuel pump on and pressure was spot on, and it would run if my buddy was spraying starting fluid in it nonstop. So if I have pressure to the rails and spark then something is telling the injectors to not work or something. That’s when I discovered all of this passlock craziness.
First I tried the three 10 minute relearn thing. Nothing. Then, a buddy of mine said his buddy at the dealership said just leave it in the on position for an hour and it'll relearn. Nothing. So, I was reading about the 2200 ohm bypass on some vehicles, but also read about measuring the resistance because it varies on models. So I measured mine. What’s strange is that with the key in the Off position I registered 9120 ohms and nothing when turned to the On position or starting. I say that’s strange because I watched a video of a guy who measured almost the same as me but I thought he measured the opposite, nothing in the Off position and the resistance in the On position. I cut the yellow wire and spliced in two resistors in series that added up to 9200 ohms to the black wire. The difference is within tolerance from my understanding. Nothing. So, then tried the 30 minute reset and nothing still. I even tried a 10,000 ohm resistor and the 2200 and doing two for 4400. Nothing. They were all wired properly and I did the relearn after each. I’ve literally spent the whole day doing this. Nothing but a new battery that’s now been charged twice.
What’s strange is that the windows don’t work with the key in the On position but everything else does. Also, the security light only flashes when I turn the key to the On position but then goes away.
So, a few questions:
Is it a normal anti theft security feature for the windows to not work, therefore passlock related?
Can you have a passlock problem and not have the security light on continuously or constantly flashing?
I grounded to the cross member inches away from where I was welding but I only disconnected the positive and not the ground, so even though there was nothing inside the circuit/loop I was creating could it be related to the welding?
Could it be the switch or passlock sensor?
Tomorrow I’m going to take the ignition switch out and see if I can clean it up or maybe I’ll just throw some money at a new one. I will disconnect the battery and do the relearn after. If that doesn’t work then I’ll buy a new cylinder housing that has a the passlock sensor in it and see if i in can swap those sensors out of the housings so I don’t have to remove the steering wheel. Does anyone know if you can do that? I also read that you can just solder the lines into the sensor because the male plug can also go bad?
I’m at a loss here and would deeply appreciate any advice or experience anyone can give. God bless forums.
