Gunndy Gaming

If trying to decide between the Borla options....this is one of the best videos I've seen. They could have done a little bit better capturing the exhaust noise and eliminating the tire/road noise; but at least they are all recorded the same way, so you get a good comparison. I'm still debating myself between the touring and s-type. The touring sound from this video sounds quieter than the official borla video above. And it's barely audible from interior cab as well. Just shows how widely different youtube videos sound based upon the device used to record them. Makes it REALLY hard to make a decision unless you get lucky enough to hear them both in person beforehand.

I don't have auto-dimming mirror. Didn't take the mirror cover off to see if the wiring and everything is still there that I could have tapped into anyway. If I run into any issues or end up needing to re-wire anything down the road I'll keep that in mind. On a side note, trying to figure out how I'm going to mount the rear camera. Have the sliding rear window, so can't mount it to the window itself. Trying to find a bracket or something else that might allow me to mount the rear cam to that I could then mount to the trim above the rear window. There is also a tie town point (I assume for child seat) behind the middle head rest that sticks up slightly that I could use, but I would have to imagine that a rear camera will work better mounted at the top of the window than at the bottom.

For anyone else looking for this data, apparently all of the fuses in the driver side fuse panel are always powered. In order to wire the radar detector I had to run the wire across the headliner, down the driver side A pillar. Mounted the ground wire behind driver side kick plate and then had to use 18 ga wire to extend the load wire under the dashboard all the way over to the passenger side fuse panel. Used F20 for seat ventiliation/cooling. So if you have the option to mount the detector below or to the right of the mirror to hide the wires along the passenger side roof and A pillar, it will be much easier. Waiting on the hardwire kit for the Vantrue N4 to show up...but F3 (Universal Garage Door) will be the fuse I use for it. Was able to find multiple videos to help find what fuse they were using.

Planning on hard wiring my radar detector and dash cam tomorrow. Figured I would ask quickly on here to see if anyone had done so to interior fuse boxes with add-a-fuse already. Hoping to hard wire radar detector in driver side box and cam in passenger. Radar detector on with ignition and cam always on. Anyone know off the top of their head which fuses would work? Again, figured I'd ask and maybe save some time having to break out Fluke or circuit tester. I think I saw a video on the Ventrue N4 hardwired to a 2020 Silverado, so I may try and find that again as well. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD.

Lasfit has bulbs to replace all of the non-LED bulbs Chevy decided to use on 2019+ models: 2019-2021 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LED Bulbs｜Lasfit Simple plug and play operation, and SUPER bright.

Every video I've seen of the Corsa vs Borla exhaust I haven't like the Corsa exhaust note. The Borla seems to have a lower tone (around a C1) vs what it seems the Corsa puts out (seems closer to a E1 or F1).

Great. Thanks!!!

Anyone have a 2019+ Silverado 1500 with a ConsoleVault or other console safe installed that can tell me how much space is between the top of the safe's closed lid and the top of top of the console? From what I've seen in video's it appears you can still re-install the side file folder hangers but interested to know just how much space there still is. I am interested to see if any of the existing trays can still be used over top the safe or if I may have to 3d print my own that isn't as deep. Always like keeping a change bowl handy for easy access.

Any 2021 Silverado 1500 parts should work on a 2022 LTD model without issue. The 2022 LTD is the same truck as the 2021 models, they have just extended manufacturing until they were ready to start rolling the new 2022 refresh out this Spring.

Didn't mean to sound hostile at all, but to be honest it was your post that seemed a little overboard. It had the feeling of "if you can't handle a little noise, just stick with quiet stock setup" when I was pretty clear that I was looking to add growl without going overboard. So I apologize if my reply was a little salty. I have 3" straight pipes with 3" headers and high flow cats on my camaro, so I am not opposed to being loud; but that's also my track car that I only drive on the road for fun. Not something I would want to drive on vacation or as a daily driver. Maybe we both could have phased things differently to be a little clearer in our responses.

I clearly will not be happiest sticking with the stock exhaust since I already stated that I do not like how quiet it is. I am soliciting subjective feedback from people on their thoughts on the difference between the s-type and atak mufflers and how significant a difference there is between them. Various people have provided great links to sound clips I had not found yet and given feedback on how accurate and true to life the videos are to give me perspective. I understand that I'll never know the TRUE sound until I get it installed or am able to witness one personally in real life; but barring that option, I can at least move forward witht he most informed decision possible.

Anyone know/heard the difference between the borla catback with tips vs with factory cutouts? I know that tips can change the exhaust note quite a bit, but not sure if the borla s-type quad tips are long enough to effect things much more than aesthetics. That extra $100 can go towards other mods!!!

Yeah...I'm still waiting on delivery of my truck (a week late now and it's sitting in a lot 50 miles north of me). I keep going back and forth in my head on whether $995 is worth it or not. I'm also fairly sure that the actual "protection" they apply is absolute garbage (no way in heck a quality paint or fabric protection can be properly applied in under 2 hours); but it MIGHT still be worth the 5 year "insurance" side of it for if there are any tears or issues with the interior leather. Always hate the idea of paying for insurance type coverages (paint and fabric defense, extended warranty, etc) as you may never need them; but many times if you do need to use them, they can prove worth every penny.

Thanks, lot of good audio notes/clips there to go by. The more I research I think I may just go ahead and get the full cat back system. Seems to be almost whisper quiet below 2k rpms and at highway cruising. Only seems to draw attention when you want it to. Now just gotta choose between the stype or the atak.

Unfortunately, there are no aftermarket tail-light replacements that do not use the red plastic housing for tail and brake lights (that I know of). If you can manage to find any that are all clear, then bulb replacements could be used for the colors; but there are none that I have seen available for 2019+ GM trucks.

Understood. Unfortunately its the nature of society in general now days more or less. Just looking to hang out and do some cruise ins and hopefully see some mods people are doing to get more ideas. I deal with people every day for a living, so I've gotten pretty good at listening and ignoring at the same time.

Anyone know of any local truck clubs in the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky area? I used to be part of an f-body club in the area when I had my Camaro and enjoyed some of the meet ups. Found it a really good place to see/hear some of the aftermarket mods before deciding what options I wanted to make.

It's twice as funny when you think about it because it would cost 10x as much to have the functionality added compared to the credit they provide for it not being there.

Also glad to know about this. Convinced me even more that I want to cover the "wood" look with carbon fiber wrap. Had the fake wood look in my 2014 LTZ....but just doesn't seem to feel right in a Midnight Edition TB.

I know this is an older thread, but I have the original Redline single row bar currently and am planning on installing that on my 2022 when it comes in (hopefully in the next week). I know that the single row is measured at 1/2" and triple row is 3/4" height. So I am going to be trying to mount the included clips so I can re-use the same holes it creates for the new triple row light if I decide to upgrade in the future. Is there anyone that might be able to provide a precise measurement of how high above the two rolled cutouts on 2019+ Silverado the top of the bar can sit before interfering with the tailgate. I know it's a pretty tall ask; but I've been surprised with the level of detail some have been able to provide on these forums before; and when even a 1/8" can make a difference I figured it was worth asking.

Thanks. This was my primary concern is if the WeatherTech's fit snugly in the channel and didn't allow for slight (1/16" or even less) movement, which allows them to rattle in the window if jiggled by hand. I know on my 2014, there is enough play in the fitment to allow it. Never really resulted in much, if any rattle in day-to-day operation or wind buffeting; but was definitely enough to be annoying when paying a premium price over other options.

Trying to decide on if I want to go with the WeatherTech or AVS window reflectors for my new truck. I have a set of WeatherTech in-channel windows deflectors on my current 2014 Silverado 1500, but since they are not taped in, they have a slight "rattle" to them when the window is rolled down, as they are just a pressure fit into the channel which allows a slight amount of movement in the channel. I know the AVS deflectors have 3m tape that adheres them to the window channel more securely. I prefer the look of the WeatherTech a little more, as the extend all the way down the front edge of the window opening and just look more "factory" to me. Can anyone with the WeatherTech's on a 2019 or newer Silverado/Denali tell me if they now fit the window any tighter than back in 2014? Or is there still slight movement allowing them to rattle slightly within the window channels?

Thanks, I am getting the 6.2l as well (just heard from the dealership that the delivery date has been changed to "TBD" instead of today, as originally listed). My gut is telling me to go with just the muffler/flap replacement for now and see how it sounds. It should be pretty easy for any shop to remove the resonators later if I think it's too quiet. The only reason I'm thinking about the S-Type is that the labor cost of getting a shop to install the crate muffler, with the welding and everything may cover a lot of the added cost for the full cat-back system, which is an at-home bolt on solution.

Currently trying to decide between getting the full Borla S-Type Cat-back exhaust or just getting the Borla ATAK muffler to replace the OEM flapper and muffler while leaving the resonators. YouTube videos just usually don't do it justice, even when playing them back on high end home stereo to try and get a true feel. They can generally give you good representation of the exhaust tone; but not the true loudness as every phone/device microphone is different. I know there are a lot of people who have the S-Type Cat back full exhaust installed, but every video I see seems to make me feel different about how loud this is in general. I'm looking for a pretty aggressive start-up growl, but want it to settle down to a low "purr" at idle and cruising speeds. I really only want the throaty growl at start up and on any aggressive launch or highway acceleration. I still want to be able to stand at the tailgate of my truck and carry on a casual conversation while my truck may be idling and/or warming up. Anyone heard the full s-type vs atak crate muffler in person? It seems like the factory resonators do a really good job of quieting the idle/cruising volume while still allowing the loudness to come through when you give it some right foot.

Currently trying to decide between getting the full Borla S-Type Cat-back exhaust or just getting the Borla ATAK muffler to replace the OEM flapper and muffler while leaving the resonators. YouTube videos just usually don't do it justice, even when playing them back on high end home stereo to try and get a true feel. They can generally give you good representation of the exhaust tone; but not the true loudness as every phone/device microphone is different. I know there are a lot of people who have the S-Type Cat back full exhaust installed, but every video I see seems to make me feel different about how loud this is in general. I'm looking for a pretty aggressive start-up growl, but want it to settle down to a low "purr" at idle and cruising speeds. I really only want the throaty growl at start up and on any aggressive launch or highway acceleration. I still want to be able to stand at the tailgate of my truck and carry on a casual conversation while my truck may be idling and/or warming up. Anyone heard the full s-type vs atak crate muffler in person? It seems like the factory resonators do a really good job of quieting the idle/cruising volume while still allowing the loudness to come through when you give it some right foot.