J Whisenant

Ok so I think I have this solved. I replaced the main under hood fuse / relay box with a new one yesterday and checked for voltage at the trailer right turn signal fuse and I had no voltage whereas before I had power at that fuse all the time, even when the truck was not running. Hope this helps someone. The part was only a couple hundred and came with all relays and fuses. Just make sure you order from a place that requires you to provide them with the VIN. Number.

I am still working on this and have been in touch with a couple of mechanics that believe my problem is coming from a bad circuit board that is under the main under hood fuse box. So I have been looking for a place to buy one and I am not having much luck. Does anyone on here have a source for one? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the advice.

Hey new guy here. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0 gas engine with 130000 miles. It does have the integrated trailer tow package on it. A few weeks back I had a car trailer connected to the truck and noticed the right trailer turn/taillight was on without the truck on or headlights on and no key in the ignition. My first thought was bad trailer wiring. So I disconnected the trailer and using a test light at the seven-way trailer plug, found that I had power on the right trailer turn/taillight pin on the truck trailer socket. Next, I took the plug apart from the back and tested the USCAR plug from the truck to the trailer socket and it had power on the right trailer turn/taillight pin. I then went to the fuse box under the hood on the driver side and located the number 17 fuse witch is the right trailer turn/taillight fuse and it had power on both sides. So I pulled the fuse and the power at the rear bumper was gone. The truck sat in the yard all night and the next day until I got home from work when I tried to start it and the battery was dead. I jumped it off and it ran fine. So then, I went to one of the auto parts stores and had the alternator and battery checked. Both were good, the battery was weak but I live only two blocks from the parts store so it probably did not have enough time to charge. The battery was about three years old so I went ahead and replaced it just to be on the safe side. I needed the truck to tow a vehicle out of state so to make the trip we disconnected the negative cable on the battery when we stopped and the truck ran fine. Since then I have checked every plug that is at the back bumper, the trailer brake module, the trailer relay in the fuse boxes. This weekend using a voltmeter I pulled every relay and fuse one at a time in all fuse boxes and the only time I made a difference in the meter and the test light was when I disconnected one of the power cables coming directly off the battery. One thing that I did notice was, at one point I had 12.60 volts at the back of the truck in the trailer plug. Now I have 3.56 volts and the voltage at fuse 17 has dropped to match the trailer plug. Also, I noticed that before when I disconnected the battery the test light on the fuse would simply go out instantly now it fades out as if it is getting its power from a Retained Accessory Power source. So if any of you have any ideas please chime in. Oh and I have spent lord only knows how many hours digging and looking for an answer on the net but sometimes it takes a fresh set of eyes. Thanks.