2020RSTBorla

Thanks. Borla catback touring exhaust. https://www.americantrucks.com/borla-silverado1500-touring-dual-exhaust-system-chrome-tips-rear-exit-140780.html

Finally was able to get some new wheels and tires. I need to do something with the side steps. I like them, but I have to figure out how to repaint them or get them powder coated. They are 3.5 years old and getting some rust spots. Also need to do paint correction, clay bar, compound/polish and ceramic coat. She will really shine then. Not even waxed in these pics.

No lights above license the plate. That's my stupid camera. lol.

This is the best pic I can get. It does not even come close to what it looks like in real life. It looks a million times better in real life.

I'll get some tonight.

Set 7-Color 48-SMD Scanning LED 22" Knight Rider Strip Light Turn Signal Car Truck Interior Lighting Decoration Compatible with Chevrolet Ford Toyota GMC Dodge Jeep Honda Nissan Lexus https://a.co/d/f7UnIFw The AVS led is just a standard size led strip you tape in. AVS just used a custom led layout. You could just swap it with another waterproof led strip like the Knight Rider one.

Ya, it was a lot of work and a few hundred when all said and done. Yours turned out great!!

That looks really good bro!! I love it!!

Looks great!!! I did the AVS Lightshield on my Chevy.

So I dressed up the wires. Here are some pics. I ran the sheathing all the way through the hood.

You could use small diameter black cable sleeve over the wire as it runs through the hood, down to the harness it is zip tied to and also to clean up the last bit of wire. I will probably do this and if I do I will post pics. It's not like people are going to be constantly under your hood and the finished product, although ALOT of work, looks awesome in my opinion and really sets my truck apart. I also finished the paint job by wet sanding 2000, 3000, 5000, polish and wax. It's kinda hard to tell in the pics, but it matches perfectly. I just bought this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW86XV6/ref=twister_B07FW38SF8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here are the pics of the wiring. I could obviously dress this up more and make it look better; which I may very well do, but it functions perfectly. Looks like I will also need to redo that foam tape covering the wire as it comes around the hood.

It's actually not bad. I snaked them through the hood so they come out toward the bottom passenger side by the battery/fuse box. I used a spade connecter and pulled ground from the battery negative terminal. I used a micro2 fuse tap and pulled power from fuse #42. It will turn on when the fog lights are on or when the headlights are on. I drilled a single small hole in the fuse cover for the positive to exit from. I'll take some pics. I was concerned also, but think it turned out fine and looks pretty clean.

I finally finished sanding, painting and installing my AVS Lightshield. I think it turned out pretty good considering I made a makeshift paint booth in my driveway and used all rattle can stuff. I also used an LED dimmer to tone down the brightness a bit. I just used 3M double sided tape and taped it to the plastic battery cover after I cleaned and prepped it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R7H52B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'm not sure. Probably the easiest thing would be to call Borla. They have great customer service.

I recently added the Pulsar LT. I was getting a mild shudder in certain situations and it was concerning. Since turning off DFM it has completely disappeared and imo the shifting is much improved. I have the throttle sensitivity set to 3 and I love it! It took a few days to get used to the new throttle response. Like when you drive a car that has a sensitive brake pedal and you are used to a more mushy brake pedal. Turning off Auto start/stop is also a great thing. Still getting used to not having to turn it off. This thread is about DFM, but I love the Pulsar LT and I love not having DFM on anymore. It is very noticeable, at least to me. I have a Borla Touring cat back exhaust with S&B cai.

What about this? https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Electromagnetic-Indicator-Socket-YJ2N-LY/dp/B098DTXQSH/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=6+volt+relay&qid=1660569750&sr=8-9 If you are worried about the extra 1.5v on the coil you could use a step down like this: https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Adjustable-Electronic-Stabilizer/dp/B06XRN7NFQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=10EDGCIRFUYNZ&keywords=dc+step+down+buck+converter&qid=1660569931&sprefix=dc+step+down%2Caps%2C75&sr=8-6 The coil side is low amp draw (150-200mah I believe) so you shouldn't have any heat issues with the step down dropping it 1.5v (7.5v to 6v). The step down can handle up to 2A stock and 3A w/heatsink. You can get some clear heat shrink and heat shrink the step down. You can test it on the bench. Just hook the coil side up with step down and power it with 5 batteries (5x1.5v=7.5v) and test to make sure the coil engages and also check the heat of the step down after a few minutes. You would adjust the step down by hooking it up to your pin 13 and using a multimeter on the output to read the voltage as you turn the adjustment screw. You could also adjust the voltage on the bench, but I would double check it when installed in your truck This is where I would start if I was doing this project.

Is 7.5v enough to trigger a 12v relay coil? Does anyone know what the X1 pin 23 is putting out for voltage?

a couple pics of the relay and L-C filter.

So, for anyone trying to install the OPT7 Aura Pro interior light kit and have it work like you would expect it to correctly, it is very easy. Parts: 1 x DPDT relay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P9ICN8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 1 x L-C filter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFJVC5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or the one I used https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/rmrc-lc-power-filter-1-7a 1 x four pack of micro2 fuse taps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV4LY54?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I tapped into the passenger side fuse box F-22 and F-46 for IGN and BATT power. I used the ground lug behind the driver side kick panel. I tapped into BCM connector X1 pin 23 for the dome light trigger. I mounted the L-C filter to the relay and mounted those to the top of the HVAC duct under the driver side dash. I mounted the OPT7 box to the metal C-rail under the drivers side dash to the right. It's a big silver C channel. I used the DPDT schematic in this thread. I will post further details in a little bit. I know a lot of this has been covered in different threads, but wanted to put a fully functioning diagram and some detail out there for anyone else who might be looking to do this. It took me a bit to figure out all I needed to do was use an actual L-C filter vs the non-working solution (in my case) of just a capacitor and diode.

It works!!!! I'll post details tomorrow.

I bet my basic diode/capacitor filter is not enough. I ordered the filter you used and I also have a couple different high quality L-C filters for my FPV RC cameras. Thanks for the help! I am going to try one of my L-C filters when I get home from work and I will report back.

Thank you for the reply! So is your fade into the relays working with that filter? Do your dome lights flash once or twice before they stay on when you open the door? I think I'm with you on the 2 relays. If you did what I think, I may have done the same thing. 2 SPDT relays used together to make a DPDT relay. Both relays have the coils in parallel, so the trigger is the same, and then on the load side each set of your lights goes to an on of the 2 relays.