SteveP45

Excellent point by swathdiver. If the person doing the alignment cannot give you a before and after printout, then go to another GM dealer because the alignment equipment at the dealer you are going to is out of whack or the person running it is. Keep the lemon law in mind..... you might have to resort to it if GM does not step up and intervene and get this resolved.

Keep taking it back to the dealer and insist the entire truck be replaced via the “lemon” law.

Not a surprise since you did not purchase it from there. I am fortunate enough to have 4 dealerships near me, but I purchased my vehicle from the one which was the farthest away (35 minute drive) because they have the best deal. Do did not indicate whether you talked with a sales person though. If they think you are a prospective customer, they may still get a used car for you to drive. Talking to the service people for a loaner will get you nowhere.

If this is the dealership which sold you the vehicle, talk to the salesperson who sold it to you. Ask them for a free loaner to use. If they have 1/2 a brain, you will have a free used loaner within minutes. If the sales person does not do this, politely let them know you will go someplace else for your next vehicle (new or used) and you will let everyone you know why.

Go into settings and enable it again. Could be an update turned it off or reset it to default settings which I think is off.

I had false service parking brake and service esc mil. It took 2 months and 3 visits before the real cause was diagnosed and resolved. it turned out to be a faulty hood latch which was not generating or storing any codes. Got an occasional service 4wd mil. another symptom being able to remote start via my oem keypad was erratic and it would set off the anti theft. Again nothing was generating or storing codes. only once did a hood open mil come on. since my 2019 Z71 was out of warranty I had to pay for the new hood latch. get it documented at the dealer before your vehicle is out of warranty If they cannot immediately diagnose and repair. My dealership finally fessed up they had replaced hood latches for other owners.

Do you have a heavy foot? My 2019 has a little over 54K miles on it. When I fill my tank, I am getting an estimated 457 mile range to empty. Normally get 18 to 21+ mpg in daily driving. The best mileage it calculated and it was on Interstate highway with a tail wind was 29.1.... before that it was 26 mpg. When towing a double axle trailer loaded down with several pallets of wood and 3 passengers besides myself, the mileage is 15 mpg even on interstate. Let the transmission shift and do the work to get you up to speed. Sweet spot for excellent mileage on the 5.3 is under 2,000 rpm... really it is at about 1,500 to 1,800 rpm. The terrain you drive has a lot to do with it. I use only full synthetic oil (0w-20) and full synthetic oil filter and I am always on top of changing the oil & filter before it needs to be done. Do not wait for the oil life monitor to tell you to change it.

Thanks for taking the time to post. I will add it to the list of things to cross off if I have a similar no start with my 2019 crew cab Z71 LT. I spent several months and 3 trips to the dealer trying to find a problem which would not allow a remote start via an oem key fob and would set off the anti theft alarm. No codes stored or generated. Turned out to be a defective hood latch switch which the system thought was open, but was not, yet a code reader showed as being closed, but the vehicle computer was not sensing the resistance it needed to get to allow the vehicle to start. It thought someone was trying to steal the vehicle. thanks again for posting.

For a few hundred dollars you could purchase an inline tuner to disable dfm, no disassembly or rebuild required.

I wait for the full synthetic oil to go on sale at Menards and I stock up. Right now it is on sale for $19 (5 qt jug). They also have the 15% bag sale on which brings it down to $16 for the jug. It is normally Quaker State Full Synthetic which is on sale and my Z71 takes 8 qts. I will stock up with 0w20, for my Z71, 5w30 for my wife's vehicle and 10w30 for all my other machines (Generac Whole House 16kw automatic backup generator, Kubota diesel tractor, Bad Boy mower, garden tiller, cultivator and log splitter). The twin hydraulic drive pumps on the Bad Boy Mower requires 2 qts of 20w50 racing oil or motorcycle oil for each side, but you never find it on sale. I try and look for full synthetic 20w50 with extra zinc in it. However it is getting hard to find. All this is full synthetic because I am not going to skimp on taking care of what I paid good money for

50k on my 5.3 2019 Silverado Z71. No oil leaks. I have used nothing but full synthetic 0w20 oil and quality oil filters made in the USA. I change my own oil and filter when weather permits. But when it needs to be changed in winter I have the dealer change it.

SteveP45 is me. I think GM Customer Service messed up and thought I was the one who posted the problem with the brake pad monitor. They had requested the same info for one of my problems a few weeks ago. It may be an AI (Artificial Intelligence) BOT searching the forums for customer problems and then generating the post to you You should respond to the indicated email address via your email client, but change SteveP45 to your GMTrucks forum user name of Cabin Fever and supply them with the information they requested. It is GM Customer Service who is reaching out. It may take them a day to respond. I know it is legit because they reached out to me when I posted a problem with my 2019 Silverado Z71. I was getting false service parking brake and false service ESC and a other false gremlin malfunction indicator lamps (MIL) on my dash. Also my OEM key fobs would not remote start the vehicle and would set off the anti theft when I tried to remote start via the key fob. The problem was difficult because no codes were being generated or stored. It took 3 trips to my preferred dealer, but the problem finally got resolved when they determined the hood latch was faulty and needed to be replaced. Even though the vehicle was not quite 3 years old, it was out of warranty (it had slightly over 50k) so I had to pay for the faulty hood latch. Hope this helps clear the confusion

I meant coolant, not water

is the thermostat stuck and not allowing the hot coolant to flow through the heater core?

I probably should have gone into more detail. As far as brake pads and rotors go, I tell tell them I want to see them while they are still mounted on the vehicle. A good mechanic/technician will have no problem showing the customer the rotor and pads which are visible as soon as the tire is removed. A great mechanic/technician will also have the new part, be it the brake pad, the brake caliper and or rotor there to show the customer the difference between their old “bad” part and the new replacement part(s). The best and worst advertisement any business can have is word of mouth and good and reputable businesses realize it. The dealership I utilize is very customer oriented. They do not want you to leave unless you can essentially rate them 10 out of 10 (10 being the best). It took them several service visits to resolve my most recent problem and they did not want to throw parts at it and hope it fixed the problem. So I was not charged the diagnostic fee until they were sure they identified the cause. They have several levels of technicians… those which do the oil and fluid changes and tire rotations and the more experienced and highly trained ones which need to diagnose a problem and ascertain a remedy. The higher level staff are usually booked up a week or two out, whereas you can get an oil change or a tire rotation done on a days’ notice. Also if you suspect the mechanic/technician is on commission basis, find another dealer or service shop. The key is the customer rep which books the appointment and checks your vehicle in when you arrive. It is not their business to diagnose over the phone or even in person. They need to leave the diagnostics to the techs.

Something does not sound right. I would be shocked as well. It is the front wheel rotors and brake pads which normally incur the majority of the load and wear. Who knows though, maybe a software engineer has tinkered with the braking system software to apply more to the rear tires now. My 2019 Silverado Crew Cab Z71 just turned 50K and it still has the original brake pads and the oem Goodyear wrangler tires. My brake pad life still shows well over 50% life remaining. Actually it is at 60% for the front and 75% for the rear. I scroll through the screens each time I refuel to reset the trip odometers and to check the transmission fluid temp, etc. My Chevy dealership has been great as far as the service goes. They do the multipoint inspection whenever I have them do an oil change and or tire rotation and never once have they even tried to sell me a brake job. I asked them to check the alignment once and do an alignment if it needed and they said the alignment was fine and it did not need one. However, I will wait at the dealership while it is being serviced and have no hesitation to ask them to show me if something needs to be done or replaced and I also like to see the old parts they replaced. This should be true for any repair shop be it a dealer or 3rd party service. They should allow the customer to interface with the service technicians doing the repair, not just the service rep which makes the appointment and checks in your vehicle and gives it back to you when it is done. Not all GM or Chevrolet dealers are the same. You might want to seek out another dealership. The one I use is 35 minutes away each direction in another town and county because I refuse to do business with the Chevrolet dealer only 15 minutes from me. Changing air filters and cabin air filters is about the only thing a customer can do on their own now (as well as filling the windshield washer fluid). If the weather is nice in the Spring, Summer or Fall, I may do a few of oil and oil filter changes myself... just for the satisfaction of being able to do it as long as I am able to do so.

Low vehicle battery charge? Will it affect/disable remote start. Have a 2019 Silverado Z71. Key fob batteries are brand new. Dealership telling me the hood latch may be defective. I have a hard time believing it would be bad in 3 years. I have code reader and no codes stored to prevent a remote start. When I open and close the hood with the code reader hooked up it immediately reports the correct status of open or closed. Noticed when remote start does not work and I put the code reader on it and it showed the battery at 40%. Put optima 400 digital charger on the battery and after the charge and conditioning cycle, the remote start may work twice. Alternator is charging fine. plan to replace the oem agm battery on Monday Update 12-13-2022 The battery was just load tested by an large independent battery manufacturer on 12/13/22 while i watched and they said the battery tested like a new battery. My concern was the battery may not have been holding a charge even though you could manually start the vehicle just fine. The reason I did this was something I found in researching the remote start failure which indicated if the vehicle battery was below a certain charge %, remote start would be disabled. Update 12-15-2022 Took vehicle in for 3rd visit. On the 2nd (previous) visit I mentioned to the service tech on 1 occasion I had encountered a brief "hood open" message when manually starting the vehicle but it quickly disappeared. He was able to recreate the quick false hood open message and even though no codes were generated or stored, determined the hood latch was flakey and needed to be replaced so they ordered one and I went back for a 3rd visit a week later to get the hood latch replaced. I also had them do an oil and filter change since the weather here is too brutal to do it outside. It appears the new hood latch has resolved the problem so far and was the old latch was the electronic gremlin cause to all of the other false messages I have encountered. The dealership said they have encountered a handful of faulty hood latches. GM/Chevrolet need to examine and redesign the hood latch or switch to a better manufacturer of the part. It is bad when the original hood latch which just turned 3 years old on December 6, 2022 failed. I doubt the hood has been opened and closed more than 36 times in the 3 years (to change oil or to /check oil and other fluid levels at approximately once a month. The truck just turned 50k and still has the original oem agm battery and the original oem Goodyear Wrangler tires. I intend to get new tires within the next month. In any event, will give an update in a few weeks. P.S. Posters on this forum tend to run down "dealerships" and their service and prices, Go find another dealer then. There is a Chevrolet dealer much closer too me, which I absolutely refuse to deal with or even visit. So I purchased this vehicle new in another town and county which is a 35 minute drive for me each way. The dealer I originally purchased this vehicle from has been fantastic. They never charged me a dime for the previous two diagnostic visits because they could not fix the problem. Their tire rotation fee (if you do not have a coupon for a free one) is lower than most other places. It is why my tires are in good shape at 50K. They are focused on customer satisfaction. They do not want you to leave from your service visit unless you can rate them essentially 10 out of 10 (i.e. extremely satisfied). They did not have a problem or objection when I asked if I could walk back and discuss the problem with the service technician. In fact it was one of these discussions which led the technician to suspect the hood latch as the gremlin/culprit. Due to lack of generated or stored codes, it was the only real source of information for him. They also gave me the old defective hood latch as I requested. I will do some testing on it this winter when I get time.

Service ESC and Service Parking Brakes lights sporadically appear after engine start and POST. Remote start on key fob no longer will start the engine. The engine will initially crank and start and then stop and then the oem anti theft starts flashing lights and honking horn. Took into Chevy dealer and the same thing happens. The tech was baffled as no codes generated or stored. It is back at the dealer today because their 30 year veteran of all electronic problems was not available a few weeks ago. the vehicle manually starts and drives fine. I am not experiencing the CEL or rough limp mode operation described in other posts. I purchased the vehicle new in 2019 and it has a little over 49k miles on the odometer. I already checked, loosened and retightened the 4 mounting bolts on the engine under hood fuse block anyone else experiencing this? Update 11-28-2022. Chevy dealership tech said only codes stored was for a key fob low battery and a trailer connection fault. Cleared codes. He said it started just fine with the remote I had given them. So he demonstrated to prove it and it worked. We tried the remote I always use and had kept with me and it would not remote start. It would only lock or lock doors, but it did not set off the alarm. there was no charge for the service visit. After a 35 minute drive home I put a new energizer cr2032 into my remote I always use which supposed had a low battery. I locked the doors and pressed the start button. After 1 crank and the lights flashing, the oem anti theft alarm went off. called the Chevy dealer service rep and he said he would discuss with the tech and possibly call GM service support for any ideas they might have. Update 12-15-2022 Took vehicle in for 3rd visit. On the 2nd (previous) visit I mentioned to the service tech on 1 occasion I had encountered a brief "hood open" message when manually starting the vehicle but it quickly disappeared. He was able to recreate the quick false hood open message and even though no codes were generated or stored, determined the hood latch was flakey and needed to be replaced so they ordered one and I went back for a 3rd visit a week later to get the hood latch replaced and also had them do an oil and filter change since the weather here is too brutal to do it outside. It appears the new hood latch has resolved the problem so far and was the old latch was the electronic gremlin cause to all of the other false messages I have encountered. The dealership said they have encountered a handful of faulty hood latches. GM/Chevrolet need to examine and redesign the hood latch or switch to a better manufacturer of the part. It is bad when the original hood latch which just turned 3 years old on December 6, 2022 failed. I doubt the hood has been opened and closed more than 36 times in the 3 years (to change oil or to /check oil and other fluid levels at approximately once a month. The truck just turned 50k and still has the original oem agm battery and the original oem Goodyear Wrangler tires. I intend to get new tires within the next month. The battery was just load tested by an large independent battery manufacturer on 12/13/22 while i watched and they said the battery tested like a new battery. My concern was the battery may not have been holding a charge even though you could manually start the vehicle just fine. The reason I did this was something I found in researching the remote start failure which indicated if the vehicle battery was below a certain charge %, remote start would be disabled. In any event, will give an update in a few weeks. P.S. Posters on this forum tend to run down "dealerships" and their service and prices, Go find another dealer then. There is a Chevrolet dealer much closer too me, which I absolutely refuse to deal with or even visit. So I purchased this vehicle new in another town and county which is a 35 minute drive for me each way. The dealer I originally purchased this vehicle from has been fantastic. They never charged me a dime for the previous two diagnostic visits because they could not fix the problem. Their tire rotation fee (if you do not have a coupon for a free one) is lower than most other places. It is why my tires are in good shape at 50K. They are focused on customer satisfaction. They do not want you to leave from your service visit unless you can rate them essentially 10 out of 10 (i.e. extremely satisfied). They did not have a problem or objection when I asked if I could walk back and discuss the problem with the service technician. In fact it was one of these discussions which led the technician to suspect the hood latch as the gremlin/culprit. Due to lack of generated or stored codes, it was the only real source of information for him. They also gave me the old defective hood latch as I requested. I will do some testing on it this winter when I get time.