Roadblock_70

I love my 2003 Silverado 2500HD LS. I bought it from a neighbor who bought it, it had very low miles and the axle seal was leaking and he went to pieces over that. Truck has a documented total 126,000 miles on it. I had the axle seal replaced, had the A/C system repaired. The truck has the "LS" trim. It has a steering wheel that came from the factory. The truck also had a Sony XAV-AX1000 aftermarket stereo installed. It was supposed to be hooked up so you could retain use of steering controls but I don't have an IPhone. So far as I know, all states prohibit driving and holding your phone or anything like that. I purchased an Alpine iLX-W650 which is supposed to be Android Auto and also I have purchased a PAC RP5 GM11 module that is supposed to allow me to use the steering controls. Here is what I am wondering: 1. Is it possible to reprogram what the buttons do ? Such that I can make hands free cell calls ? I have a 2008 Silverado LT and it has a steering wheel with both hands free and stereo controls. Can that be retrofitted to a 2003 ? Is there any kind of module that I could attach to my steering wheel and it control hands free ? I have that PAC RP5-GM11 but the reprogramming of buttons has not worked out at all. So if anyone has any experience or wisdom, please let me know.

Mine went out at West Point GA just above Valley. I was trying to get on Hwy 29 N to avoid night time construction on I-85 N. The trans light flickered and I had intermittent problems going home, but the trans fluid temp was not way out of line. If you know where Fob James drive is in Valley, that is where the transmission first flashed the D light. I managed to get it home to western NC, I asked around who did good rebuilds on transmissions and I was told that this shop was very competent. I took it to them and the only thing I authorized was a transmission rebuild. They thought they could dick me around, they took both fans from behind the radiator. They have one fan hung from the shroud and it is off an inline 4cyl. They disabled the DOD without asking me. They screwed with the tire size, because the 18" tires on my truck are the factory size exactly so now the speedometer is screwed up. I think that from the PCM, with the kind of software they used to disable DOD, they may have done something with the cooling fan programming. I am going to do a chargeback and fight this.

It was the 6L80E that grenaded at 135,400mi

My truck is a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. It had two electric cooling fans on it. I took it to a shop that was supposed to be competent at rebuilding 6L80Es. A month before I had installed a new water pump, new 160degree thermostat, and coolant temp sensor. The transmission went out at 135,436mi. I was told the transmission was done. I got there and the guy running the shop tried to treat me like an 18yo sorority girl. He claimed he had installed a new radiator, and tried to take credit for installing my water pump, thermostat, and cooling sensor. I called a rollback then, and while I was looking at it, I noticed the twin factory cooling fans were gone and the shop had installed a single fan and it was held in with wire tie. I can remember when I replaced my water pump, there were two electric fans behind the radiator. there is now only one and it is hanging there by a wire tie I got the truck out of there and hauled home ASAP. Is there a set of aftermarket fans that would work as well if not better than the fans that were stolen off of the truck ? Like I could order from Summit ? Or do I need to find a set of factory fans at a dealer someplace ? In addition, I did not request that this shop would delete DOD, but I have found out that they did turn off the DOD/AFM and in addition the speedometer is not reading properly because they screwed with the tire size- the tires on it have always been stock. Is there a chance that this shop could have done something in the ECM/PCM/BCM to screw with the engine coolant system ? Thanks, this has been a nightmare of two weeks which just got worse today when they tried to screw me on the bullshit of the waterpump, thermostat, and I've since found out that they disabled the DOD when I did not ask them to. Pre-2008 I used to use a tech2. What is the comparable tool and software that I can buy to find out all this shop did, and determine what they screwed up ? I know it will cost $2000-$4000 but I will get a lot of use out of it given that I have several GM vehicles.

It seemed as though there was an miss in the engine- as in it was not firing on some cylinders. No codes pulled by my ELM. I have an AFM/DOD shutdown on the truck via OBD2- so as to avoid any further damage to the engine from AFM/DOD In the last 48 hours it has had this behavior where I will be driving and begin uphill, the engine stumbles and it will rev from 1800rpm to 3000rpm or 1600rpm to 3800rpm. Truck is in drive mode, truck has done it on a hill and on perfectly flat land paved road What other information do you need for moving forward ?

Hello all. After the south received an artic freeze my battery was dead and I had to use a jumper box to start it. Everything seemed ok. I drove it to TSC and then I am 9 mi from home. I hear the vehicle info warning dashing noise- and look down. "Engine overheating stop and idle." I realized because temps had been down to 9* in the NC mountains the thermostat might have stuck open or be screwed up. I find a place to pull off and I am letting it idle but it was headed to 260. I cut the engine off. It was still ambient temp of 43* I waited 30 minutes, drove 3 miles and I heard the same warning noise- I got one more mile and pulled off. Let the engine completely cool- yes the fans ran after shutdown both times. Now 5 mi from home, turn on engine, it was cooled off, I drove 3 mi, heard the noise, saw the temp gauge headed 230+ stopped, turned the engine off. I live in an area where there is one towing company, they have a monopoly, they will skull screw you and they will leave vehicles on the side of the highway despite telling you that they will tow you. I called anyway because I could not afford my engine screwed over. I waited 1 hour for them to come and then drove the last 2 or 3 mi home and as I got there the temp began to rise above 230 and I shut it off and coasted it into my driveway. I ordered a new water pump, new thermostat, and I changed them out. Thermostat was stuck, water pump bearing was shot. I completely backflushed and then replaced the coolant. I did an oil change- I do oil changes every 4000 mi, the truck has 136,000 mi I drove 75 mi to Alpharetta, truck was at 210* max heat. Drove 75mi back home. No overheating and no performance problems. I drove yesterday 90 mi one way and I had no problems. It cooled 1hr 30m while I was in an MD appointment. I was down to 1/4 tank gas and I began looking for a station to fill up and my truck felt like there was a miss however there were no codes pulled, I checked with an ELM module. I filled it up with 91 ethanol free and put some seafoam in the tank as I didn't know what was going on and I could not tell if it was a miss or the AFM/DOD or what. It drove ok but I had been getting 17mpg per the fuel use calculator- ever how accurate that is- and it was now reporting 15mpg. It is a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT with a 5.3 V8 and 6L80E, has Z71 package.

I have a 1997 K1500 Cheyenne. It was originally a 305/5spd. My father used the truck and he has severe Parkinson's(wear a respirator and proper attire when spraying pesticides and herbicides- if you don't there WILL BE SEVERE CONSEQUENCES). He got to a point where he could not shift without either grinding a gear or burning up the clutch plate. Finally I decided, I will get a 700R4 and the transfer case that matches it and swap it in. I did. The shifter is a B&M shifter, the lockup is controlled by a B&M lockup controller I dialed in. The truck had a hitch and it was 4wd but did not have a tow package of any discernable nature. While I was off working, my dad had a trailer brake controller installed as he purchased a trailer for me as a gift(it was $1000 for a $5000 trailer, guy needed to hire a lawyer, I paid daddy back even though it was a gift). I had a continual problem with the lock tumbler turning too far- so far as I know it did not have the GM Passkey ignition kill mechanism. The lock turning crap was so bad that eventually I could crank the truck with any GM key. So what I did was replace the ignition key when I got home- had different key for ignition from door, but come We put 20,000 miles on it. Trailered with it. Hauled several cars with it. I had purchased a 1971 Dodge Charger and I got it home. For the first time, someone came 1/2mi off of a paved road and tried to steal the trailer first. Well the chains were locked and the trailer could not be unhitched because it had a MONSTER lock on the trailer. Well, whoever the guy was who tried to steal the truck, must have watched too many movies because he took and undid the trailer brake and tried to use trailer brake wiring to hot wire the truck. In the end the thief took the Hayes-Lemmerz brake controller. I contacted Hayes and they told me that none of the wires should affect anything other than my trailer brake if the truck has a tow package- it does not. Well, I can turn the key and it does nothing- jack doodley squat. Well, I know the trick about the relay to turn over the starter and here is the odd thing: the truck turns over fine with jumping the (starter ?) relay points on the central fuse box. Weirdest of all is that I cannot hear the tank pump come on. I even put 10 gallons of high test in there to make sure I had enough fuel. I read the direction online of jumping relay points, and here is the other odd thing: for me to get the truck to turn over, I have to jumper the relay points opposite the directions online. I may just be perceiving that because of the fact I'm looking down on the fuse box, I am not sure. There is a guy locally who was the go to man for GM vehicle wiring problems. He quit when he turned 58 to try to find a ride in a NASCAR series(he has run in two Pinty's series races and then comes back to WNC looking for a ride in a car that is probably not going to come, but I digress...)- I offered him cash for help and he said "No, I'm a professional driver now. You do know that when your dad the plugs and wires changed, the dealership removed the clutch pedal without asking him, though, right ?" No, no I didn't know that. He went back to trying to scrape together enough money to buy CASCAR/PINTYS parts. Yes, I did offer him $100 per hour to pay him just to come tell me what I should be doing cause that's about dealer pay per my understanding. I had left the clutch pedal in, in case I wanted to install the 5spd for me. I checked and it is indeed gone. I know I also had wired out the neutral safety switch. I don't know what they did. Should I check the neutral safety lockout first ? Should I expect to replace the ignition harness under and apart of the steering column ? With me not hearing the fuel pump on, should I be concerned that I should drop the tank and replace the fuel pump before I do anything else ? Where I am, you cannot find a mechanic who will work on things like this, and I have worked on cars, trucks, tractors, dozers, crawlers all my life. I am not particularly adept with the complexity of wiring. OBD2 pulls a multiple misfire bank 1 and 2 and that's it.