ChevyGMCfan

Hello: yesterday I pushed the button on the tailgate to close it. It went to what I would describe as the "first" latched position and stopped. It isn't completely closed but is latched and won't open or finish closing. When I press the button, I hear a noise from inside the tailgate, but it isn't the sound of the motor trying to pull the tailgate closed, or the click of the latch releasing. Double clicking the tailgate open icon on the remote gives the effect of it trying to work. The owner's manual says: the electric tailgate can be opened if the battery is dead: "contact the dealer". The battery isn't dead. Since it has power, I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this problem. This is my 14th GM truck but first with the electric tailgate. As a retired automotive tech, I'd like to fix it myself if possible. I have looked down from the top of the tailgate edges to see if anything is jammed in latches. I have removed the inner access cover and found the latch release pins. When I double click the fob, they rotate. I have attached cable ties (see photo) to these and pulled both of them at the same time, no success. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks, JC

Thanks, guys. This confirms my thoughts.

Hello: the cooling fan came on this morning with a cold engine, and the temp gauge did not indicate any temperature as the truck was driven. The fan stayed on for several minutes after shutdown. I couldn't find a thread related to this. Anyone have any experience with this? 2017 1500 Denali with 5.3, 4WD. Note: my wife's 2017 Acadia Denali V6 did the same thing, I replaced the temp sensor and thermostat, problem solved. Coincidence?

My 19-year-old grandson has front brake problems. We put front brake pads and calipers on at 125k, pads again 30K later, and now he called with a locked up left front wheel. I found the inner pad completely gone, the outer pad mostly worn, and the caliper pistons scarred badly from pushing on the rotor. The right front pads were only half worn. Evidently it's had the problem for a while but with loud exhaust and radio, he didn't notice anything. He did say the ABS light comes on sometimes but goes off by itself. We replaced the pads, rotors, calipers, brake hoses, and ABS sensors. The brakes work okay with one exception: when slowing down to a stop, the ABS sounds like it comes on every time at 10 MPH, every time. Not at any other speed. No codes in system. I pulled the ABS fuse out to disable the system; no more ABS at 10 mph but now the truck pulls to the left under braking. It doesn't pull with the ABS fuse in place. That makes me think the problem has been there for quite some time. What am I missing here? Wheel bearings don't feel loose. My last seven GM trucks (since 1995) have not given me anything like this, even at 200k miles, but I have been driving HD trucks since 1999. As a former ASE tech, I'm puzzled. I stopped doing mechanical work 20 years ago except service on our vehicles. So, I don't have access to the latest tech info, but I know how the brakes and ABS work. Could a cracked tone ring or reluctor be a problem? That shouldn't have an effect when the ABS fuse is out. Could the ABS modulator cause this? Why does it pull without ABS but not with it? Is the ABS system masking or hiding the problem?