BraydenH

Absolutely. I watched one clip of a guy who cut a cooler in half to show how difficult it is to get them flushed completely clean due to how they’re made. Enjoying your 4l60e vid so far btw

I couldn’t agree more but I don’t make it too easy on myself either with my 35’s on the ol girl lol. I think I’m gunna drain the trans fluid and then take it to trans shop to have system flushed super good then do swap and reconnect lines and fill and back to trans shop for reprogramming

Is it an option to take out all components of the trans cooling system to have a shop flush it all out with one of their continuously circulating setups or do you think a guy should be alright with enough flushes with compressor and cans and stuff?

Good point. I replaced my wheel bearings and rear dif carrier bearings a few months ago and called dealership for shim kit for rear dif and they wanted 150$ and was the only place in town that had it on stock which is wild because I live in Fargo and it’s not a small city and I called EVERYWHERE but yea dealership isn’t cheap at all and I know it but again great advice and I will absolutely source a decent transmission shop here in town and talk with them first

Super solid words and ty for pointers. I’ve always been good at reverse engineering and figuring things out so I think I’m still gunna go at the trans swap myself but you’ve swayed me to not open up the reman to swap the tcm. I’ve watched literally 20 or more clips on remove and install trans and 50 or more on rebuild the 6l80 over the past couple weeks while I shopped around for a decent deal not knowing if I was going with rebuild or reman or a used unit. I’ll just have to tow or trailer it to dealership after the install for programming. I called them a week ago or so to see what it’s cost and I think it was 145$ or so and I can live with that. Was literally just watching how to rebuild the techm and replacing the 4 valve body seals on it but with your post I’ll just get reman reprogrammed for sure

Aight. How many cans of trans fluid flush do you think a guy would need to be safe flushing it back and forth a few times

But yea this is why I’m asking here is because I’ve got a bit of experience with vehicles but most of the knowledge I have about this topic is from YouTube which I’ve been goin hard on about these 3rd gen GM’s for a couple weeks now and haven’t ever had to worry about everything being right on point with a job like this that’s a bit more technical then stuff like this was 10-15 years ago so I’m very appreciative of any and all advice/insight that anyone’s willing to share

I couldn’t install an aftermarket cooler with new lines? The only reason why I was thinking that way is because from what vids I’ve seen, even with the fancy big trans fluid flushing machines they say it’s hard to get all metal out of coolers

100% will do the bypass for cooler temps and was thinking of just running new lines to new cooler and install in front of coolant radiator….thoughts? I heard it’s near impossible to get all junk out of trans cooler and don’t see it mounted in front of radiator so I’m guessing it’s built into it?

Damn…aight….any other good news? lol

I’m having a reman 6l80 shipped to my works shop for my 2014 Silverado and going to swap it out myself and wondering if it’s a good idea or not to take the techm out of my current trans and toss it in reman so I don’t have to have reman trans programmed to my truck when I’m done and if I shouldn’t do that, will I be able to drive it about 15 min or so to dealer to get it programmed? Lastly other then rear main seal of engine, what would you guys recommend I swap out or inspect while I have transmission out?

I’ve done a trans swap on an old s10 and another on a 04 Tahoe but that was nearly 10 years ago and they weren’t anything fancy and I know that my 2014 Silverado won’t be much different but here’s my questions, with the reason for my trans swap being a failed torque converter situation that filled my trans with metal and had trans fluid looking more like burnt engine oil then anything, would I still be able to swap the teckm’s so I wouldn’t have to have dealer do a reprogramming on it and if that’s not a good idea then will I be able to drive it 15min or so to the dealership after the swap, also any recommendations on any other things I should do during the swap(like replace engines rear main seal ofc)? Any and all pointers much appreciated

Solid advice. I sure wish I’d have studied up a bit more before buying my 2014 z71 which is now in need of a new trans due to torque converter failure at 170k miles and I never even beat on my truck, I occasionally haul my 24’ work trailer across town or down the highway to the next town over but yea the 3rd gen torque converters and trans are absolutely weak points and at a price of 3-6g just for the trans

I’ve got a 2014 as well with a 3” leveling kit and have it in the shop twice for camber alignment and on 2nd set of tires because it keeps falling out of alignment. It’s such a pain in the ass so I recommend getting this kit

The big aluminum driveshafts are also a common cause of vibrations. They take damage so easily and usually a guy only feels those vibrations at higher speeds and it seems consistent with vibrating while accelerating or downshifting….also it may be a long shot but if someone does some cruddy work on a lift kit or on rear end and maybe somehow messed up pinion angle and that can cause vibrations at high speeds as well

I have to check trans cooler and dash stickers first thing in morning but Yea I bought the truck with an aftermarket trailer brake system installed so doubt I have the max trailering package. I just got off the phone with a reman transmission place that claims it makes no difference on what trans my vin calls for as far as tow package or no tow package, they say it’s same trans which is weird to me because every single other place I’ve priced out a used trans has from has specifically asked for that detail stating they have trans for available for one option but not another. It’s reman-transmission.com and has thousands of reviews and can send a reman for 2600$ shipping included….im skeptical but it’s by far best deal I’ve found so far. Either of these 2 seem like a safe bet to you?

These seem like a solid deal but I’m not even sure the difference between these two

My 2014 Silverado’s tc just ****** the bed right after full front and rear end rebuild and has 172k miles on it. I’ve got a reman trans that can be shipped to my door for 2600$….question is should I spend a few extra hundred bucks or whatever and go for an upgraded tc or stick with the tc that comes with the reman trans(I’ll be happy if I can get another 50k outa truck so not trying to go overboard with spending but only want to fix ****** once if I can)

yea I agree. the more I look into this tc failure of 3rd gen chevys the more obvious it is. What’s the best bang for my buck though, getting new tc and trans rebuilt and surely pump resurfaced, or getting used trans(I’ve found one with 64k for 3600$ or 98k for 3200$) but then risking it happening again, or just getting reman trans. Keeping in mind I can do the trans swap myself so would only have to pay for parts and any reprogramming that may be needed

Yea that’s what I was afraid of. I’ve been pricing out used transmissions at 3600$ for 64k miles and 3200$ for 98k miles but all the research I’ve done since my tc failure has me nervous about getting a used transmission. At the same time I’m trying to figure out what’s going to be the least expensive option to give truck another 50k miles of life or so since it’s already got 175k on it. Would it be more expensive to have trans rebuild and pump machined and have to buy new tc than a used transmission would be? And I’d think that my high mileage rebuild would be better than a lower mileage used right? Also I’m struggling like hell to figure out if truck has tow package or not…I’ve called chev dealership and they said I’d have to bring it to them and all transmission shops and junkyards I’ve asked can’t give me a definitive answer

I’ve got a 2014 Silverado 175k with a shudder that just started a week ago so I flushed fluid and changed filter and added a bottle of shudder fix as well. Oil was burnt and a fair bit of shaving in it. Just bought it 6 months ago and trans has never given any reason to think it’s going out or slipping but I do haul a lot of trailers for work. The shudder is almost completely gone but rpm’s still dance around 50-200rpms or so but you can’t really feel it. I plan to change torque converter within a week or 2 and would rather not have to buy a trans if I don’t have to. Think I’ll be ok with just swap out torque converter or while trans it out would it be smart to swap out valve body or anything simple like that to maybe help trans potentially not fail on me anytime soon? I’d just hate to swap out torque converter and then have trans problems after that which from what I’ve read is a decent possibility. Any advice is much appreciated

I’m no expert by any means but sounds like it may be a torque converter shudder. I’m actually here to try to get advice on my truck doing something like yours is. I don’t have any grinding but the fluctuating rpm’s and on and off kinda thing sounds like mine. If you shift to manual instead of drive and leave the rpm’s slightly higher then they’d normally be or drive in 1 gear lower then the truck automatically would does it go away?