UltimateToolReviews

Correct, I just dug into it futher today and discovered my 22 GMC uses R-134A (check your fan shroud sticker!) and so at idle on a cold start in 95F the compresser will not kick on at all unless you start driving. I found my freon to be definitely low (not getting worse, no leaks found, I assume under filled from factory) and added some and now it cools the vent temps to 60f at idle and 50s at highway speeds in 95f weather with no more warm air at stop lights.

Alright so quick update, I swapped out the ValvoMax bolt for a new Dorman Bolt with the rubber washer/gasket and that did the trick. Also I did an oil change but not the filter, adding the full 8 quarts. The oil level sits right at the top the hatches on the dip stick, almost like GM designed the L8T for fleet use, lol.

Yes

That was a figure of speech...

I went out and checked it out, no clear signs of fresh oil leaking above the drain plug, it's all old oil, probably from when a tech doing the oil change wiped it down with a oil soaked rag or being messy with the filter. No fresh oil there. However you were right, the ValvoMax is leaking at the threads, not dripping but definitely seeping fresh oil. I reached out to them and will probably just change back to a regular bolt now.

Will do, does everything else around there look normal? I am still under power train warranty so any other leaks I want to get taken of care asap.

Doing a test on that, it's the ValvoMax Oil Drain Valve, I don't think it's leaking, I think it's just a drop or 2 of oil from the last oil change running down. But I will keep an eye on it.

Not down half a quart, just showing half way down the dip stick on the cross hatches, still in the green zone and I think that is where it normally is when you change the oil.

I also discovered that whenever the AC goes warm, just hit the AC button off then on and it blows cold the rest of the day. I have done this twice now in over 100f heat.

I've heard of the oil consumption issue with these motors and I check my oil regularly, currently at half way up the cross hatches after checking overnight with a cold engine at 85% left on the oil change, which seems normal to me. Also here is a pic of the underside of my engine, seems like some weeping oil, but I am no expert, what do you guys think? It's looked like that since I bought it.

So I found a work a round, just run the AC in manual mode, it no longer has the delay on start-up doesn't seem cycle on/off at lights now.

What model of phone? I know the older iphones had this issue (the ones that just started to use carplay). When I upgraded to a iphone 15 that issue stopped. I've never seen it be a truck issue, more so a phone issue.

My 22 GMC 2500 gas seems to like to wait 20-40 seconds after starting for the AC to go cold in the morning. Also at stops and rarely low speed the AC will also stop for about 30 seconds or so, fan is still blowing, just not cold air. Never had a truck do this before, 95% of the time the AC works fine, but does seem to struggle a bit like my ram when temps get over 95f out. Should I try a recharge kit? No lights on dash or codes from the scanner.

I feel like your the only answer here that is actually answering the question. Everyone else is lost, lol.

Silly question, but my mechanic made this joke, what's the point of a 3/4 ton when you can option a 1 ton into basically exactly the same truck? Why still make 2500s? Just curious

I run a junk removal biz and also help friends with moving there RVs in RV parks often, it always seems like GM trucks are the rare ones. Ram HDs lead by far at the dump, so many 2500 cummins and F350s. RV parks it's pretty hard to find GM trucks. It maybe different where you live, but I came from a Ram 2500 and now I drive a GMC 2500 and it's a much better truck in my opinion for towing. The ZF trans in the Ram was awesome and that's the only thing I miss in my GMC now. Maybe price? brand reputation? brand loyalty? Not sure For 1/2 tons it's a different story, I see a ton of GM 1/2 tons.

Just curious if we are seeing any high milage examples, been seeing 150-200k+ on Youtube and a few other places. I think the mods (T-stat delete) and keeping up with the transmission fluid service seems to be key. How high of miles have you seen? Sounds like if you didn't get the 10 speed your golden.

Urethane won't flow into the cracks were the water is getting in, if Urethane worked we wouldn't need to be fixing the back windows since that's what's already on there. You need silicone because it has some flex to it and wont crack.

Don't know about the 25s, but if you have a back slider with a plastic frame, it will crack and leak. Not if, but when.

Yeah, so just like my other 4 rams and Tacoma, another truck gets the rear window leak. Seems no brand is safe. Ram and GM are both using these garbage plastic rear window frames that crack super easy. Took about 2 hours to figure out how to remove the rear headliner, back spoiler and light assembly and clean the glass channel and seal it up good. Both GM and Ram want to just replace the entire rear back glass, but it will just crack again and leak again. Super annoying, but if you fix any truck with the rear window leak, you can fix any of them. 2 hours and $17 will fix it for good. Don't pay the dealer thousands to band aid it. One tip, once you apply a few beads of silicone, run a paper towel and create a trough like dip in the channel, than apply one more bead and use a blower to push the sealant in more. It helps really seal up any cracks and also if new cracks appear, they can't leak. I used this video and sealant to fix it (not my video, found on reddit) video I found window sealant used Need at least 2x

Severe Service honestly just means you plan to keep the truck longer than 150K miles. Normal service is just what they use when you lease it. The bare minimum and nothing else.

2022 GMC 2500 6.6 gas and I've put about 1000 miles on it since I bought it (at 44k miles now), the steering feel was IMHO awful and the truck would drift on the road like the steering was way to light, even lighter feeling than my 1/2 ton work truck. No lift or level, factory size tires. First thing I did was install new Wildpeak AT4s and got an alignment. I was 100% expecting to see that I need some parts replaced like the pitman and idler arms because it just felt so off. I was wrong, everything was solid in front end and the alignment was not that far out of spec. The shop I took it to said if I like the solid front axle feel better, to install a steering stabilizer and so I did, huge improvement! I went with the Rough Country N3 (any brand should do the trick) and it made the front end finally feel solid and the truck no longer drifts or pulls side to side. While installing it I inspected the IFS and greased up everything, the grease helped and pretty much every grease point was low on grease, front end was solid. Note that I offroad A LOT! So bump steering is very noticeable to me. If your reading this wondering if you can install a steering stabilizer in your driveway, you can. Took me about an hour with basic tools, very easy to do, didn't even need to jack the truck up. TL:DR Steering feel was light, felt drifty even after new tires and alignment. Installed a steering stabilizer and greased up the IFS grease points that the dealers never do. Fixed, now feels like a HD truck. Hope this helps anyone with the same issue as me.

That's insane to see those parts fail at less than 40k miles! and those dealer prices are wild!

I know the 25MY ram 1500s are still 5th gen, but Ram did a whole new electrical system in those trucks that has been problematic, wonder if it's something like that going on with the 24MY GM HDs as well. It's why I only buy 2-3 year old trucks.

Ford seems pretty hit or miss with the HD gas engines, My last Ram 2500 had zero issues BUT the 6.4 hemi can develop the hemi tick and mine was starting to tick worse and worse at 70k miles, seems like the 6.6 was the most problem free HD gasser out there. My mechanic has told me he only sees them for oil changes and brakes, the other brands he sees for more repairs often. I think the 6.6 is great choice for now. However the new 10 speed is up in the air IMHO, I went with a 2022 with the 6 speed.