bp07

Make sure you put your LCA's on the correct side of the truck. You can install them upside down and they will mount on the opposite side and look like they are correct besides the ball joint facing up instead of down. It's pretty apparent what is going on once you try to install the knuckle. Trust me I know from experience. Once I corrected that the passenger side bolted right up. I did have to compress the spring again and rotate it 180deg on the driver side. After that the tabs lined up. It sounds like the OP did the same thing I did so it can happen and hopefully this saves someone some time or at least some embarrassment in the future.

Appreciate everyone's help and suggestions. I am going to man up on this one and admit my stupidity. I had the lower control arms on the wrong side and obviously upside down. I should have disassembled and then assembled 1 side at a time. Instead I disassembled both side ones night, cleaned up, and then reassembled the next night. It's amazing how closely everything still lines up with the arms on the wrong side. Close enough that I was able to get one side loosely bolted up. As soon as I went to put the knuckle on and saw that the hole for the lower ball joint to fit into was tapered the wrong direction it hit me what I had done. Once I swapped the LCA's the passenger side bolted right up imagine that. On the driver side I did have to compress the spring again and rotate it 180deg. Once I did that the angle of the shock and mounting ears all lined up as well. Have not got the new tires mounted and alignment yet (later this week), but the improvement was definitely noticeable over the worn OE shocks. I did end up getting rid of the 1/2" Rough Country strut spacer and then adjusted the Eibach's up all the way to the 2.5" setting. No rubbing on the Superlift UCA like I had with the OE one with the same tires. Did not need the wheel spacers.

Thanks. Should have time this evening to work on it. I think rotating the driver side shock inside the spring 180deg should put that tab angle in good alignment. On passenger side doesn’t seem like the tabs have much of an angle on it either way. Seems like I might need to rotate the tab on that one a bit. To clarify are you saying that compressing spring and releasing tension will allow the tab to rotate easier as well ?

Hoping to hear the resolution on this. I am having the same issue. I am not 6' 7 but I used all the leverage I could find and could also not rotate the mounting ears in that bushing at all. Pictures below are of the passenger side which is closer to aligned. I think I can probably figure out a way to get these bolts started maybe attached the shock bolts first then jacking up the LCA and man handling it in place. On the driver side though its farther off. Maybe 10-12deg. I asked this same question over on a thread I had started earlier about the parts I was compiling for the front end rebuild. I found this thread after I posted the same question there. suspension-component-replacement-125k-miles

Trying to wrap up this suspension install and ran into a problem. I have researched it and do not see other people having the issue so assuming its something simple I am just missing. The ears on the front shocks do not line up with the holes on the lower control arm. They just need to be turned maybe 15 deg or so. I assumed all along this would be a simple tweak with a long wrench and they would turn and I could line them up. I cannot for the life of me get these to turn. I have put a ton of leverage and pressure on them they won't budge. Assuming I am doing something wrong and don't want to break anything. Googling it AI says everything from Yes the ears can be rotated with significant leverage and force all the way to the shocks are side specific, or you need to rotate the shock in the spring. I just risked life and limb to compress those spring to get these lifted shocks in so I am really hoping I do not need to do that again. Can someone tell me if these ears can be rotated if so how. If not then what do I have assembled incorrectly that would allow these ears to line up. Trying to get this finished ASAP so I can get the tool rental return. Thanks!

Appreciate all the help. This is the direction I am going: Front Shocks - Eibach E60-23-006-03-10 $318 Setting shock to 2" and removing the lower RC strut spacer Rear Shocks - Eibach - E60-23-032-01-01 $298 Tie Rod Inners - Moog - EV800938 $66 Tie Rod Outers - Moog - ES800948 $54 Lower Control Arms - Moog - CK620889 Moog - CK620888 $326 Upper Control Arms - Superlift Reflex 2 - 3.50" $280 0.25" Wheel Spacers - Aluminum Wheel Spacer $30 (just in case) Coil Spring Insulators Lower - GM GENUINE - 20841899 $11 Coil Spring Insulators Upper - GM GENUINE - 84061243 $33 Sway Bar Links - Dorman - SL90175RD $20 Total - $1,436 plus tax and shipping

Appreciate the info. A few additional clarifying questions. When your are comparing the ride quality between the Bilstein 5100 and stock with the Bilstein being stiffer does that comparison include the stock shock in the 2.5" spacer lift setup? This is the Eibach Shock you are referring to Eibach E60-23-006-03-10, correct? Same scenario here remove the lower RC strut spacer and install these at the 2" lift setting, correct? This would be the rear shock to go with it. Eibach E60-23-006-03-10 I saw those Superlift UCA and they caught my eye, but they state for (14-18 Silverado 1500 w/ Stock Cast Steel Control Arms). Thought I had this straight in my head, but here our my current OE UCA's will the Superlift ones work? In regards to the comment about aftermarket is always < OE. I got 125k out of my OE ball joints at the poor angle caused by the lift. Would you recommend going with OE again or going to aftermarket ones improving the angle even if the ball joints themselves might be < OE quality? Does the Bilstein 4600 come in the 2" lift version? Or am I overthinking this whole lifted strut vs RC strut spacer scenario? Thanks for the description and pics of the removal of the RC strut spacer. Can't wait to fight that battle

Looked over quite a few threads with good info on this. Wanted to run it by the group here to see if I was on the right track with components I plan to replace on my truck suspension. Truck has almost 125k miles on it now. Put on the Rough Country 2.5" budget level kit when the truck was new. Lower strut spacer, upper 0.5" strut spacer in the front and 2" block in the rear. Put on Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/70R18 (33x11.2) at that same time on the stock 18" wheels. Tires have a little bit of life left, but at over 120k on them I am looking to get a new set and want to get the suspension components replaced prior to this. I plan to go with a HT 265/70R18 tire and not E rated. Let the flaming begin 8years ago I wanted the look now I want more of the comfort and MPG back as the truck rarely tows or goes off road now. However, I do not want to go back to stock ride height I just couldn't live with myself if I did that. Still want to maintain close to that 2.5" and level look that I have now. Nothing is completely worn out on the suspension components. Not getting noise or any noticeable vibrations or movement. After 125k with the 2.5 lift the stock ball joints held up well. Here is what I am planning to change out prior to the new tires. Again goal is to replace the old components, tighten the feel back up, and provide a little smoother ride for the highway. The truck has the stamped steel control arms. Front Shocks - BILSTEIN 24336895 - B8 5100 Rear Shocks - BILSTEIN 24285896 - B8 5100 Tie Rod Inner - MOOG EV800938 Tie Rod Outer - MOOG ES800948 Lower Control Arms - Moog CK620889 Upper Control Arms - Rough Country 2.5" - 3" Forged UCA Tires - Falken Wildpeak H/T02 - 265/70R18 (32.6x10.6) (around 0.4" shorter, 0.6" narrower, 19lbs lighter than current) My main questions: On the front shock if I understand it right I remove the RC lower strut spacer and just run the Bilstein strut at the highest 1.85 - 2" setting. It replaces the spacer and gives back some shock travel improving ride quality. The top 0.5" plate spacer will remain. Giving somewhere around 2.35 - 2.5" total lift which is right about where I was On the back shock I am keeping the 2" RC block and just plan to change out the stock shock with this new one that is designed for a 2" lift. Are there height settings for the rear shock? If so what height should I set these at? UCA - I had no issues with my stock UCA and the angle that it was at with the lift. However, I figured if I need new joints and bushings I might as well change out the entire arm and correct the angle. Is this the right direction on this? The RC appears to work with my truck originally having the stamped UCA. It is stating to run stock wheel offset a .25" spacer is required. Not thrilled with this idea, but was hoping with the narrower tire I may not need this. I do get a slight rub on the stock UCA at full lock with the current 33x11.2" tires. Anyone see a better direction to go on this. Trying to keep it decent quality on a budget. With tires its around $2,300 for the components. Get the worn components replaced, get some ride quality back, and increase some MPG in the process. Any while you are in there items I should think about while its torn apart?