PTENEBRU

RedLT. As far as lights I have the M&R 40” light bar mounted in the grill, a 20” Strands Dark Knight Nuuk lower in the grill, Strands Siberia QB Cube lights (ditch lights) on Putco brackets, and Strands ‘Raptor’ style marker lights. Everything is wired to an Auxbeam AR800RGB 8 switch controller. I did the installs myself. Nothing that complicated but I didn’t want to make any holes in the truck that would be noticeable if I removed anything. It’s been raining for 2 days and think there’s another 5 coming so I’ll post pics as soon as I can take them. Marker lights - these were $65 for a 3 pack. They can change from amber to white. Definitely worth it if you like that look. Super easy to install. I have the white and amber leads wired to 2 different switches on the Aux beam and tied into the marker lights built into the 20” light bar and cube lights so I can turn them all on at once, either yellow or white. Cube/Ditch lights - Putco brackets are a little expensive but they are nice and made the job super easy. I love these little cube lights. They are built well and the pair is under $160. They have a wide patten that’s super bright and really light up a wide area. Def recommend these. Dark knight 20” NUUK: This is a nice light, definitely light the look. The way I mounted it makes it difficult to adjust and it’s pointing 20 feet in front of the truck. Can’t really comment on the performance yet until I adjust it. I know it should have been done by know. M&R 40” light bar: This was $329 from M&R. I mainly purchased this because of the bracket system. It bolts right up and allows height adjustment for different grills. Taking the entire front bumper cover off to install it is easier than it seems. Just need to be careful and have several of those plastic trim removal tools. I did break a couple of the plastic clips on the wheel well moulding so good to have those on hand. The second time I had to take the bumper cover off (dealing with the shutter issue) it took under 25 minutes. I think the M&R bar would be better but the light is mounted pretty far back from the grill and the AT4 grill blocks quite a bit of the bar. I was expecting it to be better and I should have thought about the grill design before ordering it. I think if installed on a different truck with a less restrictive grill it would work really well. I also think if it wasn’t mounted so far back from the grill that would help as well. M&R customer service is great. I emailed them on a Saturday and they called my back in under 30 minutes. I also recommend the Auxbeam. I know there are much better pro grade switches out there but this suits my needs as I’m not driving through streams or competing in Baja anytime soon. It definitely made the install much easier and cleaner wiring everything to the panel under the hood. I initially purchased all the Strands lights from Brightsource in Canada. I couldn’t find any of retailer in the US. The first 20” bar I got was damaged (not the fault of Brightsource). So I returned it. Then it was out of stock with no ETA. I then ordered from https://www.lumise.eu/. I was a little nervous ordering from Finland and thought the shipping would be crazy but they charged me 225 euros for the 20” light and only 19 euros for shipping. It came in under a week. The same light bar at Brightsource was $352. I recommend sourcing from lumise if you can’t find stateside. They have many other lights but not sure how competitive the pricing is on the other brands. I’ll try to get you some pics and LMK if you have any other questions. https://strandseurope.com/product/dark-knight-nuuk-20-led-bar/ https://strandseurope.com/product/siberia-qbqube-light-work-light-led/ https://brightsource.ca/product/super-slim-marker-light-amber-white-s20sm4aw/ https://www.putco.com/product/luminix-custom-hood-mounting-brackets/v/GMC/Sierra 1500/2022/ https://mandronline.com/products/2020-gmc-sierra-2500hd-single-40in-light-bar?variant=42887110361248 https://auxbeam.com/products/ar-800-multifunction-rgb-switch-panel-system-qp008526-1

Thanks redwngr. Yes using DMAX LM2.

Thanks for the replies. Didn’t see any wires pinched. I loosened the light bar brackets and re-torqued. Took each shutter off, lubed the mechanisms with silicone lube, and reseated them. Never had an issue since.

I have a 2022 GMC Sierra AT4 with the 3.0 LM2 and an idash. Does anyone have an issue where the DPF RG % (which I believe is DPF Regen Trigger in the gauge selection menu) is blank. This also impacts the DPFDIS and DPFTIM which I assume is calculated off the same data. When I first start the truck all the above parameters display correctly but in under 60 sec they all go blank (actually display ‘—‘). If I unplug the iDash and plug it back into the OBB port they display again and they disappear. What really strange is that a couple times I did this and they remained on for my entire 60 min trip. This was happening with iDash 1.24 firmware. I called Banks and they sent me firmware version 1.24.7 but nothing changed. For some reason the DPF Soot Level % does display. Does anyone else have this issue? I did have some other iDash related questions: 1. Are the DPF soot level % and DPF RG % the same parameter? and the only difference is one has a decimal place that never displays to that accuracy? They seem to be the same but it confuses me why one displays constantly and the other displays ‘- -‘ after 60 seconds or so. 2. Is there no parameter for oil pressure? I know there’s a gauge on the trucks dash that only has values for 0 and 120. My oil pressure sits at about 25% on the gauge (~30psi) at idle which I guess is normal from what other posted. 3. Is it normal for the soot level to rise at different rates between regens? For example I drive about 30 miles to work. A regen kicked in about 5 miles in. Probably took 11-12 minutes The regen stopped and the soot level read 16%. Then it displayed 0%. By the time I got to my work it read 26%. I didn’t track the miles after the regen but it couldn’t have been more than 20 miles. Drove another 30 miles home and the soot level read 46%. At this rate the regen would take place at 100-120 miles. However my regens typically happen in the 375-450 mile range. The DPFDIS (distance between regens) currently reads 448 miles. Is the sensor or iDash just that inaccurate or is it some type of scaling issue. I feel like it raises really fast right after a regen and as it get’s closer to 100% it raises slower. Just curious if anyone else experienced this and if this is just normal. The truck is running fine and haven’t had any issues.

So I recently added 2 light bars to the inside of my grill on my 2022 refreshed GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with 3.0 Duramax. To install them I had to remove the upper Bumper cover and grill. I did not disconnect any wiring or remove/disconnect the active shutter system. One of the light bars in the 40” M&R system. It comes with brackets that attach via factory bolts and allows the bar to slide up and down to position in the grill. The other light is a 20” Dark Knight Nuuk from Strands lighting which I mounted lower in the grill. See attached pictures. I buttoned everything up and the check engine light came on. P059F code which is Active Shutter Performance. The code appears 5-15 minutes after driving. I cleared it several times and it comes back. On a previous generation truck I read that this code is thrown when the motor/shutters are restricted and the motor senses a current change. I checked multiple times and nothing is touching the shutters. Neither bars or wires. Nothing jammed. I’m at a loss. I was thinking these some type of air flow sensor I missed and somehow the lights are impacting airflow and throwing the code. The shutters appear to work because sometimes they are open and sometimes they are closed. I was concerned about the truck overheating but the factory coolant temp is slightly south of half way. My iDash has three coolant temperature gauges and they read between 210-225 after driving for awhile. Any ideas what to do here. I feel I’m going to have to pull the lights, clear the code, and see if it returns. if it does I’ll have to take it to the dealer as it’s still under factory warranty. I really hate to pull the lights and deal with the dealer so any other thoughts would be much appreciated. And if anyone knows when these shutters open and close I’d love to know. I’m wondering if I should wait till they open and pull the disconnect the harness vs. leaving it plugged in and risk it staying closed when it should be open. I’m not sure these shutters are for aero purposes. it seems having the air go through the grill and being met by a wall of plastic is less aerodynamic than leaving them open and letting the air pass through and escape.