jblakeney

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I ran into a trailblazer a few years ago, that had the ABS pump running. It was barely noticeable audibly. It too had a stuck brake caliper. Also, had drove the owner nuts, he had replaced all 4 calipers. He had it towed to my shop. Upon initial viewing of the truck on my lift. I noted left and right calipers were reversed on front and rear, bleeder screws go atop the caliper not on the bottom. I had everything in working condition and sliding freely. Pressed the brakes without the truck running never could get it to stick. For some reason I cranked the truck on the lift and had somebody in the cab pressing the brakes for me. I noticed I felt a small vibration on the lines leading from the ABS, continued to feel around and found the pump was running. Pulled the fuse it quit put it back the brakes stuck, pulled it they worked. After several rounds of that, I decided the module must be the cause. I don't remember the complete diagnostics, as its been a few years. I do remember the pump was bad, and possibly the whole ABS module and hydraulic body. I DO REMEMBER THE brake fluid was BLACK with a rust tint. I blamed the rust as the culprit. As far as the 2 rubber hose looking pieces (obo 1inch long) on each front caliper. They stick inside the caliper pin bore, cushioning the caliper pin. They should be pushed fully into the caliper pin bore. Then the rubber boot installed. Then the pin lubricated and installed on the vehicle.

I always sell the longer plug wires. I have the number on a post it note at work taped to my monitor. I don't even ask, thats just what you get.

And the oil use or lack-there of continues.... Does it burn oil or not. To make a good impression you would have to have a mandated poll of EVERY GM owner. There are to many lazy people in the world to think somebody with a truck that doesn't burn oil will waste there time voting. OR, the dealership said it was normal, so whats the point. You would need to know the Year, RPO, Disabled or not, service records, driving habits, and a BUNCH of other goodies to make a judgement. And you should always judge the oil level from the STICK...... Its hard to determine how much oil you actually get out. Way TO MANY variables can exist here if measuring in containers used for packaging oil. Your filter holds oil inside it takes days to completely drain (and usually you have to keep rotating it) or you would need to cut it open..... Not to mention if you DON'T change your own oil (like most American), you have no clue if you use oil or not until the ID 10 T lamp comes on and says MORON add oil before you burn me up... If you take your vehicle somewhere to have the oil changed that is fine and dandy. At least you remember to do that. To the people that actually regularly check levels, I commend you. My 99 doesn't burn oil..... I would like a new truck but.... the cards have been dealt. Would I buy a new GM or will I swap back to Ford. IDK. I like my GM product but I must say somethings make me wonder why.......... I do like the oil filter pointing straight down..... Call any GM dealers service department ask them about oil consumption. And its like trying to whip an octopus..... No matter where you swing at there is a hand grabbing the whip. I have stated my opinion about oil consumptions before and heard the same line...... Seems to me as if something causes oil consumption in newer GM trucks.... and select new GM cars. Jbo As usual a RANT........

My 1995 Blazer had 250k on it.... They'd never been changed....... I greased them every 3k... and washed them out every 6k and re-greased. My 99 made it till 07 (i think i forget but it was over 150k, they were not my problem, i forgot the intermediate shafts would make racket, changed everything in the front end then remembered it). Jbo

Try the intermediate steering shaft.... Known problem with GMT-800's........ A couple years ago, I changed everything out from under the front end of my 99... less the rack and pinion and the coil springs. Only to still have my same noise.... I couple weeks later it dawned on me.... This was the same noise I was having right after I bought the truck and they had replaced the intermediate shaft and it quit..... So I got a new one put it in and my noise was gone..... Lesson learned. I spent 1200 bucks on the suspension front and rear..... Then 90 bucks on a new shaft, which fixed my rattle I was having in the first placed (why I changed all that stuff out). Jbo

I have dealt with gremlins like this before... If it has been on a rack and had work that caused it, to say on the rack (lift) for an extended period of time (transmission, differential, etc, etc) Aka. it spent the night lifted in the air. Simple quick thing is to loosen control arm bolt nuts (slightly). All 4 four on one side. Then re-torque them. Do not lift the truck to do this. Leave the wheel on the ground. This will allow the bushings to creep around and get out of a bind. Which can cause front end noise.... Sometimes when you have front end work they wait till it is on the line up machine to tighten everything because if the suspension is not loaded by the weight of the vehicle when you do this it will cause noise when you let it down. Because it has the bushings tight at the wrong level and your over stretching the bushings. Ball Joints on GMT-900's seem to be a hot topic. And a frequent problem, for some people. Tie Rods will make noise when they are near the end of service life. Doubt full at 62k they are toast. Body bushings will do this also as mentioned above. Loosen and re torque. In my experience spraying grease or oil on bushings only amplifies noise problems... I have never found it to fix a squeak... Only thing I remember grease keeping from squeaking is poly urethane bushings. Jbo

What in the world are you hauling in there to weigh that much? Our camper is 32 ft bumper to tongue, and with the whole family (of 5) and our stuff loaded we're at about the same weight. "combined weight" Truck, trailer, gear, gas, LP, etc.....

Quite impressive...... How was that party? Jbo i dont remember Judging from the cargo..... Memory absents is to be expected... Looks like it was quite the party... Jbo

Quite impressive...... How was that party? Jbo

Here ya go. I finally remembered to take some pictures... 29ft Goose neck Kubota M7950 Tractor with bucket 13000lbs Pulls like a dream...... Hardly know its behind the truck...... Only thing that reminds you is the 6.0 talking a bit.... Jbo

yes i'm going to pick up a 5.3 from a police tahoe in july Nice.... keep us posted dude... LS1 are perfect transplant motors.... Jbo

I finally found these pictures...... Not my handy work... But I got them in an email a couple years ago...... I was restoring a back file at work and it had a dbx file in it..... Opened up that file toooooo found it....... Notice this guy is from UTAH and not from Mississippi.... Pretty handy work thou..... But NO WAY would I have done that. Picture one First Generation S10 Blazer, with the travel trailer attached up. Picture two Notice mounting ....... of the Reese Goose neck hitch. Bolt to tailgate with 2 bolts and bolt to body with 2 bolts. Spring for the heavy grade 5/16 chain and 2 S hooks. Also 2 grade 2 bolts, nuts and washers...... Picture three notice the 4x4 and 2x4 bracing under the tailgate. It is required to drill 2 hook holes in the tailgate! So it is not a "No Drill Installation". Happy Towing..... Jbo

Not my truck but GM truck none the less...... Too bad Toyota fans.... Yes, that would be a CHEVY pulling the TOYOTA racing trailer!!!! I saw these pictures a year ago or so. Googled and found them again... Jbo

Priceless dude..... Jbo

3rd picture is VERY interesting...... Jbo

Just a greater load induced on the engine. No worries......... My 2500 with 22k behind it you learn noises quite well. Thank you, I feel much better now. I was a little concerned but everything else seemed alright. Towing with this thing for the first time and it was a 2000 mile trip. Turned out just fine. Haha, try this...... Round hay bails on goose neck trailer with; 4x2 wide on the base of the flat of the trailer. 3x2 on the top of the 4x2 pile. One on the neck of the trailer and one on the dove tail tieing everything together. So if you were adding that up that is 8+6+1+1=16 bales. OBO 1750lb each...... that is 28000lbs plus the trailer..... You learn about torque and electric trailer brakes...... I did that ONE TIME with my buddies trailer.... His trailer is 108inch by 26 or 28 (foot) can not remember how long exactly my trailer is 108inX24ft......... No, problems the old 6.0L just said aight..... Transmission said can you swap me out for an allison....... But did it anyways....... I need a 6.6 and an allison trannnie in my 2500.... Jbo

I have never heard a odd noise outta my 4l80e..... Its a 2001 2500....... And I tow well over the manual suggested weight. All I hear is that 6.0 under the hood sayn...... OH YEAH!!!!, I finally get to breath to my fullest..... As it tach up towards in the RPM band.. Jbo

My 2000 Suburban was doing this and I had a very good shop in Denver look at it and they said the tranny was fine. They suggested I check the TPS. I replaced the TPS and it fixed it instantly. On another note. I've noticed recently when towing (first time towing with this truck) there is a definite change in tone when going up hills. The RPM doesn't move, the speed will hold but the engine sounds like it's...making more power? Does that make sense? If the hill is long or steep enough it will downshift, but before it does it will go thru this tonal change. Almost like I can hear the throttle opening more. Just wondering what it is. Thanks! Just a greater load induced on the engine. No worries......... My 2500 with 22k behind it you learn noises quite well. Direct swap, just better parts! Why not go with a 4l80? Doesn't that involve a crossmember mod? or is the 4L80E also a direct swap? NOPE it's not bolt up. Cross member is farther back and trannie case is quite a bit longer. So you will need a new drive shaft. Jbo

uhhhhh a BEER GUY!!! Consider that position filled!! Jbo

Any chance you have the ABS codes?????? Cxxxx.................. Could be the control module Jbo

on my 99 1500nbs their is NO hole to get to the adjuster..... you have to take the rotor off..... same on my 01 2500nbs I have had problems with my 99's ebrake since i got it up until last year..... I ended up buying the pedal assy, all cables, adjusters, rotors, pads, and new shoes.... it finally pissed me off last year... I changed everything...... it works great now.... When I purchased it the brake did NOT HOLD at all, service department adjusted the cable where it goes from 1 cable to 2 cables (didnt work) jbo