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compulynx

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compulynx last won the day on August 16 2012

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  1. UPDATE! Gruven now has just the motor for the actuators available. You can now disassemble the lock and replace the piece of crap motor for 25 bux! http://www.gruvenparts.com/2008-2013-gm-door-lock-actuator-rebuild/ Compulynx
  2. Sorry I just saw this. You are right, it is a short pulse, not constant. But you really need a needle meter to test with. That fluke autorange is not ranging quick enough to be helpful. Sometimes, older technology works best. C
  3. First. you apparently do not have the meter set on the proper voltage since you are getting OL (Over voltage). Are you sure you got the leads plugged in to the correct DC ports on the meter? Like I said, the right combo will give a +12v reading when the switch is pushed one way, and a -12v reading the other way. C
  4. It is a simple reversal of polarity. There is no ground needed. To lock you have +12 at one lead and ground at the other. To Unlock, the polarity simply is reversed! C
  5. The remote start works just fine with the aftermarket actuators. The fix I posted actually still actuates the old lock and all associated wiring. That is the cool thing about it. C
  6. Update on source for actuators. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-Door-Lock-Actuator-SET-6-BEST-/160607339787?_trksid=e17002.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1515134326369811245&_qi=RTM759771
  7. Ok. Here is a $5 fix for your 2008 and up crap china made door locks that half work or just quit working. I am assuming you have enough mechanical ability to remove the door panel, but if not, there are instructions on this site on doing that. This mod also should work on Tahoes and Burbs, but I can not say 100% it will. First, you will need one of these. Yes, it is a cheap china made lock actuator, but hey, so is the one GM put in your vehicle. http://www.amazon.co..._auto_ai_ps_t_2 Now. What you are going to do is mount the new actuator BEHIND the door panel in the position shown. This is a little closer shot. Be sure that the actuator clears the hole in the panel so the panel cover lock can snap in. If you look, the hole is midway between the motor on the actuator and the upper mounting hole. Remember, it goes BEHIND that panel, I am just showing it outside the panel for reference. Here is a shot of the actuator installed inside the panel. Just mark the 2 mounting hole locations, and drill the holes. The actuator should be vertical to the door. Next, the actuator comes with a rod and a clamp. Remove the lower rubber plug shown and reach up and slip the clamp on the lock rod. Then slip the new actuator rod into the clamp. (If you need to slightly bend the rod to make it parrallel with the lock rod, that is fine) Adding a drop of blue loctite on the adjusting screws is a good idea. At this point, I used an external 12 v source to actuate the lock and adjust it properly. You can do that or wait till you have it wired in the truck harness. The original lock has a connector the has some small wires, but 2 thicker wires. These 2 wires are the actuator power. On mine, they were green and yellow. (See photo-sorry about the out of focus) The actuator just works 2 ways, so if it works backwards, just swap these 2 wires. I also left enough wire on the original connector to resplice if GM ever decides to fix these crap locks. I also drilled a small hole in the panel and used a zip tie to hold the new wiring away from the window as it slides down. Here is the installed actuator working. It sounds loud, but after the panel was replaced, it was no louder than any of the other locks. It takes a few seconds for tthe video to load. http://www.eworldz.com/truck/vid1.mp4 So GM, take you $100 locks and shove 'em..... C
  8. Ok. Here is a $5 fix for your 2008 and up crap china made door locks that half work or just quit working. I am assuming you have enough mechanical ability to remove the door panel, but if not, there are instructions on this site on doing that. This mod also should work on Tahoes and Burbs, but I can not say 100% it will. First, you will need one of these. Yes, it is a cheap china made lock actuator, but hey, so is the one GM put in your vehicle. http://www.amazon.co..._auto_ai_ps_t_2 Now. What you are going to do is mount the new actuator BEHIND the door panel in the position shown. This is a little closer shot. Be sure that the actuator clears the hole in the panel so the panel cover lock can snap in. If you look, the hole is midway between the motor on the actuator and the upper mounting hole. Remember, it goes BEHIND that panel, I am just showing it outside the panel for reference. Here is a shot of the actuator installed inside the panel. Just mark the 2 mounting hole locations, and drill the holes. The actuator should be vertical to the door. Next, the actuator comes with a rod and a clamp. Remove the lower rubber plug shown and reach up and slip the clamp on the lock rod. Then slip the new actuator rod into the clamp. (If you need to slightly bend the rod to make it parrallel with the lock rod, that is fine) Adding a drop of blue loctite on the adjusting screws is a good idea. At this point, I used an external 12 v source to actuate the lock and adjust it properly. You can do that or wait till you have it wired in the truck harness. The original lock has a connector the has some small wires, but 2 thicker wires. These 2 wires are the actuator power. On mine, they were green and yellow. (See photo-sorry about the out of focus) The actuator just works 2 ways, so if it works backwards, just swap these 2 wires. I also left enough wire on the original connector to resplice if GM ever decides to fix these crap locks. I also drilled a small hole in the panel and used a zip tie to hold the new wiring away from the window as it slides down. Here is the installed actuator working. It sounds loud, but after the panel was replaced, it was no louder than any of the other locks. It takes a few seconds for tthe video to load. http://www.eworldz.com/truck/vid1.mp4 So GM, take you $100 locks and shove 'em..... C
  9. Did it! $5 fix for the locks. Pics and instructions coming! Only requires drilling 2 small holes in door under panel cover to mount external lock actuator. Do not even have to remove lock. Splice 2 wires and your lock works like new for $5. GM even has a rubber plug in the hole to adjust it...LOL C
  10. Holy crap! And I thought there were a few problems listed on here about these locks! http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f206d4b/0 Looks like this is a really bad problem. But of course, GM will act like they never had an issue with it. C
  11. I have been thinking this one over. I may or may not get any joy from GM over these shoddy locks, but i think I have come up with a solution for those of you who are handy with basic metal fab work. I found these... http://www.amazon.co..._auto_ai_ps_t_2 Now, I was looking at the door locks that have the internal solenoid built in to the lock mechanism. There is a nylon arm that operates the rod going to the manual lock button. Now on this triangular piece of plastic, there is an EXTRA hole. One of these little actuators could easily be mounted to the original lock and the 2 wires that go to the internal piece of crap actuator can be simply wired to the external one. The nice thing is you could do all 4 doors for under 20 bux. As it looks like the other 3 will fail soon from what I am reading, this may be an alternative. I will post pics if and when I do this mod. The nice thing about doing it this way would be that the internal solenoid would still be actuated, so if there are any safety switches or warning switches in the lock, they would all still work. Oh, and do not go on about how these may not be quality actuators. I mean, what kind of quality are the ones we are having issues with? And I too am wondering about the safety issue here. I mean, you think you are locked up and one of these fail, and a child opens the door, or someone comes in your door at a red light. Scary.... C
  12. I have a 2008 GMC Sierra VIN # 3GTEK13J08G264725 that has this same issue. Truck only has 25,000 miles on it ( use it camping only) and the RH front lock has slowly failed. Same issue as others, it worked sometimes then quit. You can see the lock trying to move up and down but after a few tries, quits completly even moving. My dealer is Jerry Kelly in Adel, Georgia. Truck is out of time warranty, but these locks are failing everywhere seems like. Just bad parts I assume. The lock is easy to replace(for me it is anyway) , just would like help on the replacement part. Thanks in advance for any help in this matter. C
  13. LOL, I think I would have just traded trucks.... Good deal on keeping after them until you got it worked out. C
  14. I like white. But, there is nothing that gets my heart pumping more than looking at a nice bronzed bodywith some well placed curves. Silver Birch Metallic FTW! C
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